PCV / T.O.B. q's (Plus some others)

Red95_5Oh · January 8th, 2011, 09:14 AM

Hi guys,

Long time no post missed ya!

Well my problem is my car is running lean according the my smog guy. He said it was either my PCV, MAF, or maybe CATs?? So I bought a new PCV valve from monument car parts (I live in the east bay area of Cali) and I pop the hood and looked around and could not find it. I hopped on here find a picture with an arrow pointing to the area Appear to be on the back side of the engine closer to the driver side. But I can not find it? Can some one tell me what hose to follow? Also is there where I stick the seafoam in? Do I need any special tools or anything? Also how else can I tell if my car is running lean? Spark plugs yes? Any way to do it on the fly?

Also I just got a promotion (For lack of a better word) at my job and I have added about 30 miles to my commute each way (went from 2 miles and four stop lights). So I am planning on tunning up my car plugs wires and the such. I have posted this like 5000000000000 times and I can never find the fakin thread. What is the most reliable TOB there is? I am basically planning on blowing all of my return (2k??) on car parts and such.

I want better MPGs (LuLz). Any ideas what else I should do besides the basic tune up? I have a CAI already. I have cats on my exhaust which is stock. I plan to change my muffs out too since I blew out a baffle in one of them.

Also I have a slight surge when I start my car at night (I work grave yard) when its balls frozen cold outside (30ish). It jumps about 250-350 rmps. Also I have this weird ass stalling problem (when the car is warm or cold driven 100 miles or just warming up) (its a 5 speed btw). Like when I go to make a 3 point turn and i throw it in reverse (clutch in) it kinda just dies... quitley just shuts off. Fires right up and sometimes it does it 3 times in a row. Like after it dies I will turn it on put it in gear and just about to start moving it will just take a nap. I figure it either my clutch isnt doing its job all the way or my fuel pump is on the way out. I have changed my fuel filter. I will buy a fuel pressure gauge one day soon if I must since I do believe thats the only way to test my fuel pump. Also is the stock fuel pump electric? Like the annoying bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz type?

Well I do thank you guys for reading all of this as I am at work and pretty fin bored.

Also do you guys have any suggested online retailers (or local ones if you live in the bay area).

Also depending on how bad my clutch is (Disk and such) as I don't know when its been changed (144k on the clock I assume atlesat once) I may change that too. Do you guys have any suggestions on clutches (kits?). I wont be adding any power adders or anything. I am going to keep it stock (engine).

Cobraman1024 · January 12th, 2011, 10:03 PM

wow dude, one or two related questions at a time. This might be why I'm the first to answer your questions 4 days after you started this thread lol........

first, a replacement clutch. A King Cobra clutch by Valeo (the OEM manufacturer of the Mustang clutch) can be had for about $170 for a clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool. Check out some of the online retailers for this. The FRPP King Cobra clutch is exactly the same clutch, just packaged in a Ford Racing box ------- so don't fall for the upwards of $70 price increase just because it says Ford Racing in the description.

second, best throwout bearing. The part number N1714 throwout bearing from CenterForce, hands down the most reliable bearing I've ever used. About $40 shipped from Summit Racing or any other online retailer last time I bought one. Make sure your clutch cable is properly adjusted once you've installed the new bearing---this could be why you've had such bad luck with them. Pull up on your clutch pedal until you feel it click, this means its properly adjusted.

Your stalling problem could be the fuel pump or Idle Air control Valve, also known as IAC. One other thing that could be causing it (depending on whether or not the car is very difficult to restart) would be the sensor inside the distributor. Yes the stock fuel pump is electric. If it buzzes when you turn the key to start, then its working---attach a cheap gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail to check fuel pressure at idle. Should be about 32psi with the vac line connected to the fuel pressure regulator, 38-40 with the vac line disconnected.

The PCV is located at the very back of the lower intake. While you are back there, also change out the small filter that is directly beneath the PCV valve. Latemodelrestoration.com sells a kit with both the PCV valve and the small filter. You can get the individual parts cheaper from NAPA or Autozone or Advance Auto Parts though. No special tools are needed to use SeaFoam, just have the engine running and allow the PCV to suck up the fluid from the SeaFoam can. Immediately after the last drop of SeaFoam fluid is sucked up by the PCV, shut the engine off for 15-30 minutes. Restart the engine and allow it to run until all of the smoke clears from the exhaust.

ryanw · January 13th, 2011, 01:18 AM

Wow.......i must have ADD cuz it was so hard to get through this thread,i kept losing my place and couldnt remember what i had just read, i wish i could help but im not reading that thing again

Red95_5Oh · January 14th, 2011, 02:59 PM

Originally Posted by ryanw

Wow.......i must have ADD cuz it was so hard to get through this thread,i kept losing my place and couldnt remember what i had just read, i wish i could help but im not reading that thing again

Sorry guys about the ADHD and stuff. I work graveyard at Kinkos alone soo i get bored sometimes... and well this happened to be one of those times haha! Well i do appreciate you helpin me out.

You know I've been looking for that stupid valve since I posted this thread and dear god I can not freakin find the ##%!@!@!!!!!!! Maybe I am just blind and retarded??? I will find it one day! I will get that filter also I did not think of that.

Bullet points (With out the bullets):

-Where is the PCV Valve? (Pictures yes?)
-I am tunning up my car any ideas besides the normal tune up? (Plugs, wires, filters, fluids, etc)
-TOB on the way out
-Might do my clutch too
-Car stalls but fires RIGHT back up

Again sorry I just like to be as detailed as possible... guess I was to detailed eh?

Cobraman1024 · January 14th, 2011, 10:03 PM

this is a link to the kit from Late Model Restoration:

1986-95 Mustang 5.0L Pcv Valve Kit With Screen, Grommet, And Pcv Valve by Ford at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

This is a picture of the lower intake: 1986 - 1993 MUSTANG 5.0L COBRA EFI INTAKE MANIFOLD SET Parts - DragTimes.com

Looking at that picture, the lower intake is on the RIGHT side. The "north" end of the lower intake is the front. The "south" end is the back. See that hole that is centered in the "south" end of the lower intake (because of the lighting it looks like a Ying Yang)? It looks almost as big in diameter as the 8 large holes in the middle of the intake? that is the hole where your PCV mounts. Grab the black hose that leads to the hole and pop out your PCV. There will be a black rubber grommet too. Now grab a small hook tool and push it down into that hole, fish around a little and try to hook onto that small PCV screen so that you can pull it up and out of the PCV hole.
I swear, if you can't get it from those instructions, please take your car to a shop have someone else work on it

Red95_5Oh · January 15th, 2011, 12:53 PM

Originally Posted by Cobraman1024

this is a link to the kit from Late Model Restoration:

1986-95 Mustang 5.0L Pcv Valve Kit With Screen, Grommet, And Pcv Valve by Ford at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

This is a picture of the lower intake: 1986 - 1993 MUSTANG 5.0L COBRA EFI INTAKE MANIFOLD SET Parts - DragTimes.com

Looking at that picture, the lower intake is on the RIGHT side. The "north" end of the lower intake is the front. The "south" end is the back. See that hole that is centered in the "south" end of the lower intake (because of the lighting it looks like a Ying Yang)? It looks almost as big in diameter as the 8 large holes in the middle of the intake? that is the hole where your PCV mounts. Grab the black hose that leads to the hole and pop out your PCV. There will be a black rubber grommet too. Now grab a small hook tool and push it down into that hole, fish around a little and try to hook onto that small PCV screen so that you can pull it up and out of the PCV hole.
I swear, if you can't get it from those instructions, please take your car to a shop have someone else work on it

I swear dude, I am not as dumb as i sound...

Cobraman1024 · January 15th, 2011, 09:23 PM

Originally Posted by Red95_5Oh

I swear dude, I am not as dumb as i sound...

I'm not saying you are.........some people are just not mechanically inclined and/or are not familiar enough with engines.
Soooooo, did ya find it?

Red95_5Oh · January 16th, 2011, 01:19 AM

I didn't check it out today. To damn tired after work. But I will probably checj it out monday or or something.

Red95_5Oh · January 23rd, 2011, 02:13 PM

is the 93 intake the same as the 94-95?

AdderMk2 · January 23rd, 2011, 03:04 PM

no

Red95_5Oh · January 24th, 2011, 04:25 AM

Originally Posted by AdderMk2

no

Ok so pinche gotta take off the upper intake mani then cause i could barley get my hand to the pcv which is under under the upper on the lower intake deep in the middle....

-________________-

Everett · January 24th, 2011, 06:23 AM

A cai will cost you fuel mileage.... Put seafoam in the brake booster vacuum line. Ford makes a great tob.....

Cobraman1024 · January 24th, 2011, 08:54 AM

Originally Posted by Everett

A cai will cost you fuel mileage.... Put seafoam in the brake booster vacuum line. Ford makes a great tob.....

Putting it through the brake booster line will only allow the seafoam to get to one part of the top of the engine; seafoam needs to be put through the pcv hose so that it will get to the injectors and combustion chambers by a more direct route

Cobraman1024 · January 24th, 2011, 09:02 AM

Originally Posted by Red95_5Oh

Ok so pinche gotta take off the upper intake mani then cause i could barley get my hand to the pcv which is under under the upper on the lower intake deep in the middle....

-________________-

Unless you've got paws the size of Shrek, you definitely should not need to remove the upper intake to get to the pcv hose and valve. By removing it you will have to replace the upper to lower intake gasket at least. Grasp the rubber hose leading behind the intake and pull up. When you feel it pull loose, rotate the hose untill you can see the pcv sticking out of the bottom. If you hear a rattle the pcv is good, try to reach in the hole of the lower intake with a hook and pull out the pcv filter.

Red95_5Oh · January 24th, 2011, 11:43 AM

well my hose is fraked up for sure... its barley hangin on it and is severally warn. I know that i will have to replace the gaskets and stuff but hey fak it i dont have any friends so auh might as well work on my car.. thanks for the help. The picture you posted tho confused the hell out of at first till i noticed it was the wrong year. I do appreciate the help everyone. Mission almost accomplished.

Red95_5Oh · January 24th, 2011, 11:43 AM

oh and i ended up turning down the promotion so I am getting some new rear end gears btw =) 3.73's prob.

Red95_5Oh · January 28th, 2011, 02:42 PM

ok so i am getting the recommend tob and such...

I am ordering 3.73s which pinche color gear should I get to correct the speedo?

Red95_5Oh · January 28th, 2011, 03:39 PM

Here are the part numbers i ordered:

CMB-06-0000
CTF-52010
CTF-N1714
RAM-BA50M

hope i did ok...

January 8th, 2011, 09:14 AM	#1
Red95_5Oh Regular 1995 GT 4Ever Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: C Town Posts: 170 iTrader: 0 reviews	PCV / T.O.B. q's (Plus some others) Hi guys, Long time no post missed ya! Well my problem is my car is running lean according the my smog guy. He said it was either my PCV, MAF, or maybe CATs?? So I bought a new PCV valve from monument car parts (I live in the east bay area of Cali) and I pop the hood and looked around and could not find it. I hopped on here find a picture with an arrow pointing to the area Appear to be on the back side of the engine closer to the driver side. But I can not find it? Can some one tell me what hose to follow? Also is there where I stick the seafoam in? Do I need any special tools or anything? Also how else can I tell if my car is running lean? Spark plugs yes? Any way to do it on the fly? Also I just got a promotion (For lack of a better word) at my job and I have added about 30 miles to my commute each way (went from 2 miles and four stop lights). So I am planning on tunning up my car plugs wires and the such. I have posted this like 5000000000000 times and I can never find the fakin thread. What is the most reliable TOB there is? I am basically planning on blowing all of my return (2k??) on car parts and such. I want better MPGs (LuLz). Any ideas what else I should do besides the basic tune up? I have a CAI already. I have cats on my exhaust which is stock. I plan to change my muffs out too since I blew out a baffle in one of them. Also I have a slight surge when I start my car at night (I work grave yard) when its balls frozen cold outside (30ish). It jumps about 250-350 rmps. Also I have this weird ass stalling problem (when the car is warm or cold driven 100 miles or just warming up) (its a 5 speed btw). Like when I go to make a 3 point turn and i throw it in reverse (clutch in) it kinda just dies... quitley just shuts off. Fires right up and sometimes it does it 3 times in a row. Like after it dies I will turn it on put it in gear and just about to start moving it will just take a nap. I figure it either my clutch isnt doing its job all the way or my fuel pump is on the way out. I have changed my fuel filter. I will buy a fuel pressure gauge one day soon if I must since I do believe thats the only way to test my fuel pump. Also is the stock fuel pump electric? Like the annoying bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz type? Well I do thank you guys for reading all of this as I am at work and pretty fin bored. Also do you guys have any suggested online retailers (or local ones if you live in the bay area). Also depending on how bad my clutch is (Disk and such) as I don't know when its been changed (144k on the clock I assume atlesat once) I may change that too. Do you guys have any suggestions on clutches (kits?). I wont be adding any power adders or anything. I am going to keep it stock (engine).

January 12th, 2011, 10:03 PM	#2
Cobraman1024 Enthusiast 1995 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Fall River, MA and Juffair, Bahrain Posts: 780 iTrader: 0 reviews	wow dude, one or two related questions at a time. This might be why I'm the first to answer your questions 4 days after you started this thread lol........ first, a replacement clutch. A King Cobra clutch by Valeo (the OEM manufacturer of the Mustang clutch) can be had for about $170 for a clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool. Check out some of the online retailers for this. The FRPP King Cobra clutch is exactly the same clutch, just packaged in a Ford Racing box ------- so don't fall for the upwards of $70 price increase just because it says Ford Racing in the description. second, best throwout bearing. The part number N1714 throwout bearing from CenterForce, hands down the most reliable bearing I've ever used. About $40 shipped from Summit Racing or any other online retailer last time I bought one. Make sure your clutch cable is properly adjusted once you've installed the new bearing---this could be why you've had such bad luck with them. Pull up on your clutch pedal until you feel it click, this means its properly adjusted. Your stalling problem could be the fuel pump or Idle Air control Valve, also known as IAC. One other thing that could be causing it (depending on whether or not the car is very difficult to restart) would be the sensor inside the distributor. Yes the stock fuel pump is electric. If it buzzes when you turn the key to start, then its working---attach a cheap gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail to check fuel pressure at idle. Should be about 32psi with the vac line connected to the fuel pressure regulator, 38-40 with the vac line disconnected. The PCV is located at the very back of the lower intake. While you are back there, also change out the small filter that is directly beneath the PCV valve. Latemodelrestoration.com sells a kit with both the PCV valve and the small filter. You can get the individual parts cheaper from NAPA or Autozone or Advance Auto Parts though. No special tools are needed to use SeaFoam, just have the engine running and allow the PCV to suck up the fluid from the SeaFoam can. Immediately after the last drop of SeaFoam fluid is sucked up by the PCV, shut the engine off for 15-30 minutes. Restart the engine and allow it to run until all of the smoke clears from the exhaust. __________________ 1995 SVT Cobra #182/4005, 275/305, 217k miles 1996 SVT Mystic Cobra #1666/2000, 267/263, 178k miles 1995 Mustang, 3.8L, 233k miles 1993 Mustang LX, 2.3L, T5 convert, 95 GT suspension swap, 03 Cobra steering rack, 250k miles sold: 1987 GT MM Military Crew Member MM+Cleavage member #21

January 13th, 2011, 01:18 AM	#3
ryanw I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1991 Ford Mustang GT Join Date: May 2007 Location: San Diego, California Posts: 6,063 iTrader: 0 reviews	Wow.......i must have ADD cuz it was so hard to get through this thread,i kept losing my place and couldnt remember what i had just read, i wish i could help but im not reading that thing again __________________ DART 331ci stroker, AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow R intake, Accufab 70mm tb, 75mm pro m Maf, 30lb injectors, jba headers, 2 1/2" x pipe flowmaster super 10 mufflers, 255 fuel pump, 3:27 gears

January 14th, 2011, 10:03 PM	#5
Cobraman1024 Enthusiast 1995 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Fall River, MA and Juffair, Bahrain Posts: 780 iTrader: 0 reviews	this is a link to the kit from Late Model Restoration: 1986-95 Mustang 5.0L Pcv Valve Kit With Screen, Grommet, And Pcv Valve by Ford at LRS - Same Day Shipping! This is a picture of the lower intake: 1986 - 1993 MUSTANG 5.0L COBRA EFI INTAKE MANIFOLD SET Parts - DragTimes.com Looking at that picture, the lower intake is on the RIGHT side. The "north" end of the lower intake is the front. The "south" end is the back. See that hole that is centered in the "south" end of the lower intake (because of the lighting it looks like a Ying Yang)? It looks almost as big in diameter as the 8 large holes in the middle of the intake? that is the hole where your PCV mounts. Grab the black hose that leads to the hole and pop out your PCV. There will be a black rubber grommet too. Now grab a small hook tool and push it down into that hole, fish around a little and try to hook onto that small PCV screen so that you can pull it up and out of the PCV hole. I swear, if you can't get it from those instructions, please take your car to a shop have someone else work on it __________________ 1995 SVT Cobra #182/4005, 275/305, 217k miles 1996 SVT Mystic Cobra #1666/2000, 267/263, 178k miles 1995 Mustang, 3.8L, 233k miles 1993 Mustang LX, 2.3L, T5 convert, 95 GT suspension swap, 03 Cobra steering rack, 250k miles sold: 1987 GT MM Military Crew Member MM+Cleavage member #21 Last edited by Cobraman1024; January 14th, 2011 at 10:09 PM.

January 23rd, 2011, 03:04 PM	#10
AdderMk2 Banned Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: al-Ahhmadi, Kuwait Posts: 991 iTrader: 0 reviews	no __________________ [URL="http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/2148862880.html"]1994 Cobra For Sale[/URL] [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [QUOTE=Timm10221]Its only a 10 inch Tach that sits right in the center of the dash with LED lights and a Spinner bezel that has dimonds and gold plating.. And when you hit 4500 plus is sounds off (AAHHH SHITT) :cool:[/QUOTE]

January 16th, 2011, 01:19 AM	#8
Red95_5Oh Regular 1995 GT 4Ever Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: C Town Posts: 170 iTrader: 0 reviews	I didn't check it out today. To damn tired after work. But I will probably checj it out monday or or something.

January 23rd, 2011, 02:13 PM	#9
Red95_5Oh Regular 1995 GT 4Ever Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: C Town Posts: 170 iTrader: 0 reviews	is the 93 intake the same as the 94-95?

January 24th, 2011, 06:23 AM	#12
Everett Hardcore Enthusiast 2000 gt Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Saskatoon Posts: 1,053 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 2 reviews	A cai will cost you fuel mileage.... Put seafoam in the brake booster vacuum line. Ford makes a great tob..... __________________ Black and White Crew Crew Member # 3 centerforce dual friction,.100 shot freeflow exhaust,70mm accufab tb,professional products plenum, tri ax,3.90s amazing how fast you can go when the road never curves .....lighting up the Canadian prairie

January 24th, 2011, 11:43 AM	#15
Red95_5Oh Regular 1995 GT 4Ever Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: C Town Posts: 170 iTrader: 0 reviews	well my hose is fraked up for sure... its barley hangin on it and is severally warn. I know that i will have to replace the gaskets and stuff but hey fak it i dont have any friends so auh might as well work on my car.. thanks for the help. The picture you posted tho confused the hell out of at first till i noticed it was the wrong year. I do appreciate the help everyone. Mission almost accomplished.

January 28th, 2011, 02:42 PM	#17
Red95_5Oh Regular 1995 GT 4Ever Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: C Town Posts: 170 iTrader: 0 reviews	ok so i am getting the recommend tob and such... I am ordering 3.73s which pinche color gear should I get to correct the speedo?

January 28th, 2011, 03:39 PM	#18
Red95_5Oh Regular 1995 GT 4Ever Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: C Town Posts: 170 iTrader: 0 reviews	Here are the part numbers i ordered: CMB-06-0000 CTF-52010 CTF-N1714 RAM-BA50M hope i did ok...

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