I'm stuck help, TFS intake manifold.

stang94 · April 20th, 2007, 07:21 PM

Hey guys, i'm decide to do this myself. I"m installing the upper and lower intake manifold myself. This is my first. Well so far I go the upper off and manage to broke the vac line the one that comes out to a "T", no biggie easy replacment I already go it from local parts store and swap it out.

I losen the fuel rail and pop the fuel injectors off. There's a piece on the lower intake that I'm having a hard time getting off. Any idea on what to do and what NOT to do here. Thanks guys.

stang94 · April 20th, 2007, 07:23 PM

Open the pic, you'll see what I"m talking about, when I turn that bolt, will the complete line turn. I am guessing NO, because theres a fat tublar thing going to the back on the engine bay that attach to it and cannot be turn. Unless only the nut on the bottom is the only one turns around.
Thanks again guys.

Darrell · April 20th, 2007, 08:41 PM

Take the rubber hose off of the pipe back by the firewall and then take the intake off with the pipe still attached. It will be easier to work with once you get the intake out of the car and have more room to work on it.

stang94 · April 20th, 2007, 08:47 PM

Cool, thanks I might be PM/ing you alot until I finish this I shold be done by monday lol I'll take my time, cuz I only got like 2 hrs a day to work on it. Thanks alot I'll let you know how it goes tomorrows.

stang94 · April 21st, 2007, 12:53 PM

I already have the two valve cover and the holley 24lb injector, should I put them in now, or wait till next year when I do the heads?, will I notice any difference with the injectors or just burning more gas without the proper heads?

Darrell · April 21st, 2007, 04:59 PM

I wouldn't put the injectors in now. It would be a waste because your engine doesn't need them.

stang94 · April 21st, 2007, 07:18 PM

ok, I didn't get time to work on it today, too busy with work and stuff, but I should be able to remove the lower intake and clean it up and put the new one back on. Should I use RTV to help seal it or not?

Darrell · April 22nd, 2007, 01:04 AM

Use RTV around the water jackets and a big bead of it on the ends of the block instead of the end gaskets that they send along.

stang94 · April 22nd, 2007, 07:58 AM

So use the RTV instead of the gasket, you gonna have to be alittle more detail here, what/where is the water jacket, what part is it? If you need pic I have, I'm taking pics along the parts I take out so I can put it back together. Don't seem hard so far to remove and put back, but I want to make sure I get all the seals done properly as I dont want to get back in there after I close it.

Darrell · April 22nd, 2007, 06:46 PM

Use the intake gaskets that go between the intake and head, do not use the end seals that go between the intake and the block. I suggest you get a repair manual and learn a bit about your engine.

stang94 · April 22nd, 2007, 09:02 PM

I picked up the book, what should I use between the intake and block. Because I already install it, use the gasket that comes with the intake, I see the water jacket, I guess seen it and you'll know, but I know know what the water jacket is.

The repair manual says to use the seals that goes between the lower intake and block, and I use both for the front and back, and torque it to 24 in lbs.

I haven't put the upper part in yet, what should I use between the block and the intake the front and back then, if not the seal?

Darrell · April 22nd, 2007, 09:05 PM

Between the block and intake in the front and rear should be a thick bead of RTV.

stang94 · April 22nd, 2007, 09:56 PM

Can I remove back the lower intake and put the thick bead of RTV there now, I haven't put the upper part back yet, I would not need new gasket right. And I should put the thick bead there and left it for about 15 mins, then put the lower intake back in?

Darrell · April 22nd, 2007, 11:08 PM

Yes you can remove it. You can leave it if you want and see if it leaks. If it doesn't leak then you will be ok. Its just common for the end seals to leak. If you want to try it the way it is, it isn't going to hurt anything.

stang94 · April 22nd, 2007, 11:18 PM

Hey thanks for the quick respond man, I will remove it, since I am there already only 12 bolts to loosen and put it there, I might as well it, where its uncommon to lead. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

Dude you should get a self tech website and charge people to get instructions on "do it urself project" lol.. thanks again man.

stang94 · April 24th, 2007, 07:57 AM

I remove it, place the black RTV, I put everything back together, the place got dark on me, so I'll be putting the Eblow and TB on today, hookup my CAI back, all vaccume hose are back in, anything else before I crank it up?

stang94 · April 24th, 2007, 06:42 PM

Hey whats up I just finish the install on the TFS upper and lower intake, I start the car and it would not idle right, I also hear a knocking coming from the engine. The engine shakes more than it used to before, I guess because of its idle close to shutoff. The knocking coming from the engine its not constant, if i give it alittle (very little) gas it will rev ok, then hear the knock again. I have my brother in law listen to it, and it sounds like its coming from the upper intake, then it also sound like it coming from somewhere else. It sounds like you hit something with an hammer, how the valve cover will sound if you hit it. You got any idea, what that might be?

Darrell · April 25th, 2007, 01:26 PM

Originally Posted by stang94

Hey whats up I just finish the install on the TFS upper and lower intake, I start the car and it would not idle right, I also hear a knocking coming from the engine. The engine shakes more than it used to before, I guess because of its idle close to shutoff. The knocking coming from the engine its not constant, if i give it alittle (very little) gas it will rev ok, then hear the knock again. I have my brother in law listen to it, and it sounds like its coming from the upper intake, then it also sound like it coming from somewhere else. It sounds like you hit something with an hammer, how the valve cover will sound if you hit it. You got any idea, what that might be?

Was the intake the only thing you changed? Did you leave something in the lifter valley when you had the intake off?

stang94 · April 25th, 2007, 01:29 PM

No I did not leave anything in there, and yes it was only the upper and lower intake.

But I think I know what the problem is too, I remove the distributor and did not mark it, and just put it back it, so timing is messed up? will that cause it to intermetting knocking

Darrell · April 25th, 2007, 01:51 PM

Originally Posted by stang94

No I did not leave anything in there, and yes it was only the upper and lower intake.

But I think I know what the problem is too, I remove the distributor and did not mark it, and just put it back it, so timing is messed up? will that cause it to intermetting knocking

Yes it can cause detonation which will make the engine sound similar to a diesel. Fix it before you drive it or you can do some major damage.

April 20th, 2007, 07:23 PM	#2
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	Open the pic, you'll see what I"m talking about, when I turn that bolt, will the complete line turn. I am guessing NO, because theres a fat tublar thing going to the back on the engine bay that attach to it and cannot be turn. Unless only the nut on the bottom is the only one turns around. Thanks again guys. __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)

April 20th, 2007, 08:41 PM	#3
Darrell MM Ninjas! 1990 Mustang LX 9.36@143 mph Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin Posts: 6,579	Take the rubber hose off of the pipe back by the firewall and then take the intake off with the pipe still attached. It will be easier to work with once you get the intake out of the car and have more room to work on it. __________________ Racing in memory of Dave Bandt 11/19/69 - 3/23/08 "he's traded his wheels for wings" Professor of Natural Aspiration Thanks to: Artie at Trick Flow, Dave at Team Z Motorsports, Brian at Total Engine Airflow and Harold at Furo Racecraft

April 20th, 2007, 08:47 PM	#4
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	Cool, thanks I might be PM/ing you alot until I finish this I shold be done by monday lol I'll take my time, cuz I only got like 2 hrs a day to work on it. Thanks alot I'll let you know how it goes tomorrows. __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)

April 21st, 2007, 12:53 PM	#5
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	I already have the two valve cover and the holley 24lb injector, should I put them in now, or wait till next year when I do the heads?, will I notice any difference with the injectors or just burning more gas without the proper heads? __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)

April 21st, 2007, 04:59 PM	#6
Darrell MM Ninjas! 1990 Mustang LX 9.36@143 mph Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin Posts: 6,579	I wouldn't put the injectors in now. It would be a waste because your engine doesn't need them. __________________ Racing in memory of Dave Bandt 11/19/69 - 3/23/08 "he's traded his wheels for wings" Professor of Natural Aspiration Thanks to: Artie at Trick Flow, Dave at Team Z Motorsports, Brian at Total Engine Airflow and Harold at Furo Racecraft

April 21st, 2007, 07:18 PM	#7
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	ok, I didn't get time to work on it today, too busy with work and stuff, but I should be able to remove the lower intake and clean it up and put the new one back on. Should I use RTV to help seal it or not? __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)

April 22nd, 2007, 01:04 AM	#8
Darrell MM Ninjas! 1990 Mustang LX 9.36@143 mph Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin Posts: 6,579	Use RTV around the water jackets and a big bead of it on the ends of the block instead of the end gaskets that they send along. __________________ Racing in memory of Dave Bandt 11/19/69 - 3/23/08 "he's traded his wheels for wings" Professor of Natural Aspiration Thanks to: Artie at Trick Flow, Dave at Team Z Motorsports, Brian at Total Engine Airflow and Harold at Furo Racecraft

April 22nd, 2007, 07:58 AM	#9
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	So use the RTV instead of the gasket, you gonna have to be alittle more detail here, what/where is the water jacket, what part is it? If you need pic I have, I'm taking pics along the parts I take out so I can put it back together. Don't seem hard so far to remove and put back, but I want to make sure I get all the seals done properly as I dont want to get back in there after I close it. __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)

April 22nd, 2007, 06:46 PM	#10
Darrell MM Ninjas! 1990 Mustang LX 9.36@143 mph Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin Posts: 6,579	Use the intake gaskets that go between the intake and head, do not use the end seals that go between the intake and the block. I suggest you get a repair manual and learn a bit about your engine. __________________ Racing in memory of Dave Bandt 11/19/69 - 3/23/08 "he's traded his wheels for wings" Professor of Natural Aspiration Thanks to: Artie at Trick Flow, Dave at Team Z Motorsports, Brian at Total Engine Airflow and Harold at Furo Racecraft

April 22nd, 2007, 09:02 PM	#11
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	I picked up the book, what should I use between the intake and block. Because I already install it, use the gasket that comes with the intake, I see the water jacket, I guess seen it and you'll know, but I know know what the water jacket is. The repair manual says to use the seals that goes between the lower intake and block, and I use both for the front and back, and torque it to 24 in lbs. I haven't put the upper part in yet, what should I use between the block and the intake the front and back then, if not the seal? __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)

April 22nd, 2007, 09:05 PM	#12
Darrell MM Ninjas! 1990 Mustang LX 9.36@143 mph Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin Posts: 6,579	Between the block and intake in the front and rear should be a thick bead of RTV. __________________ Racing in memory of Dave Bandt 11/19/69 - 3/23/08 "he's traded his wheels for wings" Professor of Natural Aspiration Thanks to: Artie at Trick Flow, Dave at Team Z Motorsports, Brian at Total Engine Airflow and Harold at Furo Racecraft

April 22nd, 2007, 09:56 PM	#13
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	Can I remove back the lower intake and put the thick bead of RTV there now, I haven't put the upper part back yet, I would not need new gasket right. And I should put the thick bead there and left it for about 15 mins, then put the lower intake back in? __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)

April 22nd, 2007, 11:08 PM	#14
Darrell MM Ninjas! 1990 Mustang LX 9.36@143 mph Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Fond du Lac, Wisconsin Posts: 6,579	Yes you can remove it. You can leave it if you want and see if it leaks. If it doesn't leak then you will be ok. Its just common for the end seals to leak. If you want to try it the way it is, it isn't going to hurt anything. __________________ Racing in memory of Dave Bandt 11/19/69 - 3/23/08 "he's traded his wheels for wings" Professor of Natural Aspiration Thanks to: Artie at Trick Flow, Dave at Team Z Motorsports, Brian at Total Engine Airflow and Harold at Furo Racecraft

April 22nd, 2007, 11:18 PM	#15
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	Hey thanks for the quick respond man, I will remove it, since I am there already only 12 bolts to loosen and put it there, I might as well it, where its uncommon to lead. I'll keep you posted on how it goes. Dude you should get a self tech website and charge people to get instructions on "do it urself project" lol.. thanks again man. __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)

April 24th, 2007, 07:57 AM	#16
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	I remove it, place the black RTV, I put everything back together, the place got dark on me, so I'll be putting the Eblow and TB on today, hookup my CAI back, all vaccume hose are back in, anything else before I crank it up? __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)

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April 24th, 2007, 06:42 PM	#17
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	Hey whats up I just finish the install on the TFS upper and lower intake, I start the car and it would not idle right, I also hear a knocking coming from the engine. The engine shakes more than it used to before, I guess because of its idle close to shutoff. The knocking coming from the engine its not constant, if i give it alittle (very little) gas it will rev ok, then hear the knock again. I have my brother in law listen to it, and it sounds like its coming from the upper intake, then it also sound like it coming from somewhere else. It sounds like you hit something with an hammer, how the valve cover will sound if you hit it. You got any idea, what that might be? __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)

April 25th, 2007, 01:29 PM	#19
stang94 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jamaica, NY Posts: 1,005	No I did not leave anything in there, and yes it was only the upper and lower intake. But I think I know what the problem is too, I remove the distributor and did not mark it, and just put it back it, so timing is messed up? will that cause it to intermetting knocking __________________ FREE & FOR SALE 198x 351W Block - 90,xxx Miles (FREE) 94-98 GT Hood, 2 pr tail light - 1 Pr power mirror - FREE NEW - ENERGY SUSP Motor Mount POLY, RED ($100) NEW - Reserve Glow Blue/Green ($50)