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#1 |
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Newbie
1994 Mustang Cobra
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilcox County, Georgia
Posts: 47
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MAF Sensor Screen
I removed my air silencer and I also took off the MAF screen like a guide on here said to do. I took it around the block and everytime I got on the throttle hard, it acted like it was going to choke down(kinda like when the MAF needs erplacing). I put the screen back on and the engine straightened out. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!
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#2 |
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Enthusiast
1999 mustang cobra
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 882
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If what ever guide said you can do that with out having any problems then you should look into your fuel system. You might want to replace the fuel filter and clean the injectors if you feel nessesary
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Black and White Crew Crew Member # 5 Check garage for mods and pics if you Los Angeles and want to ride send me a text (323) 270-6827 0% Wheel hop, 0% broken parts, 100% wheel spin |
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#3 |
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Regular
1995 Mustang GT vert
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: GA
Posts: 499
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Personally I would keep the screen. Keeps a lot of things from getting into the engine and causing problems.
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1995 Mustang GT vert: STOCK, AODE (B&M shift kit), 2.73 gears, red leather, 410,000~ miles. 2007 Mustang GT: 4.6, 5-speed, 3.55 gears, black on black. (dads car) 1975 Camaro LT: 305ci, TH-350, weiand intake, 600cfm carb, 3.42 gears. |
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#4 |
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Newbie
1994 Mustang Cobra
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilcox County, Georgia
Posts: 47
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I was gonna take the risk on stuff getting through the filters if I had a power boost, but looking back, I'd rather play it safe and keep it on there. I was just wondering if it was the smoother flowing air moving too quick for the sensor because it runs great and pulls hard with the sensor on it.
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Oh the joys of an F-body, but this Mustang isn't so bad. ![]() http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/tyler.mac70 |
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#5 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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The air filter should take care of that. None of the aftermarket MAF sensor housings have screens and yet engines run fine with them, so it's not the removal of the mesh screen that's the problem. It could just simply be a dirty sensor wire that needs cleaning.
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#6 | |
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Regular
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I removed mine the other day (mesh screen) and been driving around just fine without any problems. I did put the rubber thing (that was around the mesh screen) back in, so it would seal the ring. I did this while I cleaned my EGR Valve, than decided to clean the MAF Sensor and IAC Valve while I was at it. I replaced the Gasket on the EGR Valve and IAC Valve. Then I reset the computer or whatever. I removed the Air Silencer long time ago. Free Modifications Do you have the Stock Air Filter or a K&N Air Filter? Edit: Now that I think about it, I don't think that the Cold Air Intakes (CAI) use them either. At least I don't think my BBK Cold Air Intake (CAI) uses it, when I tested it I didn't use it or it wouldn't fit. I'm not sure, since it's I'm not using it right now.
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http://www.myspace.com/1436684 http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001773492517 Last edited by BikerSk8rKid; March 17th, 2011 at 09:39 PM. |
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#7 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 4,875
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That screen isn't there to keep debris out of the engine, it's meant to smooth the airflow before it hits the MAF. Air coming around the bends in the intake piping can become turbulent, the screen breaks up the turbulence and gives the MAF a smoother stream of air to flow across the element. I would put the screen back on.
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#8 | |
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Regular
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#9 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 4,875
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They are built to be able to handle the turbulence.. to a degree. Ones that use stock electronics that don't come with a screen tend to cause problems. Like those garbage C&L meters. But a lot of them have better electronics and better elements in them.
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#10 |
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Regular
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When should I start to notice mine messing up? LoL I've had it off for I think 3 days now.
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#11 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 4,875
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It won't always cause problems. Sometimes you can pull them and be fine, sometimes you can get all kinds of odd stuff happening, when MAF's are sending dirty signals to the EEC all kinds of different problems can pop up. If you pulled it and haven't noticed an issue, chances are you probably never will. But if you ever run into a problem where the car is running funny, throw it back in and see if it clears it up.
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#12 | |
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Regular
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Mine could have been doing the same, expect I cleaned my IAC/EGR Valve and MAF Sensor and than reset the computer. I'm actually glad that mine isn't failing on me, because I don't think my BBK Cold Air Intake (CAI) will allow the Mesh Screen. |
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#13 |
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Newbie
1994 Mustang GT
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: KC, Mo
Posts: 20
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I was reading my advanced tuning book, and the author was talking about MAF and how [not just] LS1 guys would take out that screen and would cause problems because like previously mentioned: turbulence and it cant read it right. I'm at work right now other wise i'd quote the book but as far as i know, you shouldnt remove it.
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#14 | |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 4,875
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Last edited by fogged306; March 19th, 2011 at 04:17 AM. |
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#15 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Mmmm. Interesting statement. I still have the stock electronics, stock 19lb injectors, and I don't have any problems using my C&L 76mm MAF/CAI kit. The C&L kit has the filter mounted at the front so the airflow has a straight path at the MAF sensor.
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#16 |
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MM Fanatic
89 GT
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 4,875
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If you've ever talked to tuners who have graphs of the C&L MAF curve, you'll know what I'm talking about. They're very dirty signals and tough to tune with. Not every one, but a lot of them. You probably don't have an issue because you're not running a "calibrated" sample tube, which is the main source of the problem with them.
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#17 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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That sounds logical. I've also heard that the MAF transfer curves on calibrated sample tubes for larger than stock injectors is less than optimal, requiring a tune to get it right in some cases.
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#18 |
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Newbie
1994 mustang cobra
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 19
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so i was reading this about the thread, i have a 94 cobra with 20k original miles. the engine is like new, i recently put a bassani o/r x pipe, bbk shorty ceramic headers, and took out silencer. yet the idle is slightly rough enough to see the needle on the rpms bounching a tiny bit and shakes the car enough to feel it. i was wondering what could be causing this and how to fix it. it was fine before all of the bolt ons were put on. i also cleaned the maf sensor after it started acting up
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#19 | |
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Regular
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I usually unplug the battery before cleaning the MAF Sensor and IAC Valve. Then after put back together I let the car idle for a little, then drive it around the block. So it can reset it's self. |
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#20 |
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Regular
94 5.0 302 gt
in the making
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: HOME OF BILL CLINTON
Posts: 89
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they are there to reduce air turb,if its a cold air intake youll be fine if its the stock setup there could be a problem.
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