MAF Sensor Screen
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Old March 17th, 2011, 10:58 AM   #1
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MAF Sensor Screen


I removed my air silencer and I also took off the MAF screen like a guide on here said to do. I took it around the block and everytime I got on the throttle hard, it acted like it was going to choke down(kinda like when the MAF needs erplacing). I put the screen back on and the engine straightened out. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!
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Old March 17th, 2011, 11:10 AM   #2
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If what ever guide said you can do that with out having any problems then you should look into your fuel system. You might want to replace the fuel filter and clean the injectors if you feel nessesary
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Old March 17th, 2011, 01:35 PM   #3
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Personally I would keep the screen. Keeps a lot of things from getting into the engine and causing problems.
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Old March 17th, 2011, 03:13 PM   #4
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I was gonna take the risk on stuff getting through the filters if I had a power boost, but looking back, I'd rather play it safe and keep it on there. I was just wondering if it was the smoother flowing air moving too quick for the sensor because it runs great and pulls hard with the sensor on it.
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Old March 17th, 2011, 03:54 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by johnGT View Post
Personally I would keep the screen. Keeps a lot of things from getting into the engine and causing problems.
The air filter should take care of that. None of the aftermarket MAF sensor housings have screens and yet engines run fine with them, so it's not the removal of the mesh screen that's the problem. It could just simply be a dirty sensor wire that needs cleaning.
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Old March 17th, 2011, 08:58 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Bullitt95 View Post
The air filter should take care of that. None of the aftermarket MAF sensor housings have screens and yet engines run fine with them, so it's not the removal of the mesh screen that's the problem. It could just simply be a dirty sensor wire that needs cleaning.
+1
I removed mine the other day (mesh screen) and been driving around just fine without any problems. I did put the rubber thing (that was around the mesh screen) back in, so it would seal the ring. I did this while I cleaned my EGR Valve, than decided to clean the MAF Sensor and IAC Valve while I was at it. I replaced the Gasket on the EGR Valve and IAC Valve. Then I reset the computer or whatever. I removed the Air Silencer long time ago.

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Do you have the Stock Air Filter or a K&N Air Filter?

Edit:
Now that I think about it, I don't think that the Cold Air Intakes (CAI) use them either. At least I don't think my BBK Cold Air Intake (CAI) uses it, when I tested it I didn't use it or it wouldn't fit. I'm not sure, since it's I'm not using it right now.

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Old March 18th, 2011, 03:01 AM   #7
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That screen isn't there to keep debris out of the engine, it's meant to smooth the airflow before it hits the MAF. Air coming around the bends in the intake piping can become turbulent, the screen breaks up the turbulence and gives the MAF a smoother stream of air to flow across the element. I would put the screen back on.
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Old March 18th, 2011, 03:12 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
That screen isn't there to keep debris out of the engine, it's meant to smooth the airflow before it hits the MAF. Air coming around the bends in the intake piping can become turbulent, the screen breaks up the turbulence and gives the MAF a smoother stream of air to flow across the element. I would put the screen back on.
How come the Aftermarket MAF's and CAI's don't come with screens or usable screens?
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Old March 18th, 2011, 03:36 AM   #9
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They are built to be able to handle the turbulence.. to a degree. Ones that use stock electronics that don't come with a screen tend to cause problems. Like those garbage C&L meters. But a lot of them have better electronics and better elements in them.
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Old March 18th, 2011, 03:40 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
They are built to be able to handle the turbulence.. to a degree. Ones that use stock electronics that don't come with a screen tend to cause problems. Like those garbage C&L meters. But a lot of them have better electronics and better elements in them.
When should I start to notice mine messing up? LoL I've had it off for I think 3 days now.
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Old March 18th, 2011, 03:43 AM   #11
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It won't always cause problems. Sometimes you can pull them and be fine, sometimes you can get all kinds of odd stuff happening, when MAF's are sending dirty signals to the EEC all kinds of different problems can pop up. If you pulled it and haven't noticed an issue, chances are you probably never will. But if you ever run into a problem where the car is running funny, throw it back in and see if it clears it up.
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Old March 18th, 2011, 04:08 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
It won't always cause problems. Sometimes you can pull them and be fine, sometimes you can get all kinds of odd stuff happening, when MAF's are sending dirty signals to the EEC all kinds of different problems can pop up. If you pulled it and haven't noticed an issue, chances are you probably never will. But if you ever run into a problem where the car is running funny, throw it back in and see if it clears it up.
Is it possible his is running like that because it needs to be clean and Computer Reset?
Mine could have been doing the same, expect I cleaned my IAC/EGR Valve and MAF Sensor and than reset the computer. I'm actually glad that mine isn't failing on me, because I don't think my BBK Cold Air Intake (CAI) will allow the Mesh Screen.
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Old March 18th, 2011, 11:18 AM   #13
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I was reading my advanced tuning book, and the author was talking about MAF and how [not just] LS1 guys would take out that screen and would cause problems because like previously mentioned: turbulence and it cant read it right. I'm at work right now other wise i'd quote the book but as far as i know, you shouldnt remove it.
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Old March 19th, 2011, 03:58 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by BikerSk8rKid View Post
Is it possible his is running like that because it needs to be clean and Computer Reset?
Mine could have been doing the same, expect I cleaned my IAC/EGR Valve and MAF Sensor and than reset the computer. I'm actually glad that mine isn't failing on me, because I don't think my BBK Cold Air Intake (CAI) will allow the Mesh Screen.
If he took the screen off, had problems, then put the screen back on and they went away, then my guess is he's got one of those cars that doesn't like the screen removed. When you have a CAI you sometimes have a better shot at running without the screen because the intake tubings are smooth, and have less chance of the air going turbulent. MAF placement is also a factor. If it's directly after an elbow, the air tends to be more turbulent than if it has more straight pipe in between it and the elbow.

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Old March 19th, 2011, 01:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
Ones that use stock electronics that don't come with a screen tend to cause problems. Like those garbage C&L meters.
Mmmm. Interesting statement. I still have the stock electronics, stock 19lb injectors, and I don't have any problems using my C&L 76mm MAF/CAI kit. The C&L kit has the filter mounted at the front so the airflow has a straight path at the MAF sensor.
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Old March 20th, 2011, 12:19 AM   #16
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If you've ever talked to tuners who have graphs of the C&L MAF curve, you'll know what I'm talking about. They're very dirty signals and tough to tune with. Not every one, but a lot of them. You probably don't have an issue because you're not running a "calibrated" sample tube, which is the main source of the problem with them.
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Old March 20th, 2011, 02:00 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by fogged306 View Post
You probably don't have an issue because you're not running a "calibrated" sample tube, which is the main source of the problem with them.
That sounds logical. I've also heard that the MAF transfer curves on calibrated sample tubes for larger than stock injectors is less than optimal, requiring a tune to get it right in some cases.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 03:49 PM   #18
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so i was reading this about the thread, i have a 94 cobra with 20k original miles. the engine is like new, i recently put a bassani o/r x pipe, bbk shorty ceramic headers, and took out silencer. yet the idle is slightly rough enough to see the needle on the rpms bounching a tiny bit and shakes the car enough to feel it. i was wondering what could be causing this and how to fix it. it was fine before all of the bolt ons were put on. i also cleaned the maf sensor after it started acting up
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Old April 10th, 2011, 05:41 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by wxexs92 View Post
so i was reading this about the thread, i have a 94 cobra with 20k original miles. the engine is like new, i recently put a bassani o/r x pipe, bbk shorty ceramic headers, and took out silencer. yet the idle is slightly rough enough to see the needle on the rpms bounching a tiny bit and shakes the car enough to feel it. i was wondering what could be causing this and how to fix it. it was fine before all of the bolt ons were put on. i also cleaned the maf sensor after it started acting up
Try cleaning your IAC Valve.
I usually unplug the battery before cleaning the MAF Sensor and IAC Valve. Then after put back together I let the car idle for a little, then drive it around the block. So it can reset it's self.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 08:01 PM   #20
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they are there to reduce air turb,if its a cold air intake youll be fine if its the stock setup there could be a problem.
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