[monson21]

I bought this 95 gt last june and have had nothing but problems out of it from the start due to poor maintenance from the prior owner. I can't seem to find a definite problem to my answer this time.

problem 1- I'll start my car in the mornings and back out of the driveway, but as soon as i shift it into drive the engine shuts off. the radio, lights and all the other electronics work, but the engine just cuts off. sometimes it will start right back up, other times it won't.

problem 2- If by chance my car actually makes it into drive, it will run fine for a little bit but once i get into stop and go traffic it will start to idle lower and lower till the engine shuts off completely. once again, it might start back up, it might not

I've had 6 different mechanics tell me 6 different things ranging from needing a complete new engine and transmission to needing a new distributor. Has anyone here had the same issue that was able to be easily resolved? Replacing parts that may not be broken is way out of my budget.

[970 5.0]

Ive been having similar problems. Im beggining to think I got a bad distributer from the part store. When it turns off does it try to start again? Mine will start then die, start and die, start and die, then an hour or few later it will start up and run fine.

[monson21]

yea that sounds about right. i've been told the same thing about the distributor but mechanics have also come up with so many different things like the idle air control, a hole in the exhaust, a bad transmission, throttle positioning switch. just so many different ideas. idk what to think the problem could actually be

[TOOtall20]

does it throw a check engine light?

[monson21]

nah no check engine light. that's why it's a little confusing to believe that i need a complete new engine.

[95opal]

most likely culprit is a bad TFI module or PIP sensor

[Serlin]

dont rely just on the check engine light,
use and obdII reader and check for codes.

Take it to a Mustang specific shop.

Thats all I got.

[monson21]

it's a 95 so there is no obdII port. and another problem i have is i'm stationed in north dakota. there really isn't a mustang specific place to take the car.

[970 5.0]

Mines a 94 but it does have an OBDII port... as should you? Mine just doesnt work if you plug it into it. You have to use the one under the hood. Ive seen a 95 work with an OBDII scanner before but it was a 3.8. But maybe try it?

[monson21]

I didn't realize that. i was under the impression it didn't have one since sct handheld tuners aren't made for them because it did not have one. i'll have to check that out. thanks

[95opal]

All 94-95 stangs were euiped with the obd11 port as some of the bodys were used with v6s that are obd11. The 5.0 is obd1 and the obd11 port is there just because that is how ford produced the bodies, trust me the obd11 port will net you a big zero. Take my previous suggestion as they are the most likely problem that your dealing with.

[hotmustang95]

Who ever told you you need a new engine should be kicked in the balls immediately, ripoff artist. It's most likely the pip inside the dizzy like mentioned before. Find a shop that deals with Fords or worst case take it to Ford.

[fogged306]

Originally Posted by 95opal most likely culprit is a bad TFI module or PIP sensor

I agree. The common trend I've seen on this and other mustang forums when someone has a stall and no hot start condition, generally ends up being the TFI. I believe you can have them tested at a parts store.

You've talked to a lot of bullshit mechanics who only want to make money on you... a hole in the exhaust causing the car to stall and not re-start? An new engine and transmission because the car stalls? come on... some people just need to be punched in the face for being deceitful cocksuckers.

[monson21]

well the problem is i'm stationed in a very very small town that makes it hard to hide the fact about being military so everyone wants to take advantage. it's ridiculous some of the things mechanics will say. the ford dealership is actually the place that said i needed a new tranny. but thanks. i'll go ahead and replace the distributor and just go ahead and get a full tune-up and see if that takes care of the problem. thanks again

[fogged306]

The TFI is separate on the SN-95 cars. So if you replace the distributor you won't be replacing the TFI. I don't have one of those cars and I forget offhand where they're located in the engine bay, but they aren't built in to the dizzy, I know that for sure. I would also have it tested before you replace. Just because it's a good likelyhood, doesn't mean that's automatically your problem. The only thing throwing parts at a problem does is lighten your wallet.

[monson21]

yea i was just looking into that. supposedly they used to be installed next to the distributor but after a recall were moved somewhere else, but i'm not exactly sure where. but i figure a tune-up can't hurt anything and when i get that done i'll just have the tfi module looked at

[hotmustang95]

Originally Posted by monson21 yea i was just looking into that. supposedly they used to be installed next to the distributor but after a recall were moved somewhere else, but i'm not exactly sure where. but i figure a tune-up can't hurt anything and when i get that done i'll just have the tfi module looked at

It's now rite under the mass air meter. Where the intake tube is. It's a metal looking box, like an amp with the TFI rite in the middle. Try replacing that first. If it don't work then try the dizzy. And tell that Ford dealershit to suck your cock for being suck cocksuckers for trying to rip you off.

[Bullitt95]

Originally Posted by monson21 problem 1- I'll start my car in the mornings and back out of the driveway, but as soon as i shift it into drive the engine shuts off. the radio, lights and all the other electronics work, but the engine just cuts off. sometimes it will start right back up, other times it won't. problem 2- If by chance my car actually makes it into drive, it will run fine for a little bit but once i get into stop and go traffic it will start to idle lower and lower till the engine shuts off completely. once again, it might start back up, it might not I've had 6 different mechanics tell me 6 different things ranging from needing a complete new engine and transmission to needing a new distributor. Has anyone here had the same issue that was able to be easily resolved? Replacing parts that may not be broken is way out of my budget.

1. Try cleaning the MAF sensor wire with a Q-tip soaked in brake cleaner (you'll need a tamperproof Torx bit to remove the screws holding it inside the MAF housing).

2. Pull out the IAC valve from the throttle body and clean it thoroughly with carb cleaner.

I'd be surprised if neither of these simple measures doesn't help in any way but if that happens, have the PIP sensor and TFI module tested before replacing either component.

Mechanics will often try to rip you off by recommending radical, expensive solutions to a fairly simple problem so beware.