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Old May 3rd, 2007, 09:26 PM   #1
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performance parts


got 250 to spend what should i get
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Old May 3rd, 2007, 09:33 PM   #2
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a flux capacitor
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Old May 4th, 2007, 08:55 AM   #3
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FRPP 3.73:1 ring and pinion. Best bang per buck mod for any 94-95 5.0 Stang.
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Old May 4th, 2007, 09:00 AM   #4
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Do you have any mods at all?
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Old May 4th, 2007, 02:36 PM   #5
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I'd recommend the 3.73:1 r&p swap even on a bone stock Stang. That said, you could do the following mods for next to nothing:

Remove air silencer
Advance timing to 14 degrees
Remove smog pump assembly
Remove EGR
Remove strut tower brace
Remove rear axle dogbone

Remember that performance is directly related to the power/weight ratio so you can increase it by reducing weight as well as by increasing power.
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Old May 5th, 2007, 04:00 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Bullitt95
I'd recommend the 3.73:1 r&p swap even on a bone stock Stang. That said, you could do the following mods for next to nothing:

Remove air silencer
Advance timing to 14 degrees
Remove smog pump assembly
Remove EGR
Remove strut tower brace
Remove rear axle dogbone

Remember that performance is directly related to the power/weight ratio so you can increase it by reducing weight as well as by increasing power.
Excatly why would you want to remove your strut tower brace?
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Old May 6th, 2007, 08:13 AM   #7
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To save 6lb of weight over the nose. I had to remove mine anyway to install the phenolic spacer between the upper and lower manifolds so I just left it off. That way I won't need to remove it again when I do the H/C/I conversion later on.
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Old May 8th, 2007, 06:51 AM   #8
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"To save 6lb of weight over the nose. I had to remove mine anyway to install the phenolic spacer between the upper and lower manifolds so I just left it off. That way I won't need to remove it again when I do the H/C/I conversion later on."

The strut tower brace is there for a reason even if you had to remove it for a spacer there are aftermarket braces that will clear your intake. If your simply worried about weight theres also the front brakes, calipers, rotors, sway bar, etc etc etc. Some things are just required for stability.
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Old May 8th, 2007, 12:11 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by "boss302_gt
The strut tower brace is there for a reason even if you had to remove it for a spacer there are aftermarket braces that will clear your intake. If your simply worried about weight theres also the front brakes, calipers, rotors, sway bar, etc etc etc. Some things are just required for stability.

lol.. you beat me to it.

that bar helps alot
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Old May 8th, 2007, 12:13 PM   #10
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and unless you have more than 250 to spen i would not dig into my rear end especially if you have alot of miles cause you could end up needing to replace alot of stuf and it can get pretty expensive. i would do the smog pump (air pump) delete if it were me
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Old May 8th, 2007, 05:16 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by stang94
that bar helps alot
I haven't noticed any difference at all with the strut tower brace removed. I think any difference on a near stock GT is all in the mind.
As for the sway bar, removing that WILL noticeably increase body roll through corners. A tubular K-member and A-arms will save a lot more weight than removing the sway bar, and a pair of aluminium heads will shave a further 40lb off the nose.
When I had my 3.73:1 r&p installed, I also bought a master bearing kit at the same time and had them all replaced inside the rear diff.
I plan to upgrade my tranny as the next mod. I haven't decided which shift kit I'll buy but I'll have the tranny completely overhauled at the same time as the shift kit installation.
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