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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 2
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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performance parts
got 250 to spend what should i get
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#2 |
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Doc
1986 SVO
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 36,836
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a flux capacitor
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#3 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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FRPP 3.73:1 ring and pinion. Best bang per buck mod for any 94-95 5.0 Stang.
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![]() 244whp/284wtq Mod list in My Garage |
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Jamaica, NY
Posts: 1,077
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Do you have any mods at all?
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Giving Away For FREE PM ME. FREE 351 Block, 90,xxx miles (Non roller block) FREE 94-98 GT Hood (red) |
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#5 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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I'd recommend the 3.73:1 r&p swap even on a bone stock Stang. That said, you could do the following mods for next to nothing:
Remove air silencer Advance timing to 14 degrees Remove smog pump assembly Remove EGR Remove strut tower brace Remove rear axle dogbone Remember that performance is directly related to the power/weight ratio so you can increase it by reducing weight as well as by increasing power.
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![]() 244whp/284wtq Mod list in My Garage |
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#6 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Jamaica, NY
Posts: 1,077
![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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Giving Away For FREE PM ME. FREE 351 Block, 90,xxx miles (Non roller block) FREE 94-98 GT Hood (red) |
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#7 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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To save 6lb of weight over the nose. I had to remove mine anyway to install the phenolic spacer between the upper and lower manifolds so I just left it off. That way I won't need to remove it again when I do the H/C/I conversion later on.
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#8 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 39
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"To save 6lb of weight over the nose. I had to remove mine anyway to install the phenolic spacer between the upper and lower manifolds so I just left it off. That way I won't need to remove it again when I do the H/C/I conversion later on."
The strut tower brace is there for a reason even if you had to remove it for a spacer there are aftermarket braces that will clear your intake. If your simply worried about weight theres also the front brakes, calipers, rotors, sway bar, etc etc etc. Some things are just required for stability. |
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#9 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Jamaica, NY
Posts: 1,077
![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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lol.. you beat me to it. that bar helps alot
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Giving Away For FREE PM ME. FREE 351 Block, 90,xxx miles (Non roller block) FREE 94-98 GT Hood (red) |
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#10 |
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Regular
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and unless you have more than 250 to spen i would not dig into my rear end especially if you have alot of miles cause you could end up needing to replace alot of stuf and it can get pretty expensive. i would do the smog pump (air pump) delete if it were me
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95' GT is being reconstructed! |
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#11 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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As for the sway bar, removing that WILL noticeably increase body roll through corners. A tubular K-member and A-arms will save a lot more weight than removing the sway bar, and a pair of aluminium heads will shave a further 40lb off the nose. When I had my 3.73:1 r&p installed, I also bought a master bearing kit at the same time and had them all replaced inside the rear diff. I plan to upgrade my tranny as the next mod. I haven't decided which shift kit I'll buy but I'll have the tranny completely overhauled at the same time as the shift kit installation. |
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