[matholland]

Hey guys, I have been fighting this problem, and I really need it running right asap...here's the story.

I bought a gt40 upper and lower intake off cl with a throttle body....turns out it was on a fox body, and the throttle body was different...I sold the throttle body to a buddy, and bought the elbow adapter.

When I went to install the gt40 intake on...i broke 2 lower bolts off into the head...1 on each..I though, good time to upgrade to the gt40 heads.

So I found a set of gt40 heads, that had just been redone with trick flow springs, and all of the gaskets needed for 340 bucks...bought them, installed everything, got it all back together, set timing, and it ran fine..

However, when it got warm, the car would not start and idle, unless you took it down the rd, then it would idle fine...you had to keep the rpms up so it wouldn't die, and after you drove it 2 blocks it was fine..

I remember before the swap once out of maybe 30 starts, it would do a similar thing..it would start and almost die, until you went down the rd? if you just rev it up it wont help it, you have to drive it down the road.

Well after we got it together a few days later my distributor started making noises...bearings were bad...so I went and got a new distributor...the first one i got was packed wrong, right part number, but was a truck distributor, because it had the pick up on the side, and you couldn't go passed 10* timing....So i took it back, and got another one, this one was the right one...I install it, set base timing of 10*, put my spout connector back in, and it runs like shit when you rev it?

You take the spout out and it revs fine? What I ended up doing was setting the base timing at 22* and thats what I have it at now..

I thought that the starting problem might be the IAC...I had cleaned it in the past, so I figured I would replace it...well that wasn't it.

I changed the o2 sensors...that wasn't it.

MAF is clean..and the other day was the first time I have ever got a code for it...I tried my buddys, and it didn't make any change in the way it started..

Usually this problem is just when it is warm, but sometimes when its just idling, its surging really bad almost dieng, and reving up to about 1500 rpms.



So why can't I run it with the spout in? when you plug it in, it does indeed advance the timing to 20 something *... Why wont it idle right? TPS voltage seems fine, but I bought another one hoping that was it...? Heres the codes I got the other day...

113
157
158
172
173
176
177
212
332

my egr vacuum lines are disconnected so i know thats the reason for one of the codes...

I just replaced the 02 sensors...no codes prior to that before i replaced them, i just went ahead and bought new ones and installed them....why are they showing up lean/rich..i think thats what a cpl of those mean..

spout is out, and timing is set at 22*..cant get it to run right otherwise

[Bullitt95]

You might want to check all the rubber/plastic vacuum hoses 'cause I'm willing to bet that you have at least one that leaks.

[matholland]

I did, used ether and sprayed it all around and couldn't find anything.

[Cobraman1024]

I'm wondering if you've got an intake vacuum leak where the lower intake meets the block.

That issue where you have to drive the car a couple blocks before it runs better; sounds like a closed loop issue.......you've changed the oxygen sensors, maybe something related to the intake air temperature sensor (your code 113) or coolant temperature sensor?
MAF sensor is pegged for codes 157 and 158.
Odd how you're still getting the 172, 173 and 176, 177 codes after you've changed the oxygen sensors.
I'd start checking wiring next.

[Cobraman1024]

That SPOUT issue; Take your car up to Autozone or Advance Auto Parts, remove the ignition control module thats mounted under where the MAF is located and have one of those places test it. If your SPOUT wiring is good, the ICM is what I'd look at next.

[matholland]

anyway to check the coolant temp sensor or something before i go out and waste more money on this pos and it not fix it

[Cobraman1024]

use a multimeter to check the resistance of the sensor when the car is cold. Start the engine, get it up to operating temperature to where the temperature gauge is in the normal range. shut the car off and immediately check the resistance of the sensor again. Compare the two different resistance readings to the factory specifications. If the resistance obviously did not change when the engine was at operating temperature, then you definitely need to replace the sensor.

[matholland]

do you know what the resistance should be? I don't have a manual. Do i need to do this with it plugged up or with the plug unplugged?

[Bullitt95]

Here's your answer:

Ford Fuel Injection Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)

You could also test the ACT sensor while you're there:

Ford Fuel Injection Air Charge Temperature Sensor (ACT)

[Cobraman1024]

Originally Posted by matholland do you know what the resistance should be? I don't have a manual. Do i need to do this with it plugged up or with the plug unplugged?

with the plug unplugged would be best because it allows the easiest access to the metal terminals on the sensor.

[matholland]

Thanks guys, I will check it after work and post my results.

[matholland]

Also, does anyone have a picture of the ignition control module?

[Cobraman1024]

here ya go..........this picture even shows exactly how its mounted against the passenger side inner fenderwell:

[matholland]

thanks a lot!

[ryanw]

Are you sure your distributor isnt off....Did you make sure you were a zero top dead center with the rotor pointing at cylinder #1 ? Are you sure your balancer hasnt spun ?

[matholland]

new harmonic balancer, just put on after i put on the distributor and had problem...tdc on compression stroke pointing at number 1..im positive...i had it out when i did my head and intake swap, and did it the same way i put my old one in.

[matholland]

ok, i got a new engine coolant temp sensor, and my plug was a little messed up (bare wires showing) and i fixed them, and put my new sensor in and its still having the same problem..and i actually believe that it still cutting out just high rpms close to red line...i noticed it just a minute ago...ignition control module checked out a okay.

[matholland]

it really wants to make me think i got a faulty distributor, just because my old one was fine with the spout in...but dang i dont think i could have got 2 faulty distros.

[matholland]

body shop called me yesterday saying they are gonna get me in soon...any ideas???...just drove it wallago...chip is still out, i stompted on it, and it hit close to redline and almost completely died?? its wanting to cut out now with the chip out? I am going to try replacing the rotor on it, i used an emery cloth when i changed my distributor....its only 5 bucks at autozone, so I am going to try it....if not I am leaning towards a faulty distributor, just because it was running fine with the spout in before? makes no since to me...

[94bossgt]

what rpm is it idling at when it is runnin also try and run the car without the maf plugged in mine took a shit and ran like complete garbage unplugged it and it smoked the tires through 3rd