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#1 |
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Regular
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 52
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Transmission removal tips.
Alright I got a '95 Gt, and me and my dad are trying to take the transmission off without taking the whole engine off ( need to change the throw out bearing) and there's almost NO room for a socket wrench, and other stuff... any tips you guys could give me. Also it's not the Stock 302, it's a 306.
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#2 |
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Regular
94 GT
13.95@100
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: NY
Posts: 435
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1. Remove driveshaft, H-pipe, and shifter
3. Drop cross member 4. Remove transmission bellhousing bolts. This is done with assorted long extensions and a universal joint. 5. Drop it! I had one out at the junkyard in about 90 minutes it's really not that complicated
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94 Opal Frost GT ~230k T5 swap, other mods
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#3 |
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Regular
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 52
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Lol we don't wanna drop it, just get it back a few inches to get your hand in there and change the throw out bearing... but yeah i guess I'm trying to make it very difficult on myself trying to get it from inside the bay... with 1/2" of room at most.
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#4 |
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Regular
1991 Ford Mustang GT
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 213
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Did you manage to get it out? Your not going to reach all those tranny bolts from the engine bay. You'll have to get under the car. I dropped my t5 to change the TOB. It was easy to take out, but a PITA to get back in by myself using a regular jack. While it isn't all that heavy it isn't light for one person with a minimal amount of room.
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#5 |
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Regular
1999 Mustang
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 204
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Why are we telling him to take the bellhousing bolts off? The bellhousing can stay right where it is, all you need to do is remove the 4 15mm bolts holding the tranny itself to the bellhousing and then you can lower it a little with the floor jack and slide it back in the tunnel. Then you can get the clutch fork out and replace the bearing.
It's actually easier to do the tranny on the ground in my opinion and it's not bad to do solo either. You can balance it on the floor jack and just manuver it into the throwout bearing and finally into the clutch disc/pilot bearing. It helps to grab the tail housing and move it slightly back and forth until the tranny slide on in. If you find that it's not going in that final 1/2" or so, you can use a pry bar and release the clutch and it'll usually slide the rest of the way in. I learned how to solo with a Tremec 3550 and that thing was a beast compared to a wimpy little T5!
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![]() 1999 V6 Vert converted to 5.0 EFI with Vortech V2 SQ, Edelbrock Performer intake, BBK shorties, O/R H, Flowmasters, 42lb injectors, 75mm Pro-M with MAFia extender, 255lph fuel pump. SCT tuned 370 rwhp 400 rwtq. |
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#6 | |
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Enthusiast
1995 SVT Cobra
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Fall River, MA and Juffair, Bahrain
Posts: 780
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Exactly this. the bellhousing only needs to be removed if you are changing the clutch or need to work on the flywheel or rear main seal. since you've got your dad helping you, have one of you guys push in the clutch pedal after reconnecting the clutch cable to the fork when trying to get the transmission in. Its a big help that way.
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![]() 1995 SVT Cobra #182/4005, 275/305, 217k miles 1996 SVT Mystic Cobra #1666/2000, 267/263, 178k miles 1995 Mustang, 3.8L, 233k miles 1993 Mustang LX, 2.3L, T5 convert, 95 GT suspension swap, 03 Cobra steering rack, 250k miles sold: 1987 GT MM Military Crew Member MM+Cleavage member #21
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