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Old June 24th, 2008, 01:22 AM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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Car shutting off while driving...


Happened to me three times last week and it would take at least a couple of minutes of waiting before it would crank up again. I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filler and at the toll booth it shut off on my again. took two times trying to start it for it to finally run. dont know what else to check
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Old June 24th, 2008, 02:40 PM   #2
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If the engine just shuts off at random while driving without coughing or spluttering beforehand, it's probably a bad Hall Effect PIP sensor in the distributor. The cure is a new distributor.
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Old June 24th, 2008, 11:58 PM   #3
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... check the ignition modual... coil... plugs wired dist. cap rotor button. but u need to know weither its fuel or fire b4 you start replacing things needlessly, bullitt, i dont think the 94-95 has the hall effect sensor, but i may be wrong. i know bout the pick-up but never seen the hall effect sensor. (the kicker is i have worked at a autovalue parts store for over 3 years and have been all through the ignition system on my car and not once do i remember seeing that hall efect type sensor. but i could be crazy) anyways... fuel or fire? got to know
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Old June 27th, 2008, 08:33 AM   #4
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Your condition is very common of a failing ignition module. It is also hard to test because if it is the module it will only test bad when it gets hot and shuts off. At all other times it will test good which makes it a commonly misdiagnosed problem.
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Old June 27th, 2008, 11:38 AM   #5
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ok so how do i figure out if its fire or fuel. Ive heard from people it might be something with the ignition module or distributor. I have an msd ignition so how would i go with checking that. And what else should i look at.
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Old June 27th, 2008, 03:22 PM   #6
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The halls effect sensor is also called PIP sensor/magnetic pickup and YES our cars have it. I agree with bullitt, I think you'll have to replace your dizzy(so much easier than replacing the HES) If that isn't the problem then change the ignition control module. It's one or the other. You'll have 150 bucks wrapped up into both parts but at least they'll be new and you won't have to worry about it anymore. Cheaper than a car payment.
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Old June 27th, 2008, 03:55 PM   #7
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can someone help me locate both and how to check and remove.
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Old June 27th, 2008, 05:03 PM   #8
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my mechanic said its the crank sensor but he didnt look at it yet
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Old June 27th, 2008, 06:17 PM   #9
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Your mechanic is a retard we dont have crank sensors. Like was already stated replace the dizzy if thats not it, its the TFI. Both are know faults with these cars.

When the condition accurs, test to see if the injectors are pulsing with a noid light. If they are not pulsing and you have no spark the PIP is at fault. If you have pulsing and no spark the TFI would be the next bet.
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Old June 28th, 2008, 01:05 AM   #10
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my bad i meant camshaft sensor.
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Old June 28th, 2008, 08:02 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Haseeb718 View Post
my bad i meant camshaft sensor.
We dont have one of those either.
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Old June 28th, 2008, 09:12 AM   #12
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The primary function of the TFI-IV ignition system universal distributor is to direct the high secondary voltage to the spark plugs. In addition, it supplies crankshaft position and frequency information to the ECA using a Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) sensor in place of the magnetic pickup or the crankshaft position sensor used on other models. This distributor does not have any mechanical or vacuum advance. The universal distributor assembly is adjustable for resetting base timing, if required, by disconnecting the SPOUT connector.

The PIP replaces the crankshaft position sensor found on other EEC-IV models.

The PIP sensor has an armature with four windows and four metal tabs that rotate past the stator assembly (Hall-effect switch). When a metal tab enters the stator assembly, a positive signal is sent to the ECA , indicating the 10°BTDC crankshaft position. The ECA calculates the precise time to energize the spark output signal to the TFI module. When the TFI module receives the spark output signal, it shuts off the coil primary current and the collapsing field energizes the secondary output.
As flamedstang95 said, the problem's either going to be the PIP sensor inside the distributor (easier to replace the dizzy than the sensor) or the TFI module.
Haseeb718, I suggest you replace the dizzy first. If that doesn't cure it, a new TFI module definitely will. At worst if you replace both (not at the same time), you'll know which one out of your old dizzy or old TFI module is still good and you can keep it as a spare.
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Last edited by Bullitt95; June 28th, 2008 at 09:16 AM.
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Old June 28th, 2008, 10:50 AM   #13
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I don't mind replacing both but i don't get how people are saying it only costs 130 for both parts, when all i found was around 280 for both. I got msd ignition so that means i got to put a msd on or a stock one back on?
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Old June 28th, 2008, 01:25 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Haseeb718 View Post
I don't mind replacing both but i don't get how people are saying it only costs 130 for both parts, when all i found was around 280 for both. I got msd ignition so that means i got to put a msd on or a stock one back on?


Refer to my other post. I have already explained how to test to find out what
one is at fault. Cheaper to test first and buy the correct part the first time.
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Old June 28th, 2008, 01:33 PM   #15
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yeah but the thing is it happens while driving so if i stop then it wont do it again
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Old June 28th, 2008, 07:44 PM   #16
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Just replaced the ignition module. going to drive it home and see if i need to swap the dizzy too. quick question. can i keep the red msd cap and wires and just swap the dizzy with a stock one. it cost me 142 for everything and a $30 core charge for the dizzy.
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Old June 29th, 2008, 12:36 PM   #17
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Just because you have an MSD box doesn't mean you need an MSD dizzy. You'll pay out the ass for one of those and they have been known to fail as well. A re-man dizzy from napa should cost you around 100 bucks and you'll get a 1 yr warranty with it. Yes you can transfer the stuff over. I'm gonna tell you though, don't attempt to put the dizzy in if you don't know how. It's not one of those drop in and go swaps for a novice(which I take it you are) I wouldn't take it to the guy that is telling you that you have a crank or cam sensor either because obviously he isn't too bright. As bullitt said, get them both replace one at a time and whatever part is junk, throw it. Keep the other for a spare.
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Old June 29th, 2008, 12:41 PM   #18
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Well i got both put in. I put the module in my self and a couple of friends of mines put the dizzy in. its running good now. Thanks a lot to everyone that helped.
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