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Discussing choosing a cam... help please. in the 94-95 Forum. I'm looking at getting a cam for my '95 5.0 which is the best to ... Modded Mustangs is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. We discuss all aspects of the Ford Mustang on the forum. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free! |
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#1 |
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Regular
2004 Mustang SVT Cobra
448whp/475wtq
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 345
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choosing a cam... help please.
I'm looking at getting a cam for my '95 5.0 which is the best to buy and what kind of performance gains am i gonna be looking at?
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
95 opalfrost gt
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,175
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There is no "best" we need to know the rest of the combo and what use the car will see to make a suggestion.
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#3 |
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Regular
2004 Mustang SVT Cobra
448whp/475wtq
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 345
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the car is basically stock and its a daily driver.
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
95 opalfrost gt
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,175
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If thats the case a cam at this point is worthless. That money can be spent elsewhere. (ie.. gears, pulleys, exhaust)
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#5 |
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Regular
1985 GT
13.01@105.10
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 210
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Definately agree....that money better spent elsewhere...
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"Pain will always be there, misery is optional....." |
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#6 |
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Regular
2004 Mustang SVT Cobra
448whp/475wtq
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 345
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well i should have been more specific with basically stock i have exhaust w/offroad pipe, pulleys, gears, and an aluminum driveshaft. sorry bout that.
Last edited by burnout5.0 : July 24th, 2008 at 10:35 AM. |
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#7 |
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Regular
1995 Mustang GT
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Magnolia, DE
Posts: 386
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Keep the stock cam in there until you can afford to do heads and intake with it too. The mods you have now are a start, but, not enough to warrant a cam swap.
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See garage for mods |
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#8 |
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Regular
2004 Mustang SVT Cobra
448whp/475wtq
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 345
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ok so in that case what should i do next? i wanna stay N/A my final goal over time is 400 RWHP
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#9 |
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Regular
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Norfolk, Va
Posts: 123
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With that number on a stock 302 block N/A isn't going to be easy. Might wanna step up the cubes.
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#10 |
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Regular
1995 Mustang GT
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Magnolia, DE
Posts: 386
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Yup I agree! It'll be hard to get 400hp out of a 302. You might want to start looking at 331, 347, 351, 393, 408. The faster you wanna go the more expensive it's going to get. It has taken me almost a year and over 6k to have my motor "just about" finished. Just be patient and save what you can to do it right the first time.
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See garage for mods |
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#11 |
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Regular
1989 LX Vert - 1993 Notch
Fast
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Houston
Posts: 398
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you could throw a turbo on your stock motor and make
well over 400rwhp and keep idle friendly stock cam. run you about $3-4k after its all said and done.
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#12 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1995 Mustang GT
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Solomons, MD
Posts: 1,112
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the stock cam is actually a fairly aggressive cam and isnt worth changing until you swap the entire top end of the car. if you want to get yourself close to 400 hp, i would suggest forced induction. keep your eyes and ears peeled for a good deal on a supercharger and you can easily bolt on 100-150 hp with a low boost s/c kit.
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GT40p heads, 1.7 crane RR's, GT40 u/l, MAC LTs, MAC o/r h-pipe, Flowmaster 40s, 65mm t/b, '03 Cobra Bilstein Struts, Tokico Bullitt Shocks, MM c/c plates, Eibach Sportlines, B&M shifter, 255lph f/p, RAM p/g clutch, Fidanza alum fly, rebuilt t-5
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#13 |
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Regular
2004 Mustang SVT Cobra
448whp/475wtq
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 345
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yeah i would love to do a kenne bell or a trick flow top end kit but its alot of money....
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#14 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1995 Mustang GT
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Solomons, MD
Posts: 1,112
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this is true... it is hard to justify putting a $3000 part into a $5000 car. it really doesnt make sense. lol.
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GT40p heads, 1.7 crane RR's, GT40 u/l, MAC LTs, MAC o/r h-pipe, Flowmaster 40s, 65mm t/b, '03 Cobra Bilstein Struts, Tokico Bullitt Shocks, MM c/c plates, Eibach Sportlines, B&M shifter, 255lph f/p, RAM p/g clutch, Fidanza alum fly, rebuilt t-5
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#15 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 15
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yo sorry kid for reviving all your wicked old threads. gotta get my thread count up.
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#16 |
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MM's Surfer dude
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cedar Grove NJ
Posts: 2,790
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#17 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New jersey
Posts: 1,559
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how about a nitrous kit?Its the cheapest power adder and you could add 75-100hp
pretty easily. A turbo kit like the stage 1 Kit by BG turbokits.com has can produce enough power to split your block in 2 and cost 2500 bucks and is a good quality kit unlike some you find around here.It might seem to cost a lot but creates the most power without having to refill like nitrous.
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Heres a real funny video youtube.com/watch?v=ojB7KkaR03I VTEC stands for Very Torqueless Economy Car Honda stands for Hold On Not Done Accelerating 1991 LX 5.0 H/B(T-70 turbo coming soon) |
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#18 |
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Regular
1989 mustang gt
8th 5.70
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: savannah
Posts: 198
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going to a more aggressive cam with out changeing the heads and valve springs ect is pointless all its gona do is make you mad when you go out in cold mornings to crank your car and you have to stay with it till it warms up.
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