Idling Problem with 1995 Mustang GT - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 12 Old August 3rd, 2008, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Idling Problem with 1995 Mustang GT

I just recently bought my 1995 mustang gt, and it didnt have the air installed on it. The compressor was off and everything. So i installed one back on it and put r-134 back in it. But when i crank it up, it idles up and down for a little bit between 500 and 1000 rpms for a few minutes, then cuts off. But when i turn the air on inside, the car runs fine. Can anyone help me with this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Because im kinda stuck right now.
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post #2 of 12 Old August 3rd, 2008, 04:21 AM
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you need wipe the KAM in the ECM, and do a base idle relearn

you have the infamous "idle surge" the reason why it goes away with the A/C turned on is because the ECM tells the IAC to open up a litle bit to raise your idle. this negates the added drag from the a/c clutch being engaged. In your cars case, it helps the motor keep from choking

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post #3 of 12 Old August 6th, 2008, 03:39 PM
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If you have idling problems with both the A/C and defroster then replace the A/C cycling switch on the dryer.

Also +1 on the base idle reset... if you don't know how then search the forums, if you have no luck ask here
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post #4 of 12 Old August 6th, 2008, 05:57 PM
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The edit button didn't show up on my previous post so I could edit it but I mention the cycling switch because if it goes bad it can send false signals to your computer and long story short make idle fluxuate 100-200 RPMs. My 5.0's cycling switch went bad but would turn the compressor on (not the normal side effect of a cycling switch I know). When I replaced it for $17 after reading about it on a different forum, Poof my idle "surge" went away. However, it only did it on the A/C and defroster setting. You mention that your surge goes away so my suggestion probably wont work in this case. Definitely do the base idle reset first and see what happens.

Last edited by Ryno8705; August 6th, 2008 at 05:59 PM.
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post #5 of 12 Old August 6th, 2008, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ryno8705 View Post
The edit button didn't show up on my previous post so I could edit it but I mention the cycling switch because if it goes bad it can send false signals to your computer and long story short make idle fluxuate 100-200 RPMs. My 5.0's cycling switch went bad but would turn the compressor on (not the normal side effect of a cycling switch I know). When I replaced it for $17 after reading about it on a different forum, Poof my idle "surge" went away. However, it only did it on the A/C and defroster setting. You mention that your surge goes away so my suggestion probably wont work in this case. Definitely do the base idle reset first and see what happens.
are you talking about the high pressure switch?
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post #6 of 12 Old August 14th, 2008, 02:16 PM
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no. the switch on the dryer by the firewall. It's the cycling switch, not the high pressure cut-off switch (loacted by the fan shroud). Look on your dryer by the firewall, its a two pin connector that if you take the connector off you will see a flat head set screw inside the harness cavity (it adjusts what pressure the switch signals the compressor to turn on or off) but you shouldn't have to adjust it. I mention it as a reference point.

Last edited by Ryno8705; August 14th, 2008 at 02:21 PM.
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post #7 of 12 Old August 14th, 2008, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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no. the switch on the dryer by the firewall. It's the cycling switch, not the high pressure cut-off switch (loacted by the fan shroud). Look on your dryer by the firewall, its a two pin connector that if you take the connector off you will see a flat head set screw inside the harness cavity (it adjusts what pressure the switch signals the compressor to turn on or off) but you shouldn't have to adjust it. I mention it as a reference point.
well i ran my own relay from that switch on the dryer momentarily. the guy at the a/c shop said that main relay on the radiator shroud is probably the reason my compressor isnt getting power.
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post #8 of 12 Old August 21st, 2008, 12:28 PM
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well i ran my own relay from that switch on the dryer momentarily. the guy at the a/c shop said that main relay on the radiator shroud is probably the reason my compressor isnt getting power.
Sorry for not responding sooner.

The main relay on the radiator shroud? Correct me if I am wrong but the only AC sensor by the radiator is the high pressure cut off switch. If that's your problem then you have too much R134 in the system, i don't think that's your problem

Take the harness off the cycling switch and jump the connector, if your compressor turns on and you get cold air I'd replace that cycling switch. It takes a total of 1 minute to take the old switch out and put the new one in.

EDIT: I just read your initial post to refresh my memory of your problem... If it is your cycling switch that is causing your idle problems (which was my case) then take the harness off and see what happens to your idle. You can drive with that harness disconnected with no problem, your AC just wont turn on. Post your results and I'll try and respond faster.

Last edited by Ryno8705; August 21st, 2008 at 12:35 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Old September 18th, 2008, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for not responding sooner.

The main relay on the radiator shroud? Correct me if I am wrong but the only AC sensor by the radiator is the high pressure cut off switch. If that's your problem then you have too much R134 in the system, i don't think that's your problem

Take the harness off the cycling switch and jump the connector, if your compressor turns on and you get cold air I'd replace that cycling switch. It takes a total of 1 minute to take the old switch out and put the new one in.

EDIT: I just read your initial post to refresh my memory of your problem... If it is your cycling switch that is causing your idle problems (which was my case) then take the harness off and see what happens to your idle. You can drive with that harness disconnected with no problem, your AC just wont turn on. Post your results and I'll try and respond faster.
are you talkin about the harness on the a/c compressor?
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post #10 of 12 Old September 20th, 2008, 10:40 PM
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are you talkin about the harness on the a/c compressor?
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Originally Posted by Ryno8705 View Post
no. the switch on the dryer by the firewall. It's the cycling switch, not the high pressure cut-off switch (loacted by the fan shroud). Look on your dryer by the firewall, its a two pin connector that if you take the connector off you will see a flat head set screw inside the harness cavity (it adjusts what pressure the switch signals the compressor to turn on or off) but you shouldn't have to adjust it. I mention it as a reference point.
Read above, i covered this already
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post #11 of 12 Old September 21st, 2008, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Read above, i covered this already
oh sorry, i just got what you were talkin about, wel we did jump from that switch to the compressor and it worked, plus we just replaced that one too. its still not fixed. but the relay thing im talking about is the box on the radiator shroud that has one big plug with alot of wires goin to it that just plugs into it. the guy told me that it could be bad and that it has something to do with the a/c compressor cycling like it should.

and on another note, we raised the idle a little bit and i havent had as big of a problem with the weird idle. it only does it a little every now and then, its not as serious as it was though. could it be i just need to clean the IAC? or MAF sensor?
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post #12 of 12 Old September 23rd, 2008, 01:21 AM
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The easy thing would be to try cleaning the IAC. If it does anything to your idle (good or bad) then replace it. Reason being is that if cleaning it does anything it's pretty much already shot. It's only a matter of time until it completely goes bad.
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