[bkg97gt]

So im kinda in a spot, i got a set of Pi cams, but they have the pressed on gears. I got em for a good deal, and cant really afford to sell em and try to find another set. So how can i do this?

1. Do i need to retime the engine?
2. Any specialty tools that i need?
3. How in the earth do i take the timing cover off? it looks like the bottom bolts are going to be tough


car is a 1997 GT

thanks

[Cobra GT]

i have a set of comp cam 270 ah and a patriot spring set both nib pm me

[Blower Head]

The cams with the pressed on gears will work. Lining up your timing marks when reinstalling the chains is all that is necessary unless you want to degree them and that takes more work. Taking the front cover off is not a big deal, the hardest bolts to get to are in the power steering pump. As far as tools you will need a puller for the balancer/pulley and a valve spring compressor for getting your rockers out and then back in.

[bkg97gt]

nah i dont need to degree em, how much does the tool cost to compress the springs?

[ajm]

Originally Posted by bkg97gt So im kinda in a spot, i got a set of Pi cams, but they have the pressed on gears. I got em for a good deal, and cant really afford to sell em and try to find another set. So how can i do this? 1. Do i need to retime the engine? 2. Any specialty tools that i need? 3. How in the earth do i take the timing cover off? it looks like the bottom bolts are going to be tough car is a 1997 GT thanks

1. yes when you remove the cams/timing chains you have to retime it
2. the otc 7928 (i think thats the number) valve spring tool will come in handy, theyre about $100.
3. Remove your valve covers, remove your power steering pump (theres a trick to this ill post next), remove your crank pulley bolt and crank pulley, remove the powersteering reserivor and bracket and push them aside, there is an idler pulley on the pass side that might be in the way of the bolt, remove that if need be, remove the 15 front cover bolts, and the 4 bolts on the bottom holding the front cover to the oil pan and slip it right off.

[ajm]

The "trick" to removing the power steering pump is as so. People are always crying that its so hard to remove 1 bolt, they have to cut it off, it hits the line etc. Youll see what im talking about when you get to it so heres what you do. Remove the other two bolts saving the one that will hit the line for last. Using a flat/0* angle 10mm ratchet wrench start to back out the last bolt, as the bolt comes out pull the power steering pump along with it. Takes all of a minute or two to get them all.

[4.6LMadness]

Thats exactly what i had to do but with a wrench, jeez that was a real PITA.

[bkg97gt]

how do you retime these motors? do i need to mark the gears and chains like i have read or is this different since they are pressed on gears?

[ajm]

mark the gears and chains. The only difference it makes having cams w/ pressed on gears vs bolt on is just that... Theyre simply pressed on there rather than bolted on.

[bkg97gt]

not to keep on asking questions lol, but where do i mark these gears and chains?

on the crank of the engine? cause i cant mark the gears on the cams cause how would i re-line them up?

[4.6LMadness]

the chains should have a link that is a little bit darker than the rest when you fold the chain in half, each side of it should have that dark link.

Then its a matter of putting the motor top dead center and lining up the chains with the cam marks and the crank sprockets.

If u did it right 1 link will be on the timing mark on the cam and the other dark link will be on the timing mark that is located on the sprocket

[ColdSteel]

i have the ford service DVD that has pictures and a step by step process of this. PM me if you want it.

[NeverEnuff]

1. You don't need the compression tool UNLESS you are doing springs.
2. The chains are marked...if you lay it down, you will see 1 darker link, and the complete opposite side is the other one. if you see no marks...make your own. Lay the chain down so it looks like this l=============l and mark the ends (l's) Those are your marks.

Basically take off your valve covers, then your timing cover, obviously the P/S pump and A/C pump will need to be moved out of the way, along with probably the one idler and waterpump pulley.

Once that is done, take a screw driver and pop out all the followers. Go to each one that is on the base circle of the cam and pop it off. Rotate the motor over and over till all of them are off.

Then take the tensioners off the tensioner arms on the front of the heads. Remove the chains. Then up top remove all cam caps and bolts. Do not mix up the cam caps. Put them back on as they came off. Remove all lifters. Remove the old cams, and install the new ones. Don't worry about timing yet. TQ the caps to 89in/lbs.

Now rotate the motor to #1 at TDC. Your marks for the crankside should be pointing at 6 oclock. (Little dimple on the sprocket) Take your futher back sprocket and chain and install 1 mark on the dimple on the crank, bring the chain around to the 'fixed' guide and rotate the cam to line up with the mark and the dot on the cam gear. It really is that easy. If the marks are on the dots, you are done. Keep it tight...install the tensioners, and bleed all the lifters down 3-5 times, and replace any that do not have any tension after bleeding them down.

Install the followers the same way you took them off. Rotate each one you install to the base circle and use a flathead to install them anyway you can. Careful NOT to pry on the spring or valve stem at all. (had a nasty mistake once)

Good luck.

PM me if you need anything else.

[ColdSteel]

reps please?




i think im going to take the time to make a thread on this..

[G.T. Rags]

there already is a thread on this..... Cam Swap On SOHC 4.6 1998 GT

[ColdSteel]

i know this rags, not trying to step on caspers dick. i just figure it wouldn't hurt having the guide from the ford manual up too.