How much hp from stock cast crank?

SWEET2KSTANG · October 31st, 2009, 09:41 PM

Originally Posted by tbird88tbo

Speaking of blowing out the bottom end, what actually happens? I would guess that it would damage more than just the crank but i have never seen this since most of the cars i deal with day to day are just peoples daily drivers, few of which even have sports cars. And of the ones who do have sports cars non of them drive them the way they are ment to be driven...fast and hard...if they did i would know.

If anyone has pictures of a blown bottom end that would be great.(sorry in advance if it is from your car, but congrats at the same time...battle scars are awsome after they heal!)

To me there is nothing cooler then a car that gets used, abused, fixed, abused again, fixed again, ect...like mine. I cant stand trailer cars! They are nice and cool to look at, but otherwise pointless and boaring.

here was mine: ouch...........

Originally Posted by tbird88tbo

btw, sweet2kstang, i still dont know what you mean by treated crank. What exactly is the process. Is it just getting you rotating assembly balanced or does it involve some kind of case harding heating process, or coatings maybe? Please explain.

you can have the crank cryo treated for strength as example of treating it for strength. balancing is a process of the whole rotating assembly.

tbird88tbo · November 1st, 2009, 01:47 AM

That sux, but it wasnt the crank that was the blow out for you. Either way, doesnt look like there was any usable parts left in the engine. I just bought new c heads for my set up and i want to make sure nothing happens to them. Blocks are expendible, i can pick up alum. v blocks in the junk yard all day for less then $100. we've got tons of mark 8s and it only takes about an hour to pull an engine out of one(junk yard style). The heads and rotating assembly are what cost the most.

In the end i problay will go with a forged crank, but its still up in the air. I dont see any need for more then 600hp out of a street car. I dont plan on taking it to the track, i just want a really fast street car. I dont plan on using it as a daily driver either. After i build the engine and put it in, its going to the dyno shop to be tuned and then well see what happens from there.

SWEET2KSTANG · November 1st, 2009, 02:05 AM

nope, hurt piston and rod. where you located? i am looking to buy up some blocks as well.

tbird88tbo · November 4th, 2009, 07:45 PM

im in maryland.

sharkbait · November 5th, 2009, 01:38 PM

Just want to point out that oddly there alot of members on here from maryland. I also am from MD

BTW go with the forged crank. When the motor blows you will be kicking yourself for skipping it. Do it right the first time so you can beat the crap out of it later without any worries. You also will save yourself from that little voice in the back of your head the first time you let it loose saying "Shit i hope it dosnt blow".

SWEET2KSTANG · November 5th, 2009, 09:44 PM

do it right the first time? whats wrong with using a 650hp rated crank for a 500hp set up??? doing something like that would be a waste of money that could be better used else where. its just like the idiots that go out and get teksid blocks just so its capable of holding 3 times the power they are going to push.

330CubeGt · November 5th, 2009, 10:12 PM

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG

do it right the first time? whats wrong with using a 650hp rated crank for a 500hp set up??? doing something like that would be a waste of money that could be better used else where. its just like the idiots that go out and get teksid blocks just so its capable of holding 3 times the power they are going to push.

I Agree...

For Ex:
After i see what condition this 5.4 i have is in i might have to get the crank turned but i will most likely keep it stock and get some half decent rods/pistons and arp hardware and go for 600hp if the Eaton will allow me to lol.

In my case i don't have the extra cash but instead of a forged crank i can through the money at my tranny. and i would be much more worried about that letting loose then the crank. Just my 2 cents.

330CubeGt · November 5th, 2009, 10:14 PM

Originally Posted by sharkbait

You also will save yourself from that little voice in the back of your head the first time you let it loose saying "Shit i hope it dosnt blow".

IDK about you but anytime i go out i try to break something so to speak.And if it does it gives you reason to tear it down and build it stronger.

tbird88tbo · November 6th, 2009, 06:25 PM

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG

do it right the first time? whats wrong with using a 650hp rated crank for a 500hp set up??? doing something like that would be a waste of money that could be better used else where. its just like the idiots that go out and get teksid blocks just so its capable of holding 3 times the power they are going to push.

This is exactly why i wanted info on the stock crank. If it can handle the power then why spend the extra $ on a part that i wont even take the full advantage of. I would rather spend the $ on something i can use. And im my case, i got a teksid block because they were just as available as an iron block and already had most of the 4v parts that i needed to do my swap. I picked up my complete engine w/harness and accessories for $125. All i had to do was get a computer, oil pan, and some headers.

Now my project is at a cross roads and its time for rebuilding. In the end i do think i will go with a forged crank because knowing me, once i get to my goal of 600rwhp i will want more.

November 1st, 2009, 02:05 AM	#23
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	nope, hurt piston and rod. where you located? i am looking to buy up some blocks as well. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

November 5th, 2009, 01:38 PM	#25
sharkbait Hooo Ha Ha 1997 Mustang GT 11.99 @ 113.9mph Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Pasadena MD Posts: 9,628 iTrader: 9 reviews	Just want to point out that oddly there alot of members on here from maryland. I also am from MD BTW go with the forged crank. When the motor blows you will be kicking yourself for skipping it. Do it right the first time so you can beat the crap out of it later without any worries. You also will save yourself from that little voice in the back of your head the first time you let it loose saying "Shit i hope it dosnt blow". __________________ 374rwhp 456rwtq @ 8psi

November 5th, 2009, 09:44 PM	#26
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	do it right the first time? whats wrong with using a 650hp rated crank for a 500hp set up??? doing something like that would be a waste of money that could be better used else where. its just like the idiots that go out and get teksid blocks just so its capable of holding 3 times the power they are going to push. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

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November 1st, 2009, 01:47 AM	#22
tbird88tbo Regular 1998 Mustang Base Model Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 109 iTrader: 0 reviews	That sux, but it wasnt the crank that was the blow out for you. Either way, doesnt look like there was any usable parts left in the engine. I just bought new c heads for my set up and i want to make sure nothing happens to them. Blocks are expendible, i can pick up alum. v blocks in the junk yard all day for less then $100. we've got tons of mark 8s and it only takes about an hour to pull an engine out of one(junk yard style). The heads and rotating assembly are what cost the most. In the end i problay will go with a forged crank, but its still up in the air. I dont see any need for more then 600hp out of a street car. I dont plan on taking it to the track, i just want a really fast street car. I dont plan on using it as a daily driver either. After i build the engine and put it in, its going to the dyno shop to be tuned and then well see what happens from there.

November 4th, 2009, 07:45 PM	#24
tbird88tbo Regular 1998 Mustang Base Model Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 109 iTrader: 0 reviews	im in maryland.

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