Motor Mount install

bbrewer03 · November 14th, 2009, 01:57 PM

I'm going to be replacing my motor mounts in my 1997 GT. I'm looking for someone who has done this and who can hopefully give me a little heads up as to what I might run into. One of my main concerns is what will I need to remove in order to lift the motor. Strut tower brace, CAI, etc. Any help would be appreciated.

97S281 · November 14th, 2009, 04:46 PM

You only need to lift the motor slightly to get the old ones out and the new ones in. Jack your car up or put the front onto some ramps and look for yourself. There isn't really that much to it.

bbrewer03 · November 21st, 2009, 02:28 PM

As 97s said this is not too bad. I had access to a rack and had the car about 3.5 to 4ft off the ground and it made it a lot easier.

How to install:
Disconnect Neg. Battery Cable

Remove strut tower brace and loosen CAI at throttle body or remove all together.

Get the car up in the air. IMO the height I had mine is best, but you will need something to lift the motor later. I had a exhaust "lift" that I used to lift the motor. (A threaded rod with a big wing nut, the wing nut moves a pipe up and down lifting whatever)

Disconnect all O2 sensors in h-pipe if you have them.

Remove the Front/Passenger O2 sensor with 7/8 wrench.

Using swivel and extensions take off h-pipe to header nuts.
Remove the nuts to the exhaust hanger for the h-pipe in the middle.
Remove nuts connecting h-pipe to cat back. Remove h-pipe.

Remove the 3 starter bolts and remove the starter. (A 1/4" ratchet will get that top bolt out with little stress)

Locate the large nuts holding the motor mounts to k-member. Using extensions and a 21mm socket remove the nuts. (There is an access hole through k-member)

Support the engine with a jack, etc. Put a wood block between jack and oil pan.
Remove the bolts and studs holding the motor mounts to the engine. There are brackets mounted to the studs and you have to remove a nut from the stud and then the stud.

Lift the motor high enough to remove the old motor mounts. They can be stubborn, but keep your patience and keep twisting and they will come out.

I had to lift the motor up quite a bit more to get the new poly mounts in. I also had issues mounting them to the motor. The holes didnt line up initially on one site, but I just started geting a bolt in on each sid and lowering the motor and finally got them all in. Be careful not to pinch the starter motor cabling between the oil pan and k-member when lowering motor.

Everything else is the reverse of removal.

pyschopath76 · November 21st, 2009, 02:50 PM

Originally Posted by bbrewer03

As 97s said this is not too bad. I had access to a rack and had the car about 3.5 to 4ft off the ground and it made it a lot easier.

How to install:
Disconnect Neg. Battery Cable

Remove strut tower brace and loosen CAI at throttle body or remove all together.

Get the car up in the air. IMO the height I had mine is best, but you will need something to lift the motor later. I had a exhaust "lift" that I used to lift the motor. (A threaded rod with a big wing nut, the wing nut moves a pipe up and down lifting whatever)

Disconnect all O2 sensors in h-pipe if you have them.

Remove the Front/Passenger O2 sensor with 7/8 wrench.

Using swivel and extensions take off h-pipe to header nuts.
Remove the nuts to the exhaust hanger for the h-pipe in the middle.
Remove nuts connecting h-pipe to cat back. Remove h-pipe.

Remove the 3 starter bolts and remove the starter. (A 1/4" ratchet will get that top bolt out with little stress)

Locate the large nuts holding the motor mounts to k-member. Using extensions and a 21mm socket remove the nuts. (There is an access hole through k-member)

Support the engine with a jack, etc. Put a wood block between jack and oil pan.
Remove the bolts and studs holding the motor mounts to the engine. There are brackets mounted to the studs and you have to remove a nut from the stud and then the stud.

Lift the motor high enough to remove the old motor mounts. They can be stubborn, but keep your patience and keep twisting and they will come out.

I had to lift the motor up quite a bit more to get the new poly mounts in. I also had issues mounting them to the motor. The holes didnt line up initially on one site, but I just started geting a bolt in on each sid and lowering the motor and finally got them all in. Be careful not to pinch the starter motor cabling between the oil pan and k-member when lowering motor.

Everything else is the reverse of removal.

man that is an impressive write up. could make this into a stick! reps

SWEET2KSTANG · November 21st, 2009, 08:22 PM

done

yamanx · July 14th, 2010, 05:41 PM

I replaced my motor mounts without removing anything. Still very simple install got it done in about two hours. The key to it all was the offset ratchet, helps get in all the tight places like behind the starter.

zdkel · July 14th, 2010, 05:55 PM

Originally Posted by yamanx

I replaced my motor mounts without removing anything. Still very simple install got it done in about two hours. The key to it all was the offset ratchet, helps get in all the tight places like behind the starter.

impressive! where were you a year ago when I replaced my passenger side mount...I am embarrassed to say how long it took me (days, not hours).

97S281 · July 14th, 2010, 07:39 PM

You have pics of this said " offset ratchet"???

yamanx · July 14th, 2010, 08:29 PM

Ya sorry I didn't post sooner

4eva4ord · July 15th, 2010, 04:35 PM

Idk if you can really tell but that is actually a swivel head on the end of the ratchet, a friend showed me his not too long ago and I wound up buying all three sizes of them...really handy, they actually even make one with a built in cheater bar (handle extension for those confused)

yamanx · July 15th, 2010, 06:00 PM

Ya it does, I would have to say out of all the ratchets those are the best investments.

jimmyblaze22 · October 7th, 2011, 09:14 PM

A question, because I'm about to replace my mounts soon too. When you jack the motor up however many inches you need to, what happens with the transmission?? (Manual) I mean obviously it goes up too, but doesn't that put stress on anything by jacking up the engine?? And I'm sure you're limited to only go up so much before bellhousing hits. Any input??

Speedstang302 · October 7th, 2011, 11:13 PM

You can have the motor far enough to menouver the mounts out before it really stresses anything. All I undid was my cold air from the tb to maf. That's it strut tower can stay, exhaust can stay, starter can stay. Just get a few different ratchets, socks short and tall and a couple ball type swivels not the rag joint style swivels they bind up to easy at certain angles. One bolt to disconnect from k member, 3 on block. Just remember the battery cable as to you will be removing a ground on the drivers mount.

jimmyblaze22 · October 8th, 2011, 08:32 PM

Thanks man, and btw, how do you like your 4.10's? I'm having my bearings and seals replaced soon so I decided I'd throw 4.10's in while the shop is in there. I have 3.73's now but thought I'd try the 4.10's. And how do you make a signature with all your mods and a PIC that shows when you leave posts??

1989Gt. · October 9th, 2011, 03:15 AM

410s for a 2v non pi is a waste of time. Specially if you do any sort of freeway driving.

jimmyblaze22 · October 9th, 2011, 02:29 PM

Oh, Ive got a Pi intake and cams. and I ordered ported Pi heads from MHS which should be coming in the next couple of weeks. Which I will be having installed with L/T headers and o/r H pipe. Think they would be useful then? And I plan much more for it in the future, like forged shortblock and Supercharger. But I do travel the freeway often to get to college. 15 min there and 15 min back. Should I get the 4.10's ?

Speedstang302 · October 10th, 2011, 12:02 AM

if you have boost in your future and like highway driving...stick with 3.73's...i only do highway driving ever so often but love the around town cuz i can spin through 4th if i wanted not saying i do on the streets....

lol

November 14th, 2009, 01:57 PM	#1
bbrewer03 Regular 1997 Mustang GT Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Kentucky Posts: 178 iTrader: 0 reviews	Motor Mount install I'm going to be replacing my motor mounts in my 1997 GT. I'm looking for someone who has done this and who can hopefully give me a little heads up as to what I might run into. One of my main concerns is what will I need to remove in order to lift the motor. Strut tower brace, CAI, etc. Any help would be appreciated. __________________ 1997 GT Cobra R Hood, Cobra Front bumper, MSD plug wires, Tailights, Projector headlights, 18x9 chrome bullet wheels in front and 18x10s in back, Tunable Induction Cold air intake, flowmaster mufflers. 4.10 Gears.

November 14th, 2009, 04:46 PM	#2
97S281 Rollin' 18/ pushin' 2 1997 Saleen S281 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Zebulon N.C. Posts: 6,259 iTrader: 13 reviews	You only need to lift the motor slightly to get the old ones out and the new ones in. Jack your car up or put the front onto some ramps and look for yourself. There isn't really that much to it. __________________ MODS IN GARAGE NCMM ORIGINAL BLOWN 96-98 CREW MEMBER # 1

November 21st, 2009, 02:28 PM	#3
bbrewer03 Regular 1997 Mustang GT Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Kentucky Posts: 178 iTrader: 0 reviews	As 97s said this is not too bad. I had access to a rack and had the car about 3.5 to 4ft off the ground and it made it a lot easier. How to install: Disconnect Neg. Battery Cable Remove strut tower brace and loosen CAI at throttle body or remove all together. Get the car up in the air. IMO the height I had mine is best, but you will need something to lift the motor later. I had a exhaust "lift" that I used to lift the motor. (A threaded rod with a big wing nut, the wing nut moves a pipe up and down lifting whatever) Disconnect all O2 sensors in h-pipe if you have them. Remove the Front/Passenger O2 sensor with 7/8 wrench. Using swivel and extensions take off h-pipe to header nuts. Remove the nuts to the exhaust hanger for the h-pipe in the middle. Remove nuts connecting h-pipe to cat back. Remove h-pipe. Remove the 3 starter bolts and remove the starter. (A 1/4" ratchet will get that top bolt out with little stress) Locate the large nuts holding the motor mounts to k-member. Using extensions and a 21mm socket remove the nuts. (There is an access hole through k-member) Support the engine with a jack, etc. Put a wood block between jack and oil pan. Remove the bolts and studs holding the motor mounts to the engine. There are brackets mounted to the studs and you have to remove a nut from the stud and then the stud. Lift the motor high enough to remove the old motor mounts. They can be stubborn, but keep your patience and keep twisting and they will come out. I had to lift the motor up quite a bit more to get the new poly mounts in. I also had issues mounting them to the motor. The holes didnt line up initially on one site, but I just started geting a bolt in on each sid and lowering the motor and finally got them all in. Be careful not to pinch the starter motor cabling between the oil pan and k-member when lowering motor. Everything else is the reverse of removal. __________________ 1997 GT Cobra R Hood, Cobra Front bumper, MSD plug wires, Tailights, Projector headlights, 18x9 chrome bullet wheels in front and 18x10s in back, Tunable Induction Cold air intake, flowmaster mufflers. 4.10 Gears.

November 21st, 2009, 08:22 PM	#5
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	done __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

July 14th, 2010, 07:39 PM	#8
97S281 Rollin' 18/ pushin' 2 1997 Saleen S281 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Zebulon N.C. Posts: 6,259 iTrader: 13 reviews	You have pics of this said " offset ratchet"??? __________________ MODS IN GARAGE NCMM ORIGINAL BLOWN 96-98 CREW MEMBER # 1

July 14th, 2010, 05:41 PM	#6
yamanx Regular 1998 Mustang GT Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 102 iTrader: 0 reviews	I replaced my motor mounts without removing anything. Still very simple install got it done in about two hours. The key to it all was the offset ratchet, helps get in all the tight places like behind the starter.

July 14th, 2010, 08:29 PM	#9
yamanx Regular 1998 Mustang GT Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 102 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ya sorry I didn't post sooner

July 15th, 2010, 04:35 PM	#10
4eva4ord Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 26 iTrader: 0 reviews	Idk if you can really tell but that is actually a swivel head on the end of the ratchet, a friend showed me his not too long ago and I wound up buying all three sizes of them...really handy, they actually even make one with a built in cheater bar (handle extension for those confused) __________________ 1997 Mustang project Car (engine pending) 2004 3.9L V6

July 15th, 2010, 06:00 PM	#11
yamanx Regular 1998 Mustang GT Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 102 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ya it does, I would have to say out of all the ratchets those are the best investments.

October 7th, 2011, 09:14 PM	#12
jimmyblaze22 Newbie 1998 Mustang GT Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Rochester, NY Posts: 32 iTrader: 0 reviews	A question, because I'm about to replace my mounts soon too. When you jack the motor up however many inches you need to, what happens with the transmission?? (Manual) I mean obviously it goes up too, but doesn't that put stress on anything by jacking up the engine?? And I'm sure you're limited to only go up so much before bellhousing hits. Any input??

October 7th, 2011, 11:13 PM	#13
Speedstang302 I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1996 Mustang GT 13.64@101mph Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Massachusetss Posts: 5,799 iTrader: 1 reviews	You can have the motor far enough to menouver the mounts out before it really stresses anything. All I undid was my cold air from the tb to maf. That's it strut tower can stay, exhaust can stay, starter can stay. Just get a few different ratchets, socks short and tall and a couple ball type swivels not the rag joint style swivels they bind up to easy at certain angles. One bolt to disconnect from k member, 3 on block. Just remember the battery cable as to you will be removing a ground on the drivers mount. __________________ 1990 GT- 5.0L \|BBK Shortys\|VRS O/R X\| SLP LM1 Catback\|BBK CAI\| Centerforce Clutch\|MGW Short Throw\| Alum D/S\| 3.73's\| Steeda Springs...about as stock as a 5.0 comes now a days..much more to come

October 8th, 2011, 08:32 PM	#14
jimmyblaze22 Newbie 1998 Mustang GT Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Rochester, NY Posts: 32 iTrader: 0 reviews	Thanks man, and btw, how do you like your 4.10's? I'm having my bearings and seals replaced soon so I decided I'd throw 4.10's in while the shop is in there. I have 3.73's now but thought I'd try the 4.10's. And how do you make a signature with all your mods and a PIC that shows when you leave posts??

October 9th, 2011, 03:15 AM	#15
1989Gt. Hardcore Enthusiast 1989 Mustang GT Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 2,421 iTrader: 0 reviews	410s for a 2v non pi is a waste of time. Specially if you do any sort of freeway driving.

October 9th, 2011, 02:29 PM	#16
jimmyblaze22 Newbie 1998 Mustang GT Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Rochester, NY Posts: 32 iTrader: 0 reviews	Oh, Ive got a Pi intake and cams. and I ordered ported Pi heads from MHS which should be coming in the next couple of weeks. Which I will be having installed with L/T headers and o/r H pipe. Think they would be useful then? And I plan much more for it in the future, like forged shortblock and Supercharger. But I do travel the freeway often to get to college. 15 min there and 15 min back. Should I get the 4.10's ?

October 10th, 2011, 12:02 AM	#17
Speedstang302 I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1996 Mustang GT 13.64@101mph Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Massachusetss Posts: 5,799 iTrader: 1 reviews	if you have boost in your future and like highway driving...stick with 3.73's...i only do highway driving ever so often but love the around town cuz i can spin through 4th if i wanted not saying i do on the streets.... lol __________________ 1990 GT- 5.0L \|BBK Shortys\|VRS O/R X\| SLP LM1 Catback\|BBK CAI\| Centerforce Clutch\|MGW Short Throw\| Alum D/S\| 3.73's\| Steeda Springs...about as stock as a 5.0 comes now a days..much more to come

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