Broken odometer on a 98 gt. - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 12 Old March 8th, 2010, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Broken odometer on a 98 gt.

I have a 98 gt convertable that my wife used to drive. I am expecting it back from the painter on wednesday and am looking forward to selling it.

Only problem is that the odometer doesn't work. I assumed it was the cluster and replaced it with one from the same year but it still doesn't roll. Everything else on the cluster works. Everything else on the other cluster worked too. I thought it might be a fuse so I ran a continuity check and they all came back good, both under the dash as well as under the hood. I didn't notice anything unusual or out of the ordinary with the wiring or the connectors when I swapped out the cluster, I will look more in depth when I get it back from the shop.

I was wondering if anyone else had a similar problem and what they might have found to be the problem??




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post #2 of 12 Old March 8th, 2010, 07:10 PM
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My odometer stopped working and it turned out to be the VSS(vehical speed sensor), its located on the drivers side of the trans, 2 bolts and pull it out. you can get a new one at autozone, its cheap.


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post #3 of 12 Old March 8th, 2010, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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My odometer stopped working and it turned out to be the VSS(vehical speed sensor), its located on the drivers side of the trans, 2 bolts and pull it out. you can get a new one at autozone, its cheap.
Your speedometer kept working though?




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post #4 of 12 Old March 8th, 2010, 07:15 PM
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Your speedometer kept working though?
No it did not.


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post #5 of 12 Old March 8th, 2010, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Damn, I was hoping it was that simple.

Everything else on the cluster works. Speedometer, Tachometer, voltometer, fuel guage, water temp, oil pressure and all the lights as well. The ONLY thing that isn't working is the odometer.




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post #6 of 12 Old March 8th, 2010, 07:48 PM
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Damn, I was hoping it was that simple.

Everything else on the cluster works. Speedometer, Tachometer, voltometer, fuel guage, water temp, oil pressure and all the lights as well. The ONLY thing that isn't working is the odometer.
Replace the VSS, its easy, cheap, and it will fix your problem. the problem on mine was that both of the pins on the wire harness were broken off, I had just had my clutch done and I think the guy that installed it broke off the pins and thats why my speedo didnt work. yours may just have a bad wire or connection on the signal that turns the odometer. just replace it, 15 min job.


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post #7 of 12 Old March 8th, 2010, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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I'll look at it when I get it back wednesday. Hopefully it's that simple.




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post #8 of 12 Old March 8th, 2010, 08:56 PM
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ok im on the ford tech website and im going through their diagnostic procedure, it says to disconnect the VSS and connect a voltmeter between the two pins, then lift the car and drive it up to 20-40 mph, it should be between 1.3 and 6.1 volts, if it is then you are supposed to remove cluster, disconnect connectors c250 and c251, back probe the Light green/yellow wire and check the available voltage with the key in the "run" or "on" position, should be battery voltage, if there isnt you have a short to ground in your wire, if you do have battery voltage then check the resistance between the same wire and a known good ground, there should be less than 1 ohm, if there is any more then you have an open, if you havent found it by this point then let me know and i will continue to go through this diag process, but i figured this would give you a start and this ford website is a pain in the a** to try to navigate through so i'll go further if you need it but hopefully by this point you have found your problem

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post #9 of 12 Old March 9th, 2010, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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ok im on the ford tech website and im going through their diagnostic procedure, it says to disconnect the VSS and connect a voltmeter between the two pins, then lift the car and drive it up to 20-40 mph, it should be between 1.3 and 6.1 volts, if it is then you are supposed to remove cluster, disconnect connectors c250 and c251, back probe the Light green/yellow wire and check the available voltage with the key in the "run" or "on" position, should be battery voltage, if there isnt you have a short to ground in your wire, if you do have battery voltage then check the resistance between the same wire and a known good ground, there should be less than 1 ohm, if there is any more then you have an open, if you havent found it by this point then let me know and i will continue to go through this diag process, but i figured this would give you a start and this ford website is a pain in the a** to try to navigate through so i'll go further if you need it but hopefully by this point you have found your problem
Thanks man, I'll check that when i get it back.

+reps to both of you for the help.




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post #10 of 12 Old March 9th, 2010, 08:46 PM
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i thought the odometer on the 96-98's were mechanically driven... maybe a bad worm gear in both clusters?

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post #11 of 12 Old March 9th, 2010, 11:40 PM
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my 98 worm gear is broken, noticed it when replacing dash lights seems they are notorious for that. google odometer parts or i think there's an article on here in the how to...the two gears cost around 50 bucks from a place in the carolinas
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post #12 of 12 Old March 9th, 2010, 11:55 PM
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Yep, stripped odometer gears. Same thing on my 96 GT. http://www.odometergears.com/ford.html

Last edited by laser46; March 10th, 2010 at 12:30 AM.
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