pi intake install, vacuum leaks, broken brake pads, WTB, WTT, WTS
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Old April 8th, 2010, 08:00 PM   #1
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pi intake install, vacuum leaks, broken brake pads, WTB, WTT, WTS


okay so Ive got a small list of crap so anything would be greatly appreciated.

1 PI intake) Okay So i got the Pi intake off a 2002 GT and want to install it on my 96 GT i read the great write up but my big question is what is different from that write up to my car? i am not swapping the heads (don't have the $$$) so i was going to use the caulk technique. What is the talk about drilling and tapping for the tube that runs through the valley? so i need to do that? i tried to look without lifting the intake and cant see down in there to tell whats going on. and dont forget im a college kid and have negative money lol so im looking for the cheapest (yet correct) way to install this.

2 Vacuum Leaks) this keeps happening. I keep have the vacuum hose that comes from the front of the TB into a black box (don't know what it is.) and then over into the intake tube. It constantly pulls away form the TB and creates a leak that whistles like a mofo, which isnt a big deal i simply push it on tighter (it barely moves off when it makes noise) is there any one else that had this problem and has a suggestion to get it to stay on there?

3 Broken Brake pads) I bought the car with "new pads on the front" and the front left wheel was dragging. So i jacked it up and i couldn't turn the wheel by hand.... i pulled it all apart and found the brake pad back plate had been bent with a 45 angle. I was guessing poor install. So i bought new pads put them on and guess what... same thing i haven't pulled them off yet so the car pulls to the right. but i dont wanna keep putting them on until i can figure what this is. maybe just new caliper?

4 WTB, WTS, WTT (I know this isnt the place but i dont have 100 posts yet soo...)
WTB/WTT
- headlight knob including metal retainer
- seats front and rear or covers
- front bumper skin
- aftermarket throttle body and upper plenum
- headers
- h pipe (auto)
- cat back
- tuner/programer (this is an outside suggestion..?)
- Aftermarket Steering wheel.
- maybe anything else youve got just let me know the worst that can happen is ill say no.

WTS
- BBK underive pulley set for modular mustang i think 96(after april production)-04 4.6L because it wont work on my car but i was told it would
- stock tail lights form 96 gray/siler
- stock intake
- non pi intake
- stock ride height from coils
- all AC parts lines compressor and brackets worked when pullled couple weeks ago.
- stock radio and cd player
- factory steering wheel grey (not awesome shape probably would need to be recovered or a steering wheel cover from local shop (including air bag)
- stock manifolds and catted mid pipe
- 17in GT rims with newer mismatch directional rubber on all four good condition looking to trade with cash for another set of 17s or 18s or 2 17s and 2 18s will to discuss this or make offer
have pics of anything upon request.
I am located at 48823 will ship anything at your expense.
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Old April 8th, 2010, 08:10 PM   #2
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OH I forgot one other thing...


The car is missing kind of bad on launch only on a hard launch and only up to 2Gs... i had a couple ideas ie. throttle position sensor. or maybe O2 sensor. but im not sure any ideas?
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Old April 8th, 2010, 11:22 PM   #3
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1. yes you need to do it. im sure you can find another way of doing it but its not worth the future problems, its not too hard.
2. put a hose clamp on it
3. check calipers, one is possibly stickin
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Old April 9th, 2010, 03:00 AM   #4
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for problem 2 the vacuum leak, just use a screw on clamp..all my vacuum hoses are clamped so they wont leak air...just make sure not to over tighten them and cause the hoses to restrict the air flow...that makes for a bad time.

as for the break issue did you try taking the wheel off and having someone step on the breaks while you moved the rotor by hand? thats a good way to tell if your break lines and calipers are working right. if its only got 110000 miles it should be alright unless its seen some abuse...could also be a wheel HUB issue. that happened to me like 4 months ago. it was grinding real bad and you could see aluminum shavings near the rotor...and when i turned the rotor it would barely move.

and for the intake. I installed mine like last summer and it only took about 5 hours. its a little bigger than the stock 96-98 ones, but it seriously goes right on with no issue. THe only differance is the gaskets that line up with the heads. THey dont quite match up correctly so you'll have to kind of mess with that a little to make it work. Nothing really serious though. A little ingenuity and you'll be fine. Just make sure everything is sealed up really tight so its not leaking air.
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Old April 9th, 2010, 01:22 PM   #5
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As for the first problem, I hope you don't use caulk. You should be using high temp rtv sealant (the red stuff) that you could buy at your local auto store. Also, you shouldn't have to drill and tap anything in that valley. You might have to drill and tap the intake manifold because the 99-04 Mustangs didn't have 2 coolant temp sensors like our cars did so you need to make another hole for your second sensor. Having said that, you DO need that tube because your stock tube will get in the way of the taller intake manifold, but you will also need the coolant nipple as well. Also, not sure if you mentioned it but you should get new intake manifold gaskets (preferably 99-04 with slight modification) The installation is pretty easy for all this stuff and the parts are pretty cheap as well. There are a lot of write ups and resources for this swap but if you have any questions just ask.
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Old April 9th, 2010, 10:41 PM   #6
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thanks guys im starting mine in the morning, the local parts place didnt stock everything i needed so i gotta wait. Sharkbait did it today so im hoping with enough confusing phone calls ill get this done pretty easy. where did you guys tap for the second heat sensor? and ill be messing with the wheel issues tomorrow when im done itll give me something to do while im waiting for it to dry. also the whole missing in lower RPMS went away for some reason maybe it was connected to me chronic vacuum leaks?
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Old April 10th, 2010, 12:48 AM   #7
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nice good thing with the RPMS...i had like the smallest vacuum leak and everyone was like " yeah that wont matter blah blah" needless to say once I fixed it..problem solved..but one other thing I was just thinking about when I swapped my intake..you should consider changing the water pump while your at it...I did mine all at the same time even though I probly could of went a few thousand miles or more with the one I had, but I was like " dam if I do it now while everything is torn apart I probably wont ever have to change it again". Just a suggestion if the you got the extra dough and want to save some trouble down the road
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Old April 12th, 2010, 01:05 PM   #8
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SO waiting still


I ordered the parts through a local store and somehow that got here late and were the wrong ones so i just ordered the kit from online and waiting for it now.
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