[LaserRed97GT]

Guys,

I'm not sure a lot of guys would admit to this, but here are the facts...

Last year about this time I installed a whole bunch of stuff in my Stang, and was hoping for a great new ride. I did the PI head swap (from 03 GT) and figured, if doing heads, I should do the cams, if I do cams, I should port the heads, if I do that I want longtubes, etc.... I added a bunch of stuff (list at bottom). But I ran into an issue.

I could not find a piston stop to actually screw into the head. I still have not found one with a long enough threaded area to use correctly. So, being anxious to enjoy my newfound power, I installed the cams using the factory gears, without degreeing them.

I started it up, and had a ticking noise. It sounded like a few bad lifters. I got on the boards and started reading, and found that people having loud engines were blaming pumped up lifters. So I yanked the valve covers, removed the lifters, bled them down in the vise, and reinstalled. The noise was SIGNIFICANTLY less. I tried driving the car, and it drove fine, with only mild ticking noise coming from the engine. I drove it to work for about a week because my other car had some brake issues. It had a LOT more power and ran really smooth. The noise never went away. Instead of blowing up my engine, I decided to park it, and did not drive it for the rest of the year.

During this down time, I did a lot of research and found that I most likely was having PTV clearance issues, and sure enough, when I pulled a few plugs, I found that the intake valves have made a few "eyebrows" on the pistons. I tried to do a compression check to see if I had bent any valves, but alas, again I cannot find a compression tester with the right adaptor to fit down in the head.

I have now torn the front end of the engine back apart, and am ready to either degree the cams or replace them with something a little smaller. What do you guys think the best route to go is?

A. Grind the factory cam gears and degree the cams I have?
B. Trade/Sell the Comp Cams, and get something a little smaller
Learn from my mistake. Comp Cams 270AH will have PTV issues with PI heads on non-PI stock piston setup if not degreed.

Also, what is the best way to grind the factory gears? Should I just use a file, or should I use my die grinder?

97 Mustang GT
2003 GT (PI) Heads (ported)
Comp Cams Springs/Retainers
3 angle valve job
PI intake
Comp Cams 102600 (XE270AH) Cams
FRPP PI Head Swap Kit

Unrelated: March U/D Pulleys, BBK Ceramic Longtubes, Stage 8 Locking Bolts, BBK Xpipe, BBK 78mm Upper Plenum/TB, Aftermarket Fuel Rails & Regulator, FRPP 4.10 gears, etc....


Thanks guys.

[MustangMatt96GT]

get a dremel with a carbide bit... just takes a second... I have put 3 sets of Comp 270s in a NPI motor with PI heads... They run like a raped ape, but do fit tightly

[LaserRed97GT]

Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT get a dremel with a carbide bit... just takes a second... I have put 3 sets of Comp 270s in a NPI motor with PI heads... They run like a raped ape, but do fit tightly

Awesome thanks! Do I just remove the whole key? Then, once I do, when I put it back together how do I hold the cam in place while putting the gear/chain on? Seems like I may have to remove the followers to allow the cam to rotate freely while this is being done?

By the way, how do you find tru TDC? What piston stop do you use, or do you just use a dial indicator with a LONG extension to get down to the piston?

Thanks again!

[LaserRed97GT]

Anybody have any ideas for the piston stop? The one I have is only threaded at the bottom, and then there is a shoulder, that shoulder hits the non threaded part of the hole, and will not let it engage the threads.

What have you guys used?

Arrrgggghhhhh...

[LaserRed97GT]

Wow. No one here has ever used a piston stop on these engines?

[OFM]

Sometimes it just takes a while before you get answer just wait. We have some real knowledgeable people on this board.

[v606er]

Hi Jim!

[LaserRed97GT]

You guys is funny.

More than anything I was trying to keep the post near the top so someone might chime in.

I tried to make my own from an old spark plug, but DAMN that ceramic is really in there.

I need a vise...

[MustangMatt96GT]

Im sorry I went out of town...


there are two ways of finding TDC... the way i do with the heads on, is using a piston stop, I had to buy a Moroso piston stop though, the one that came with my degree wheel would not work.. Put the stop in when the piston is lower. Put the degree wheel on the crank with an indicator some place. Rotate it to the the counter clock wise way til it hits the stop. Record the number the wheel shows. Now go clock wise til you hit the stop. Record the number. Take the average of the number (the two numbers added, then divided by two). That is now where EXACT TDC is.

To degree the cams its kinda trial and error. I always ground the keyway a little bit and left the followers out except cylinder 1 and cylinder 6 (opposite on the firing order and have the same TDC)... THis way i can degree them and rotate the cams if need be. the Comp cams have a place to fit a wrench on, and the stock ones you can put a 3/8s rachet at the back of the cam and can turn it that way... Then once you have it wehre you want... take the cam bolt out, and put a shim (made out of a feeler gauge piece) and put it between the keyway for the cam and the gear. Then put the cam bolt in with some red lock tight and torque it to what value it needs to be.

Any other questions just holler.

[LaserRed97GT]

I was able to grind down the OD of my piston stop and make it work. Thanks.

My cam card says vvalve timing @ .050 is:
OPEN CLOSE
INT 8 BTDC 46 ABDC
EXH 56 BBDC 2 ATDC

I measured my Passenger side cam, an here is what I found

OPEN CLOSE
INT 12 BTDC 40 ABDC
EXH 60 BBDC -2 BTDC

So it looks like there is an additional 4-6 degrees on top of what COMP grinds in right? I will definitely be grinding the key. How do you usally hold the cam in place while adjusting the gear? I know there is a tool, but I'm hoping for an easier (cheaper) way. Also, what is the best position to get the dial indicator in on the drivers side? Doesn't look like enough space for it?

Thanks for your help!

[Stark77]

I was searching and came across this and wanted to add in - Comp adds in 5 degrees of advance on the 270's if I remember correctly.

[Quick99]

You may have cracked the valve guides also. Talk to Nick at www.modularheadshop.com great guy with lots of usefull info.

[LaserRed97GT]

Hey guys. This thread is a few months old and I was surprised tp see it near the top. I got it all fixed and it runs well. I started with 12* of advance on the RH head and 10* on the LH head. I ended up grinding the keyways until they matched the cam card. After that, bled down all of the lifters, and it started right up, and all of the noise was gone.

I have since installed some other mods, and took it to the dyno for an SCT tune. I took it to Benchmark Tuning in Melrose Park, IL and Mike spent about 2 hours tuning part throttle driveability. He finally did some full pulls and the fuel started leaning out at about 3500-4000 RPM. The injector duty cycle was put to 120% but it made no difference. Instead of a bandaid tune bumping fuel pressure, I decided to get bigger injectors, and come back. So I bought some 42 lb/hr green tops,. a lightning MAF and a JLT cold air, and I am going this Wednesday to get the tune finished.

By the way, with the car running out of fuel, it put down 250hp, 285lb/ft on a Mustang dyno. He expects that to jump with the new injectors. Once I get that done, we can make the nitrous tune...

Here are the final mods...

Before:
Crappy CAI, Diablosprt Delta, Plenum Spacer, ST Shifter, Rear End Girdle, O/R X-Pipe, Dynomax Ultraflo CatBack

Now:
JLT CAI, BBK 78mm plenum/tb, PI Intake & Ported PI Heads, 3 angle valve job, COMP springs locks & retainers, COMP 270AH cams (degreed!), March SFI u/d pulleys, BBK LT Ceramic Headers, BBK O/R x-pipe, 42lb/hr injectors, Lightning MAF, Dynomax Ultraflo Catback, NOS Noszle 125HP Nitrous Kit, Rhinopack Stage 2 clutch, Pro 5.0 ST shifter, FRPP 4.10 gears, MAC rear end girdle, SCT X3 tuner, Custom Tune by Benchmar Tuning, Chrome Bullitt's w/ 315/35 BFG DR's

Soon: Weld in subframe connectors, Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms w/ torque box plates, Driveshaft Safety Loop.