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Discussing NPI to PI Intake Swap... in the 96-98 Forum. Just a note, the coolant tube nipple IS required for the 96 and 97, 98 ... Modded Mustangs is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. We discuss all aspects of the Ford Mustang on the forum. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free! |
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#41 |
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Look Ma! My First Post!
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1
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Just a note, the coolant tube nipple IS required for the 96 and 97, 98 already has the style needed to replace the tube.
I also sell the complete kit on my website custommustang |
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#42 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE
Posts: 2,316
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Yes the 98 already has it and you can do the job without the nipple. I have already done 3 of them.
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Ford/Toyota tech. -93 LX, X303 heads, F-cam, Trickflow u/l, 1.6 RR, FR wires, MSD cap/rotor, Elec. fan, a/c delete, smog delete, sn95 fuel rails with BBK regulator, 75mm TB and EGR, Vortech S-trim w/intercooler, 42lb inj/PMAS, 3.55's - |
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#43 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
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I did this mod and everything was ok for about 150 miles then the check engine light came on. I could see no leaks but began to smell antifreeze. Then the light started blinking and white smoke came out of the drivers side pipe.
Any advice at this point would be appreciated. Should I buy new gaskets when I take the intake off again to find the problem? Maybe I used too much gasket maker in the trouble spot? I have had this intake on and off 3 times already because of leaks. Should I retorque the bolts after it has warmed up? |
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#44 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE
Posts: 2,316
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i would suggest NOT driving it. If youre blowing white smoke coolant is getting burned. Take the intake off ASAP and check it out. Something isnt lined up or youre not sealing properly.
__________________
Ford/Toyota tech. -93 LX, X303 heads, F-cam, Trickflow u/l, 1.6 RR, FR wires, MSD cap/rotor, Elec. fan, a/c delete, smog delete, sn95 fuel rails with BBK regulator, 75mm TB and EGR, Vortech S-trim w/intercooler, 42lb inj/PMAS, 3.55's - |
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#45 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
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Thanks, I am going to take it off this afternoon after work.
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#46 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
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ok, I took the intake back off. The gaskets were stuck to the heads by the sealant. Everything lined up. The sealant was in the correct place. (between the gasket and the head). I couldn't see a place where it looked like there was a leak. Could the antifreeze be going over the gasket, between the intake and gasket. Should I put sealant on top of the gasket, also? I'm thinking that might fix the problem. There are only 2 places it could be leaking. The 2 problem areas. If I used too much sealant would that cause a leak? It didn't appear to be too much, but I'm not sure.
By the way my car makes noticeably more power with this intake, even in the low rpm range. |
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#47 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE
Posts: 2,316
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well the problem isnt the top of the gasket because its a perfect match to the intake. im not sure what else it could be. its a brand new intake right? only way for it to burn is when it doesnt seal.
__________________
Ford/Toyota tech. -93 LX, X303 heads, F-cam, Trickflow u/l, 1.6 RR, FR wires, MSD cap/rotor, Elec. fan, a/c delete, smog delete, sn95 fuel rails with BBK regulator, 75mm TB and EGR, Vortech S-trim w/intercooler, 42lb inj/PMAS, 3.55's - |
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#48 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
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Yes, it's a new intake. I bought a kit from Florida.
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#49 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE
Posts: 2,316
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when you removed the intake, can you see dry coolant, like residue anywhere, to as a poiint where its leaking?
__________________
Ford/Toyota tech. -93 LX, X303 heads, F-cam, Trickflow u/l, 1.6 RR, FR wires, MSD cap/rotor, Elec. fan, a/c delete, smog delete, sn95 fuel rails with BBK regulator, 75mm TB and EGR, Vortech S-trim w/intercooler, 42lb inj/PMAS, 3.55's - |
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#50 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
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No dry coolant that I can detect. One thing...I checked my intake with a straight edge and the surface that mates to the heads is not straight. There is about 1/8 inch gap at the end and the high place seems to be in the middle. Both sides are like this. One not quite as bad as the other. Is this normal?
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#51 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
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Casper,
I went back on your hint and checked the old gaskets. The gasket from the driver's side has coolant all the way around the intake port in the back. I am wondering if I put too much RTV sealant in that spot. The sealant squished out to the outside of the intake mating surface and a little oozed into the water port. |
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#52 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE
Posts: 2,316
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There might be a high spot due to when you tighten it down it levels out.
And you ARE using PI gaskets right ??? And if you have coolant near the intake port, youre buring coolant. Not good. Make sure you get a good seal and tighten it down first, dont get it SUPER tight, but enough to seal. then wait a few hours and torque it. So it all doesnt spill out
__________________
Ford/Toyota tech. -93 LX, X303 heads, F-cam, Trickflow u/l, 1.6 RR, FR wires, MSD cap/rotor, Elec. fan, a/c delete, smog delete, sn95 fuel rails with BBK regulator, 75mm TB and EGR, Vortech S-trim w/intercooler, 42lb inj/PMAS, 3.55's - |
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#53 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
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I am using the PI gaskets. They have more square port openings than the teardrop shaped NPI heads. I got them at the Ford dealership.
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#54 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
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I also think you make a valid point with the warp in the intake. The bolt I torque first is the highest spot.
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#55 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3
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Wow, this has got to be one of the best write up's on a Non PI to PI intake swap, great job. But i do have a question...i bought a PI intake off of ebay (at a damn good price too, $30!) off of an 01 Grand Marquis. I understand that I have two coolant sensors, and that if you have an Aluminum Crossover, you tap it, but i do not have an Aluminum Crossover. I have the plastic one, and there is no place to put the other. So if you could please let me know what to do with the other temp sensor, it would be greatly appriciated! Thanks!
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#56 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE
Posts: 2,316
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yeah sell it and get a PI updated manifold. Because youre takin the chance of that one breaking as well as the NPI intakes. It wasnt even worth 30 bucks.
__________________
Ford/Toyota tech. -93 LX, X303 heads, F-cam, Trickflow u/l, 1.6 RR, FR wires, MSD cap/rotor, Elec. fan, a/c delete, smog delete, sn95 fuel rails with BBK regulator, 75mm TB and EGR, Vortech S-trim w/intercooler, 42lb inj/PMAS, 3.55's - |
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#57 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3
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so i cant even just tap the plastic to make a second hole for the other sensor?
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#58 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE
Posts: 2,316
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yes you can, but its plastic. Its going to lessen the durability of it even more by doing this. You can relocate the sensor to the block drain on the lower drivers side below the exhaust manifold. Its the same thread.
__________________
Ford/Toyota tech. -93 LX, X303 heads, F-cam, Trickflow u/l, 1.6 RR, FR wires, MSD cap/rotor, Elec. fan, a/c delete, smog delete, sn95 fuel rails with BBK regulator, 75mm TB and EGR, Vortech S-trim w/intercooler, 42lb inj/PMAS, 3.55's - |
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#59 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3
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what about tapping the thermostat housing? will that work at all?
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#60 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 17
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thats how mine is done, ill post pics this weekend.
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