[Casper98GT]

Well here it is. I finally got sick of waiting and I installed it. I took plenty of picstures and im writing up a "do-it-youreself" for anyone who wants a REAL guide to doing this mod. Here goes :

First open youre hood, drain the coolant and take the positive terminal off. You will be removing youre alternator and i dont think you wanna be welding with youre terminals.



While the coolant is draining you can remove youre serp belt. Some 96-98 GT's have a protector over the tensioner. Remove it with the 3 13mm nuts. Once removed, use a 1/2 ratchet and move the tensioner. Pull the belt off just the alternator. Easy installation if you leave it on other pulleys.

Next i removed my Cold Air pipe. Disconnected MAF and ATS. ( Air temp sens.) Next i disconnected all sensors from the plenum. You can leave the throttle body connected and IAC because you can remove all at once. I did remove my IAC valve because i put in a homemade IAC restrictor plate. Goes behind the IAC and makes it so youre RPM's dont hang up. Idles much better as well.

If you are looking to delete youre EGR, now is a good time. I decided not to. You can either climb under youre car and disconnect the EGR tube from the manifold, or you can just remove the 2 10mm bolts holding it to youre plenum. DONT loose the gasket. I reused mine, and you dont need a new one. If youre one of those people who needs everything perfect.... well than go right ahead and buy a new one. And last remove all vaccum hoses to the plenum.

Once thats off, remove all connectors on the Injectors and plug boots can come out as well. I didnt remove them from the coil packs, just let them hang over the front of the engine. Also disconnect the vaccum hoses from the EGR and the useless pump behind it. Dont forget the DPFE sensor on the same bracket. Now i removed the Alternator bracket and connections to the alternator. Next is the alternator itself. 2 10mm bolts and the alternator is cut on the bottom of the holes so you DONT need to take the bolts all the way out. Just enough to loosen them up.






Im sure the coolant is drained by now, so go close the pet-cock ( Yes i just typed cock ) and remove the thermostat housing, gasket, and thermostat. I installed a 180 degree at this time also.

Next is the fuel rails, i am a technician so i have all tools in my hands. But if you dont have fuel line disconnects, you can go to youre local Auto parts store and buy some. Cheap too. Disconnect the 2 fuel lines. And then remove the 4 8mm bolts holding the fuel rail to the manifold. Keep in mind these injector o-rings are old and i replaced all 16 ( 2 per injector, and 8 cylinders ) of mine.






Time to remove the intake, remove all the 10mm bolts holding it down. And dont forget to remove the coolant hose at the passengers side rear. Once off, you can yank the intake.








Now that the intake is off and out of the way remove both NPI gaskets and put rags of youre choice in the cylinder holes. This will make sure you dont get anything in there and cause a problem. Clean up the heads so they are ready for the new intake. Once they are clean remove the rags. And wipe off what ever happends to get on the head.

Next is the NPI to PI Coolant tube. Everyone tells you you need a new tube and water pump nipple.... Wrong. The water pump nipple is the same part number from 96-04 ( 1992 for the Crown vics) So its not needed. I did however put 2 new o-rings on the nipple. In the back of the drivers side head there is a 13mm bolt and back further is a 10mm bolt. Remove both and then take the clamp off the hose. Now you can shimmy it back and fourth so that it comes off. I put a rag under so it didnt get on my nice pretty motor. Then do the reverse to put the PI tube on. Reason for the tube: The PI intake is MUCH taller than the NPI intake. The NPI tube is in the way.







Next you will need (2) PI intake gaskets. The aligning holes on the heads are NOT correct for the PI gaskets. I used a pair of dykes and cut them off and used a razor blade so the tabs were not sticking out. As you can see from the pic the PI gasket DOESNT align with the coolant passage from the NPI head.




Two choice.... First if you can weld just weld a bead or 2 to the head and then grind and WHAM. Perfect. Or.... you can use 2 small dabs of silicone. Can i weld, yes. DO i find it fun... Yes. BUT i was at home and not at work. No welding equipment. So i used silicone.

Apply some silicone to the coolant passage passengers side front and drivers side rear. Place the gaskets on the head and make sure the bolt holes line up. I let mine sit for 30 minutes or so and let it get tacky. Then put the new intake on. Torque values are 15-22ft. lbs. I used 22 ft. lbs.

Now you can pretty much reverse everything you just did. The PI intake also has a new gasket for the plenum, so dont worry about it. Also is a good time to put on a Aftermarket plenum and TB and/or CAI.

Once everything is back on and looking good.... Just give it a once over. And make sure everything is ok. When installing the alternator bracket i only used 1 bolt. Do you even really need it ? NOPE. But my aftermarket plug wires are on it. I zip tied them to the bracket. If you want everything to be perfect, just go buy a PI bracket.

Put coolant in it and LET IT SIT overnight. If you have big balls, then fire it right up!! I do not i would recommend letting it sit for at least 24 hours.

Day 2: I gave it ONE last check over. Thought everything looked good and i proceeded to start it up. Idles great, no check engine light, and no leaks. It take a lil bit of time for it to warm-up and burp itself. Air pockets will always be a problem in the mod motors. Once all the air is out top it off and put the radiator cap back on.

Next i took it out for a "Block run" brought it back and checked everything again.... Next a longer drive. 30 minutes and i came back.... No leaks. Let it sit and cool off. started back up and put a little more coolant in it. No leaks still. Test drove up highway... came back and let cool down and checked for leaks. Still none.

Next i took up the highway and showed her who was boss. The pull in the upper RPM's is great. Exactly what the NPI cars needed. It keeps pulling all the way to 6k and she still wants more. Also i noticed my exhaust isnt so loud down low in the RPM's like it used to be. Im not stock, but not fully modded and it feels great. Next time PI cams.




CASPER

NOTE: If you buy a PI intake with a aluminum cross over.... you will need to have it drilled and tapped for the second coolant temp sensor. I bought the tap and did it myself. 3/8 x 18 pipe thread.

If anyone has any questions about this mod JUST ASK.... Thats why ModdedMustangs is here..... TO HELP.

[mdvaldosta]

Nice dude, anxiously awaiting

[AtlanticBlue99]

very nice write-up. i am sure this will be a topic for discussion many times down the road

[Roadhawg]

I am planning on doing a PI swap on my wife's 1995 Tbird.
I got a good deal on a set of new Motorsport PI heads and intake. So I figured I would add a little HP to the wife's Tbird. On a 1995 Tbird the fuel rails, throttlebody, egr tube, air hose, and vacuum lines are totally different. I was able to find the needed parts at a local Pick-N-Pull for $40.



I have the following items:
Ford Motorsport PI Heads
Ford Motorsport PI Intake
Ford Motorsport Head changing kit
PI Alternator Bracket
PI Water pump nipple
PI Coolant tube
1996 4.6 Fuelrail
1996 Throttlebody
1996 Plenum
1996 EGR Tube
1996 Tbird accelerator cable
1996 Tbird vaccum hoses
1996 Tbird Air Inlet




I still need to get:
PI Intake gaskets
PI Thermostat housing
Water pump O-ring

[Casper98GT]

Thanks everyone, i honestly think it took me longer to resize pics, upload them put them in my album and tpe everything up then it did to do the damn mod on my car. haha

Road, sounds like a great mod for those slugs. ( kinda like my NPI GT, haha) I have heard the T-birds need new acclerator cables for this mod, on the T-birds. But maybe im wrong. I actually know of a few guys running PI T-birds, gets them mid-low 14's. Which is a huge kick in the ass for them.

This mod is amazing, It gives that needed breathing up top. I really enjoy driving the car now.... except that its really annoying sounding if i open it up. If i drive like a grandma then its ok.

Casper

[Roadhawg]

Originally Posted by Casper98GT Road, sounds like a great mod for those slugs. ( kinda like my NPI GT, haha) I have heard the T-birds need new acclerator cables for this mod, on the T-birds. But maybe im wrong. I actually know of a few guys running PI T-birds, gets them mid-low 14's. Which is a huge kick in the ass for them. Casper

I have the accelerator cable also. Looks like I'm going to throw a 3.55 rear with a Tloc also. Hmmmm..... I'm starting to think I am taking this a little to far for my wife's gorcery getter.

[Casper98GT]

Does youre wife know about any of this ? haha. It wont be too bad with the 3.55s. Its not going to be a hotrod by any means, but it will get out of its own way. And no one will expect it. I know i would be laughing if you pulled up next to me and gave me a run.

[Drgnracin72]

nicely done!

[Bill]

very nice write up casper

[crowdesign]

Awesome dude,

[xx9gt6xx]

Casper, send me a write up via e-mail when you get finished w/ it. PM me when you have it done and I'll give you my e-mail.

-Bryan

[Casper98GT]

Bryan..... sorry but im confused.... Done with the PI intake swap ? Cause its been up for a long time now.

[xx9gt6xx]

No the write up, I know you've had it done for a while.

BTW how was the track?

[Casper98GT]

The Writeup is right here ? I dont get it. lol.


The track ? It sucked. Best i could manage was a 14.23@99.97mph. It was again a friends Turbo LS1 Firehawk. And his time was 11.2@127. I wasnt sure how the track was going to be and considering im still on street tires i have to be careful at the line. But the track was actually pretty sticky. So i should have launched higher than normal. But i didnt like a jackass. BUT... there was a spill and it took forever. Then they stop racing to clean and i had enough so i left.

I'll do better next time. My best trap last year was a 99 mph. This time around i was nailing 99 everytime out. Just 14.4, 14.5, 14.3.... O well. There is always next time. I beat a Golf with 24psi. lol. He wasnt happy that i only have 210 RWHP.

[Drgnracin72]

HEY BRYAN COPY AND PASTE IT INTO A WORD DOCUMENT AND SAVE IT ON YOUR COMP. ITS EASY!

[jorstang]

Great info Casper. I have a question though. A month or so after I got my 96gt I did a few burnouts and later noticed coolant leaking all over...long story short, I cracked the stock intake manifold and had to take it to the ford dealership. They put the new and improved manifold on with the aluminum cross over tube. Now, is that the same one you installed yourself or is the "PI" manifold different than the one I had installed. I was just wondering as I was told by another individual the PI intake would not work with stock cylinder heads....or do you have PI heads as well? I was told that though my new manifold has the metal crossover, it was most likely not a PI intake. I am new to this stuff, but I would surely say my new manifold is "performance improved." Let me know. Thanks

[Drgnracin72]

i belive in order for the PI intake to work you also have to have the PI heads also. so if they told you they put the PI intake on they prolly screwed you over. but anyways dont quote me on hat but i think thats hwo it works!

[jorstang]

No the tech didn't say they put a "P.I." intake on...I was just told it was a better one and is the same as the 99+ mustangs have....Basically that it wont crack when temp gets a little warm like the stock ones are known to do. I was just wondering because I didn't remember reading that Casper had swaped his heads too....

[Drgnracin72]

all of the 99 on mustangs have the pi intake and heads so if they told you they out that one on they lied to you! hope they didnt but.....if thats what they said they did

[Casper98GT]

jorstang.... they couldnt have put the PI intake on. Youre intake is the revised intake with aluminum cross-over in it. They revised it so like you said it wont crack like the older versions would. I did this write up to show everyone the PI CAN work with the NPI heads. Just a few mod's and it will work. Its not expensive and didnt take me long. 3 hours from start to finish. taking my time and letting it sit overnight. Then letting it sit overnight to make sure the silicone cured.

So , no you didnt get the PI intake. Open youre hood and look at the air tubes in the intake, then look at the pic i posted of the pi intake air ports. the PI ports are MUCH fatter and provide much more air.