Upgrading to cobra crankshaft ?
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Old October 25th, 2010, 08:26 PM   #1
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Upgrading to cobra crankshaft ?


Hi well seems I have blown my GT engine time to buy a forged kit going to go with the 8 bolt cobra crankshaft, I know I will need an 8 bolt flywheel, but is their anything else I will need? Thank you
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Old October 26th, 2010, 05:08 PM   #2
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No, I think everything else will swap over. Are you upgrading the heads or cams while you rebuild it?
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Old October 26th, 2010, 07:34 PM   #3
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I will probably just stick with my 2v heads I just spent a ton of money on a pi swap and now this.
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Old October 28th, 2010, 02:41 PM   #4
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Complete mach 1 engine in a 96 gt


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Old October 28th, 2010, 05:10 PM   #5
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i think you will need an 11" clutch and pp
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Originally Posted by XTCNAGT View Post
That's what you get for excercising.

You think my lungs and chest hurt when I drive down the road for a triple baconator? No. You know why? Cause I'm smart.

Time for a nap.
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Old October 28th, 2010, 05:59 PM   #6
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Just drop a 5.4 in it or a pi 4.6 or something. The crank isnt the weak point. Its the rods.
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Old October 28th, 2010, 07:43 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by sharkbait View Post
Just drop a 5.4 in it or a pi 4.6 or something. The crank isnt the weak point. Its the rods.

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Old October 28th, 2010, 08:52 PM   #8
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Just drop a 5.4 in it or a pi 4.6 or something. The crank isnt the weak point. Its the rods.
I would if I could find a food 2v forged long block for a decent price I have looked all over literally and the best I have found is MMR's 600 but for the long block it's around 4500.00. I am wanting to stay below 3500.00--shipped I have checked every forum classified site for the last week, but no good. eBay has a Mach 1 engine for 3500.00 but I really don't want to cut a big hole in my new hood and their is no shaker kit for a 96-98, also I would like for it to be forged. If I am going to replace it I should do it right. If anyone has a good deal on an engine PLEASE let me know.

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Old October 28th, 2010, 10:19 PM   #9
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just get some forged rods and pistons. you dont need to bother with the crank as most of our cranks will hold up to what 95% of us want to achieve (>600-700hp)
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Originally Posted by XTCNAGT View Post
That's what you get for excercising.

You think my lungs and chest hurt when I drive down the road for a triple baconator? No. You know why? Cause I'm smart.

Time for a nap.
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Old October 28th, 2010, 10:25 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by zigbigadoru View Post
just get some forged rods and pistons. you dont need to bother with the crank as most of our cranks will hold up to what 95% of us want to achieve (>600-700hp)
True the problem is my mechanic swears up and down that if I get a short block, or forge the block I have that it will end up costing me more than just buying a new long block. He says if will nickle and dime me to death with all the labor gaskets and machine work.
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Old October 31st, 2010, 01:34 PM   #11
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it wont cost you more, but it might seem like it. it WILL nickel and dime you to death if youre not careful or dont collect parts beforehand
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Originally Posted by XTCNAGT View Post
That's what you get for excercising.

You think my lungs and chest hurt when I drive down the road for a triple baconator? No. You know why? Cause I'm smart.

Time for a nap.
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Old October 31st, 2010, 01:50 PM   #12
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Well after much much debating I bought a complete new mustang bullet engine. I am dropping in the bullet engine and rebuilding my old block through the winter. I am gonna take my time on the rebuild and buy all of the parts from different forums I know if your patient you can find some real good deals especially around xmas.

We have a place here in town that buys totaled mustangs rebuilds, and resells them. So I am going to get one of their cars without an engine and drop in my rebuilt one. Then I will have 2 mustangs I don't mind to buy cars with rebuilt titles because I will never sell them. I have 3 boys and they will all need a car one day too.
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Old October 31st, 2010, 04:27 PM   #13
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Find a new mechanic who knows how to build engines.

He's right about the forged price, but a new long block will still have cast rods if it's on the same price range.

My recommendation is to PI swap, and do the forged rods and pistons. When your block is out and getting the machine work to match the pistons, have them magnaflux the block. It will check them for cracks.

When it comes to the bottom end, it's straight forward, so do the wrench work yourself.

Last edited by fmxona500; October 31st, 2010 at 04:34 PM.
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