Throw out bearing issues

bbrewer03 · April 14th, 2011, 02:09 PM

So, since the factory clutch I've had two clutches. First installed was a SPEC and immediately after installation it was never right. The spec throw out bearing was also installed. The clutch slipped (I believe the flywheel was not clean or something was on it causing the slip) and the throw out bearing started squeeling. I understand those tobs are just plain bad, so with the clutch and tob issues I decided I was going to do the job myself. Bought a RAM clutch and a ford racing throwout bearing. Installed everything the proper direction and with the proper torque. (Also installed quadrant and new cable) Clutch is 1000 times better and everything was smooth as silk, then the tob started grinding when the clutch was disengaged (just to be clear, as I push the petal to the floor) The sounds is kind of like a coffee can full of bb's only louder and much more painful to hear. The problem got a little worse and the grinding continued. If I put the trans in a neutral state and release the clutch petal the tob squeaks and goes on, but also sounds like it wobbles and creates a vibration.

So, I crawled under the car and popped off the tob/cable arm dust cover and peaked inside. First thing I found was what appears to be a pin/stud that should be pressed into the flywheel for alignment of the pressure plate. So that's not good. Everything else looked normal at first glance then I had my wife depress the clutch pedal. Instead of seeing the tob and arm slide along the input shaft I saw the arm and tob around a metal sleeve and the metal sleeve was sliding back and forth. This metal sleeve is approximately 6 - 8 inches long. I dont remember seeing a metal sleeve on the input shaft of the transmission and forgive me, i'm not a trans guy. Removing the trans I would have thought I'd noticed that this metal sleeve that could have slid off the input shaft.

So now, after reading a couple things here and there I'm curious if this metal sleeve should be held in a stationary place by the trans and not allowed to move with the tob and arm. I'm also wondering if the metal peice I found that looked like a stud out of the flywheel was in fact a bearing for the input shaft of the trans.

As I said, I'm not a trans guy, but I suspect I've got a not so good problem here. Sorry for being long winded. Any help or advice appreciated.

MustangTim · April 14th, 2011, 05:13 PM

From what you're describing, it almost sounds like the bearing retainer broke and is now sliding freely on the input shaft. Can you get us a picture?

bbrewer03 · April 14th, 2011, 05:49 PM

Well I ran by AAMCO and just had them throw it up on the rack. Rack vs Jack stands............it's a lot easier to see. You could plainly see the tube part of the bearing retainer had broke off. I hope the input shaft is not damaged.

Now from what I've read the bearing retainer is a replaceable part on my model t45 trans. I'm trying to get access to a buddies lift so I can take the trans out for a 3rd time.

Thanks for the input. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Kohrs93 · April 14th, 2011, 06:39 PM

.

MustangTim · April 15th, 2011, 12:14 AM

Yikes! That sucks. Any guess as to why it would break off like that? Was something misaligned?

LoveStangs88 · April 15th, 2011, 01:31 AM

Ouch! hope its nothing to expensive or troublesome for ya, il be doing my clutch here soon and the fear is even bigger now oh man i cant screw it up >.< the small pin could be the dowel pin for the flywheel but GL bro.

April 14th, 2011, 02:09 PM	#1
bbrewer03 Regular 1997 Mustang GT Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Kentucky Posts: 178 iTrader: 0 reviews	Throw out bearing issues So, since the factory clutch I've had two clutches. First installed was a SPEC and immediately after installation it was never right. The spec throw out bearing was also installed. The clutch slipped (I believe the flywheel was not clean or something was on it causing the slip) and the throw out bearing started squeeling. I understand those tobs are just plain bad, so with the clutch and tob issues I decided I was going to do the job myself. Bought a RAM clutch and a ford racing throwout bearing. Installed everything the proper direction and with the proper torque. (Also installed quadrant and new cable) Clutch is 1000 times better and everything was smooth as silk, then the tob started grinding when the clutch was disengaged (just to be clear, as I push the petal to the floor) The sounds is kind of like a coffee can full of bb's only louder and much more painful to hear. The problem got a little worse and the grinding continued. If I put the trans in a neutral state and release the clutch petal the tob squeaks and goes on, but also sounds like it wobbles and creates a vibration. So, I crawled under the car and popped off the tob/cable arm dust cover and peaked inside. First thing I found was what appears to be a pin/stud that should be pressed into the flywheel for alignment of the pressure plate. So that's not good. Everything else looked normal at first glance then I had my wife depress the clutch pedal. Instead of seeing the tob and arm slide along the input shaft I saw the arm and tob around a metal sleeve and the metal sleeve was sliding back and forth. This metal sleeve is approximately 6 - 8 inches long. I dont remember seeing a metal sleeve on the input shaft of the transmission and forgive me, i'm not a trans guy. Removing the trans I would have thought I'd noticed that this metal sleeve that could have slid off the input shaft. So now, after reading a couple things here and there I'm curious if this metal sleeve should be held in a stationary place by the trans and not allowed to move with the tob and arm. I'm also wondering if the metal peice I found that looked like a stud out of the flywheel was in fact a bearing for the input shaft of the trans. As I said, I'm not a trans guy, but I suspect I've got a not so good problem here. Sorry for being long winded. Any help or advice appreciated. __________________ 1997 GT Cobra R Hood, Cobra Front bumper, MSD plug wires, Tailights, Projector headlights, 18x9 chrome bullet wheels in front and 18x10s in back, Tunable Induction Cold air intake, flowmaster mufflers. 4.10 Gears.

April 14th, 2011, 05:49 PM	#3
bbrewer03 Regular 1997 Mustang GT Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Kentucky Posts: 178 iTrader: 0 reviews	Well I ran by AAMCO and just had them throw it up on the rack. Rack vs Jack stands............it's a lot easier to see. You could plainly see the tube part of the bearing retainer had broke off. I hope the input shaft is not damaged. Now from what I've read the bearing retainer is a replaceable part on my model t45 trans. I'm trying to get access to a buddies lift so I can take the trans out for a 3rd time. Thanks for the input. I'll let you know how it turns out. __________________ 1997 GT Cobra R Hood, Cobra Front bumper, MSD plug wires, Tailights, Projector headlights, 18x9 chrome bullet wheels in front and 18x10s in back, Tunable Induction Cold air intake, flowmaster mufflers. 4.10 Gears.

April 15th, 2011, 01:31 AM	#6
LoveStangs88 Regular 96 Mustang GT B There 1 Day. Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Aurora, CO Posts: 460 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ouch! hope its nothing to expensive or troublesome for ya, il be doing my clutch here soon and the fear is even bigger now oh man i cant screw it up >.< the small pin could be the dowel pin for the flywheel but GL bro. __________________ PI Manifold. FRPP. Steeda. Magnaflow. BBK. Accufab. RAM. MGW. MSD. NGK. NTK. Billet. J&M. Powerslot. Hawk. Walbro. Motul. Fel-Pro. Dupli-color.

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April 14th, 2011, 05:13 PM	#2
MustangTim Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 13 iTrader: 0 reviews	From what you're describing, it almost sounds like the bearing retainer broke and is now sliding freely on the input shaft. Can you get us a picture?

April 15th, 2011, 12:14 AM	#5
MustangTim Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 13 iTrader: 0 reviews	Yikes! That sucks. Any guess as to why it would break off like that? Was something misaligned?

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