[sn95mustanggt]

So today i bought lowering springs for my mustang. I got ford racing c series springs. Any tips on the install?

[john98]

unbolt your rear sway bar and jack up the opposite side to get the rears in, so much easier

[sn95mustanggt]

Does anyone have a link to a write up?

[JoshC!]

Once I'm home I'll see if I can do a lil write up for ya. Right now I'm on my phone.

[fastpony]

When i did mine, i got h&r ss springs, tokico shock and struts. I took out the paneling in the trunk because i needed to get to the rear shocks to take them out. i then placed the car on jack stands and the jack under the rear axle. I let the axle down a little bit and took a screw driver big enough, and i believe either a 15mm or a 17 mm wrench and unbolted both the shock in the rear, unbolted the shock from the rear axle to get it outta the way, (size of bolt and nut escapes me) once shock it out of the way lowered the rear axle to where the brake lines were almost tight. the spring was almost loose just needed someone on the other side to lift axle/jiggle axle to get the spring out. make sure when you place springs in, the bottom iso and top iso say where they are suppose to, and make sure when placing the spring back in you cleaned the isos. also place spring in where the bottom of the coil ends goes into the indentations that are in the lower control are. once you have both springs in and isos in, start to jack up rear axle and reinstall the shocks that same way you unbolted them accept use lube so they pivot points dont squeak. and bolt up rear end. recheck everything.

front:
unbolt the front one side at a time. place car in jack stands, unbolt the caliper, unbolt the sway bar link, and unbolt the tie rod end. i for get the socket sizes and wrench sizes, but when undoing the swaybar( i believe it is a 15mm wrench) you will need two wrenched to unbolt the sway bar from the link. unbolt the top nut and leave the sway bar on link,
now for the tie rod end. you need to straighten the cotter pin, and remove. now place x# socket of tie rod end. unbolt it to the very top of the threads. take a BFH (BIG FUCKIN HAMMER) IMPORTANT do not bang on the tie rod end but where the end goes into. hit the spindle and that should jar enough where the tie rod end will be ready to come out. now take the socket you were using on the bolt for the tie rod end and leave it on the tie rod end. use the hammer and hit the tie rod end a couple of times hard. once it comes out. place jack under the a arm. jack up a arm a little, now go up top under the hood. use the same screw driver and right size wrench and unbolt the bolt on the strut. once you unbolt the strut. go back down and unbolt the strut from the spindle. and remove shock, and remove the upper bushing for the sway bar link and remove the socket and nut for the tie rod end and allow tie rod end to hang. stand out of the way and lower the a arm slow. keep an eye on the sway bar link. allow the sway bar link to become disconnected when you can, and watch your hands. now lower the a arm all the way it will pretty much want to let the spring out. now if it doesnt come out. take a big enough object to pry the spring out, and lots of either wd40 or jb80 spray lube and spray around the spring. once spring is removed take the iso's and clean them up as well as the a arm. the lower will be wrapped around the spring. place the new spring and isos back to to where the indentations are and jack the arm back up. make sure when jacking up the a arm you get the sway back link into the sway bar, and bolt the strut on with one bolt and put the strut through the strut tower. once you have the strut through the hold place other bolt into the strut and bolt up the sway bar, and reinstall the tie rod end and you can either reuse the cotter pin or buy a new one if undamaged. make sure everything tight i mean tight. now tighten the strut under the hood and lower the a arm back down and re install the caliper and pads. re check everything is tight. and repeat on other side.


this whole procedure took me 6 to 8 hours.

[fastpony]

ohh and be very generous with how high you lift the car up to place it on jacks you are going to need room. and watch everything and do not rush. and when take the car off the jacks you are going to need to place 2x4 under the tires so you back remove the jack from under the car.

[tfofkyle]

writeup: Mustangworld Progressive Rate Springs Install

quick tips: when doing the rears - remove rear sway bar, unbolt rear shocks and drop the whole assembly with the rear control arms still on - if you have stock control arms - the bushings should drop down enough for you to be able to remove your stock springs with a swift kick from the side. if running poly bushing control arms like me - youre screwed. gotta undo the control arms and essentially drop the whole rear.

for the front - remove the brake caliper and tuck aside, undo the sway bar from the end links, unbolt the entire strut assembly from under the hood and compress by hand - pull it out of the fenderwell, being careful not to scratch your paint. having a friend with a pry bar help - another swift kick should remove your stock springs. going to need a pry bar and help to put your new ones in if your new springs are anything like my b springs were.

[JoshC!]

looks like some guys already got ya taken care of lol reps to both you guys

[1996 GT]

Hahahah i just did springs on mine tonight. Make sure you compress them well man, plus i used a massive pry bar and had my dad push that down while i pushed the spring in. pictures when its done?

[tfofkyle]

Originally Posted by JoshC looks like some guys already got ya taken care of lol reps to both you guys

appreciated! reps back

[fastpony]

thanks for the reps