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#1 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1996 Mustang GT
13.64@101mph
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetss
Posts: 5,830
![]() ![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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wheel studs
hey guys...i was working on the car tonight and popped my wheel studs off the rear axle and was gonna put the replacement studs in a got from the zone but im thinking i might sell them to a buddy and go get some 3in studs for all 4 corners..there not much more than normal studs..ive got my draglites going on over pbr brakes so i wanna run my 1" spacers up front but dont trust stock studs...and i wanna start running 1" spacers in the rear with my 18X10's cuz they dont fit flush enough with the wheel well lip...my question is i know the studs are 1/2x20 but whats the knurl on these? ive read i think fronts are different from front and rear..and THANK god i have no abs and non abs axles..makes doing the rears a sinch! lol
ive read .594 knurl on the front hubs and .615 knurl on the rear axles..just wanna make sure before i order these..now to find some open ended lug nuts too...wonder if they make any black open enders...hmmm
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![]() 1990 GT- GT40p Heads| Anderson N41 cam| Crane 1.6 RR's| Trickflow Intake|MGW Short Throw| Aluminum d/s| 3.73's.....still slow.... |
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1998 Mustang GT
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,282
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you should just get some arp ones. granted you have to drill out your hubs a little to fit them but they are nice and not really expensive. and i have seen black before but i forget where. sorry i sont know the answer to your question tho
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pi swapped and dropped sn95 |
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#3 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1996 Mustang GT
13.64@101mph
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetss
Posts: 5,830
![]() ![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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yeah im seeing moroso ones on LRS that say those sizes for like $12 for a set of 5...all arp's im seeing are like $20 per set of 5...and ive seen TONS of drag cars running moroso's..so if its good enough for a 8 second car its good enough for my turd lol and i dont think you have to drill out the hubs with these..and i thought the fronts are splined in like the rears? drilling it out kind eliminates any kinda hold from spinning right?
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![]() 1990 GT- GT40p Heads| Anderson N41 cam| Crane 1.6 RR's| Trickflow Intake|MGW Short Throw| Aluminum d/s| 3.73's.....still slow.... |
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#4 |
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Rollin' 18/ pushin' 2
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Yes, the easiest way to get them in is to line them up and use a press. Unfortunately I don't have a press so I attached the rotor and used a spacer and a lugnut to pull them through. It wasn't easy but it did the job.
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#5 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1996 Mustang GT
13.64@101mph
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetss
Posts: 5,830
![]() ![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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yeah i was thinking doing this exact method...lining them up and using my old junk rotors and some crappy lug nuts then start them by hand and finish them off with an impact
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![]() 1990 GT- GT40p Heads| Anderson N41 cam| Crane 1.6 RR's| Trickflow Intake|MGW Short Throw| Aluminum d/s| 3.73's.....still slow.... |
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#6 |
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June 2010 ROTM
2000
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 1,539
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Also, use some anti sieze as lubricant between the lugs and hubs.
I used an electric impact gun to pull mine in. Worked like a charm. Piece of cake. I bought all my studs from Steeda. They are made by ARP. Some guys will tell you that you "Need" to remove the rear axles to get the studs in. You DONT. But you may have to dremel down the base of the stud just a drop to make it fit. Its been a long time since I did it, so, I dont remember the details further than that.
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HPDE Instructor PCA, HOD, Track Guys, ERME www.RaceCarTowHooks.com My Track Videos http://www.youtube.com/user/Msirlin My Garage page: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-member-17090/
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#7 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1996 Mustang GT
13.64@101mph
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetss
Posts: 5,830
![]() ![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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lol they also told me i needed to pull the axles to even get the stockers out...few smacks will my dead blow...boom there done and out lol
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![]() 1990 GT- GT40p Heads| Anderson N41 cam| Crane 1.6 RR's| Trickflow Intake|MGW Short Throw| Aluminum d/s| 3.73's.....still slow.... |
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#8 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1998 Mustang GT
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,282
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so im interested now cuz i was gonna go with arp but if you dont have to drill for the moroso ones that sounds better. do you know how much longer the moroso ones are than stock?
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pi swapped and dropped sn95 |
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#9 | |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1996 Mustang GT
13.64@101mph
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetss
Posts: 5,830
![]() ![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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they are 3" studs were as i think stocks are like 1.25"...from what im seeing is the arp's rear knurl is .625 and need to be drilled..the moroso's are .615...so im hoping this means no drilling..i mean honestly if they do need to be drilled i really dont care...ill just drill it out..not that hard..just need to find out what drill bit i need to make a diameter to fit those... they are saying there shipping out thursday so i doubt ill get them in this week..so i wont be able to put them in until the following weekend but when they do ill post up pics and info in my build thread to show how it turned out
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![]() 1990 GT- GT40p Heads| Anderson N41 cam| Crane 1.6 RR's| Trickflow Intake|MGW Short Throw| Aluminum d/s| 3.73's.....still slow.... |
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#10 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1998 Mustang GT
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,282
![]() iTrader: 2 reviews
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sweet cuz im wanting to do some wheel studs but i want to see some actual products being used so i can make my desicion
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pi swapped and dropped sn95 |
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#11 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1996 Mustang GT
13.64@101mph
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetss
Posts: 5,830
![]() ![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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lol yeah i guess ill guinea pig on this one lol
__________________
![]() 1990 GT- GT40p Heads| Anderson N41 cam| Crane 1.6 RR's| Trickflow Intake|MGW Short Throw| Aluminum d/s| 3.73's.....still slow.... |
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#12 |
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Regular
04 GT
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SOMD
Posts: 279
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Did you ever get this sorted out?
I'm waiting for feedback to see if moroso or ARP is the way to go. |
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#13 |
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!FACEPLATED!
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Either or is fine. We have used both products in numerous vehicles.
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#14 |
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Regular
04 GT
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SOMD
Posts: 279
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ARP's need drilling right? The part that presses in is knurled so how does it work when you drill smooth round holes?
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#15 |
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Proud American
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I didnt have to drill out my for my ARP's I just pulled them in haha took a little more work with the impact, but it got the job done...
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RIP Travis Billings ![]() Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars |
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#16 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1996 Mustang GT
13.64@101mph
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Massachusetss
Posts: 5,830
![]() ![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
|
sorry guys been busy with part out....but no i bought the moroso's from summit..best price through ebay...paid like $55 shipped for all 20...well 19 showed up lol so i emailed them...they sent me out another 5 pack and told me to keep the 4 for the inconvience lol
but yeah i just tapped out the old (well new cuz there new hubs) with a dead blow...then slide the new ones in, used an open ended lug nut, and went real slow to find the splines...and then just tightend em in...they went in just like stockers no problems no issues..and this crap of the moroso's NOT being 3" is stupid...cuz my moroso's came in at exactly 3"....so then the arp's are longer the moroso's are not shorter than advertized... i just watched a good friend have to drill out his to fit the arps they that mm told him would just pop in....
__________________
![]() 1990 GT- GT40p Heads| Anderson N41 cam| Crane 1.6 RR's| Trickflow Intake|MGW Short Throw| Aluminum d/s| 3.73's.....still slow.... |
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#17 |
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Regular
04 GT
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SOMD
Posts: 279
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I did mine friday. It was a bitch because I had to grind a flat in them to clear the ABS ring on the axle. I have a 2004 though.
I took pictures for a write up. I can post here if anyone wants to see... Basicly: -remove the wheel -remove the caliper -remove the rotor -remove the rotor shield -beat the studs out with a hammer -slide the new studs in from behind (I had to grind a flat spot on the big end to clear the abs reluctor ring) -Use a open ended lug nut you don't mind screwing up to pull the new stud thru. (be careful that the stud starts straight) -Repeat 10 times * Took about 4-5 hours but I cleaned and painted all the parts I removed before re-installing and polished my wheels inside and out because they were off. 2 out of 5 hammers on the difficulty scale. Easy but takes a bit of time gringing the studs and pulling them all thru. |
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#18 |
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June 2010 ROTM
2000
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 1,539
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Grinding the studs is the only way without pulling the axles...
I pulled the axles.
__________________
HPDE Instructor PCA, HOD, Track Guys, ERME www.RaceCarTowHooks.com My Track Videos http://www.youtube.com/user/Msirlin My Garage page: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-member-17090/
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#19 |
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Regular
04 GT
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SOMD
Posts: 279
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So how did you get the reluctor ring off once you did pull the axles?
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#20 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1998 Mustang GT
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,282
![]() iTrader: 2 reviews
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good to know about the moroso's. i didnt hear anything about them being less than 3". thats what it was listed as and the arp's are 3.5"
anyways lets see some pics
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