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#1 |
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Regular
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98 gt first build
Hey guys I recently discovered my new to me 98gt has a blown head gasket. So I decided to build the motor while I have it all apart. This is the first time ive really delved into the eternals on a motor so it most defiantly will be a learning experience. I need some suggestions On what set up I should go with. Here’s what I am looking to achieve... I want cams, new intake, plenum, throttle body and heads as well. I realize ill have to at least get pi heads. Im in the process of getting a mishimoto radiator and new overflow because my stock one is clogged up. Suggestions on brands? Size of the cam? Size of the tb? Should I do injectors as well? I have a tuner and I no that I will need to get her tuned after its back together. Anything else that you all feel could be helpful. Thanks in advance
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1998 Mustang GT
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,282
![]() iTrader: 2 reviews
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As far as heads PI will be jest fine and can be had pretty cheap then you could port and polish. while your taking everything apart you should spend the money and get a complete FRA with some nice dished pistons to keep your compression down. then have the pi heads to go ontop with some nice stage 2 cams brand of your choice (check out modularheadshop, MMR, hitech, or comp cams). then for intake pi intake does pretty good. or you can get the victor jr efi intake or if you have a ton of money find a complete bullit intake. as far as TB and plenum most people go with the bbk 78mm because its one piece and not too expensive or you can get the 75mm setup from accufab. after all that you can get a nice set of 24lbers with matching maf then tune it all together.
BUT...first i should have asked what your spending limits and final goal for the motor (NA or Boosted/ hp range)
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pi swapped and dropped sn95 |
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#3 |
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Regular
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Thats alot of good info thanks. My spending limit is however much all this is gonna cost. haha. But Im doing this a little at a time due to other bills. I drive my v6 as my daily so the 98gt is my project. My final goal is a n/a motor with at least 300 hp. I wouldnt mind 400 but i think thats pushing it with the 2v 4.6 n/a?
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#4 |
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Regular
1996 mustang GT
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: vandenberg afb, ca
Posts: 357
![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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400 with a na 4.6 non pi is a bit hard and very expensive. You should.boost it to see those numbers.
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#5 |
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Banned
1997 cougar 4.6 1/2PI
TooFast4theFUZZ
Join Date: May 2011
Location: se wi
Posts: 991
![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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if you need some 24's and a 80mm calibrated mafs i got some for you for...
and if i were you, go with a 75mm Tbody and plenum, get either a typhoon manifold (i love mine) or a bullit and get the oval Tbody and intake setup, id do PI heads and stage 1 cams and have them degreed a bit to run the stock pistons,headers exhaust and tuner..but if ur budget building like i do, get on craigslist as 4.6 performance parts are to be found all day for cheap and buy the best you can find..i got my typhoon manifold brand new for 250 bucks and a 75mm plenum and Tbody for 100 bucks brandnew also.. |
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#6 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1997 Pacific Green Cobra
14.80 No traction
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 1,216
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hitech stage 2 cams would be best. they already almost make 300rwhp before bolt ons. so after bolt ons you will get there fast.
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GT ENGINE (temporary) 4.30 Gears , 31 spline Moser axles , Detroit tru Trac diff, Jmod 4r70w , Pi intake Hitech stage 2 cam, Vortech V2 3.33 pulley. Alum drive shaft. Lowering kit x2 ball joints ,screamin demon coils, LCA " |
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#7 |
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Regular
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Thanks guys. What about the size of the injectors and maf size? Is there a certian size that works best or what? Also fuel rails should I keep the stockers or new ones?
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#8 |
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Regular
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#9 |
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Newbie
1998 gt
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Redding, California
Posts: 45
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sc it if u wanna get their fast. hi tech stage 2 cams are one of the best and i agree with p4ndiamond. a guy here with stock heads and hi tech stage 2 cams with full bolt ons on a pi motor ran a 12.16 i believe. 75mm for tb.
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vortech v1 strim intercooled with lots of goodies , 4.10s, built rear end, pi intake, 78mm bbk tb, SCT tuner, bassani with flowmaster 44, mega bite jr lca, J@M full length subframe connectors, tuned by AED. and more suspension mods
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#10 |
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Regular
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Anybody on the fuel setup ?
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#11 |
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Rollin' 18/ pushin' 2
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Subframe connectors, rear end gears, exhaust. You are leaving out alot of stuff by just concentrating on the motor. If you hit the 300 crank hp mark I would suggest 24lb injectors and a 80mm maf. You will need to get a maf that is calibrated for the injectors or have one programmed for the proper size as well as adjust it in your tune. To actually get 300RWhp out of a pi swap your going to need more than stock pi heads and cams. The best advice I can give you is to look at all your options and learn what you need before you actually buy anything. Otherwise your just pissing your money away on parts that you will need to upgrade later on.
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![]() MODS IN GARAGE NCMM ORIGINAL BLOWN 96-98 CREW MEMBER # 1 |
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#12 |
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Regular
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I understand that I will need other things. But I am only concentrating on the motor at the moment. So what your saying with stock pi heads and a stage 2 cam as well as a typhoon intake and boltons i cant make 300 to the wheels?
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#13 |
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Rollin' 18/ pushin' 2
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no. Your gonna need p&p'd heads and bigger than stock cams. The typhoon intake has no power gains over a stock pi intake on it's own. The advantage to the typhoon is it is all metal and can be p&p'd and will not crack.
You have to remember that your car only had 225 CRANK hp from the factory. That's around 190 RWhp. Your trying to get over a 150% increase in power and that's going to be hard to do with stock pi parts and bolt ons. You may want to look at a stroker kit and over bore if you are intent on staying N/A. Whatever cams you get will need to be degree'd in as well.
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![]() MODS IN GARAGE NCMM ORIGINAL BLOWN 96-98 CREW MEMBER # 1 |
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#14 |
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Regular
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Gotcha thanks for your help man.
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