97 SVT oil pan replacement

88TempoGLS · January 13th, 2012, 11:19 PM

Any of you know what all you need to pull/ do to replace an oil pan on a 1997 Cobra? My friend has one and is looking to have the pan replaced at the shop i work at. Labor guide calls for 8 hours to do it. Does it require pulling the engine or dropping the front suspension?

wraitherx · January 13th, 2012, 11:22 PM

it would be easier to just drop the K

88TempoGLS · January 13th, 2012, 11:27 PM

I'm reading through a removal procedure from one of the website we use at my work. It says to remove the transmission

lakesidecustoms · January 13th, 2012, 11:28 PM

If he takes it to the dealer they wont pull the engine. They will drop the sub frame to get to it. Its not that bad if you have a twin post lift to do on and right tools. The engine will have to be supported from the top. It can be done in your shop at home if you have a good skill level and tools. I have been in the business for 20 years I would have no problem doing it but with out the tools and skills dont attempt it. Try a local shop other than the dealer to compare price. Hope this helps you out.

wraitherx · January 13th, 2012, 11:30 PM

i think that they are talking about dropping it, unbolting the bolts, then sliding it out. I still think that supporting the engine then dropping the K would be sooo much easier.

88TempoGLS · January 13th, 2012, 11:42 PM

Originally Posted by lakesidecustoms

If he takes it to the dealer they wont pull the engine. They will drop the sub frame to get to it. Its not that bad if you have a twin post lift to do on and right tools. The engine will have to be supported from the top. It can be done in your shop at home if you have a good skill level and tools. I have been in the business for 20 years I would have no problem doing it but with out the tools and skills dont attempt it. Try a local shop other than the dealer to compare price. Hope this helps you out.

I am the local shop, but i've never really dont an oil pan gasket on a Mustang before. I'm sure my co workers will be able to help out. We have 2 dual post lifts, and for this kind of job, yea, that's what i'd be using.

I'm just trying to get an idea of what i'm in for. Last thing i want to do is mess anything up on this car. I have a few years of experience under my belt, but this isnt your every day cobra.

wraitherx · January 13th, 2012, 11:45 PM

nice looking snake... its not bad at all

88TempoGLS · January 13th, 2012, 11:46 PM

5L forged stroker, not sure if he made it back to the dyno, but he said they were going to be bumping up the boost a little bit and he should be around the 450HP mark.

lakesidecustoms · January 13th, 2012, 11:54 PM

If you have a lift you might be able to pull the trans and slide it out. I have never done it that way. I am not sure if you have the room to drop the pan down enough to get off the oil sump. Keep us posted on your progress.

88TempoGLS · January 14th, 2012, 12:16 AM

Originally Posted by lakesidecustoms

If you have a lift you might be able to pull the trans and slide it out. I have never done it that way. I am not sure if you have the room to drop the pan down enough to get off the oil sump. Keep us posted on your progress.

i'll be sure to take pics. Like i said above, i work for "the small shop" so i have lifts and just about any tool you can think of. I hope it all goes smooth.

deedub97GT · January 14th, 2012, 03:15 AM

the tranny HAS GOT TO come out to get the pan off. found this out when i was putting in the return line on my turbo. and the fron suspension needs to be dropped. if you have a lift its 4 or 8 bolts and then lift the car and the frons suspension is out. then you will need 600,329,786 3" extensions all put together to get to the starter through the front bumper lol. the rest of the trans bolts are pretty easy. i did mine in a driveway in about 3 hours out and back in.

wraitherx · January 14th, 2012, 12:25 PM

hmmm... curious, what is the reason why you have to remove the tranny just to remove the oil pan?

deedub97GT · January 14th, 2012, 12:31 PM

because you need to be able to pull back on the oil pan to get around the pickup tube. and it makes it way easier to get to the bolts that are on the backside of the engine.

wraitherx · January 14th, 2012, 12:36 PM

Good to know... never had that problem though. You would be able to get around the pick up tube if you were to drop the k, unbolt it, and just drop the pan instead of pulling it back. Gonna have to look at my old pan and block

deedub97GT · January 14th, 2012, 12:52 PM

yes and no. the room between the oil pan and tranny is just barely enough to put a sicket into on a 1/4" drive. so taking the ranny back just a little bit really sped things up.and i did my on the ground too. so i only dropped my k-member and such about 8-10 inches.

wraitherx · January 14th, 2012, 01:01 PM

I see what your saying... I guess I never had a problem cause I always used an open/closed wrench to take those bolts out ( 2 IIRC ) then I just used my crows foot with the extended ratchet attachment to torque her down to specs.

88TempoGLS · January 14th, 2012, 02:14 PM

Great info guys. thanks!

January 13th, 2012, 11:19 PM	#1
88TempoGLS Hardcore Enthusiast 2000 Ford Contour SVT 15.2 @ 90mph Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Middletown, Pa Posts: 2,450 iTrader: 0 reviews	97 SVT oil pan replacement Any of you know what all you need to pull/ do to replace an oil pan on a 1997 Cobra? My friend has one and is looking to have the pan replaced at the shop i work at. Labor guide calls for 8 hours to do it. Does it require pulling the engine or dropping the front suspension? __________________ 2000 CSVT 03 Escape 3L block, 02 Mercury Cougar 2.5 heads, SVT cams untuned. Stock manifolds, short ram intake, MSDS Y pipe, stock exhaust. 195whp/182wtq 1985 Honda 450 Nighthawk 70+MPG average 8200 miles and counting

January 13th, 2012, 11:22 PM	#2
wraitherx Moderator '99 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Virginia Beach, VA Posts: 9,568 iTrader: 11 reviews	it would be easier to just drop the K __________________ BUILD 2 IN PROGRESS

January 13th, 2012, 11:27 PM	#3
88TempoGLS Hardcore Enthusiast 2000 Ford Contour SVT 15.2 @ 90mph Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Middletown, Pa Posts: 2,450 iTrader: 0 reviews	I'm reading through a removal procedure from one of the website we use at my work. It says to remove the transmission __________________ 2000 CSVT 03 Escape 3L block, 02 Mercury Cougar 2.5 heads, SVT cams untuned. Stock manifolds, short ram intake, MSDS Y pipe, stock exhaust. 195whp/182wtq 1985 Honda 450 Nighthawk 70+MPG average 8200 miles and counting

January 13th, 2012, 11:30 PM	#5
wraitherx Moderator '99 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Virginia Beach, VA Posts: 9,568 iTrader: 11 reviews	i think that they are talking about dropping it, unbolting the bolts, then sliding it out. I still think that supporting the engine then dropping the K would be sooo much easier. __________________ BUILD 2 IN PROGRESS

January 13th, 2012, 11:45 PM	#7
wraitherx Moderator '99 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Virginia Beach, VA Posts: 9,568 iTrader: 11 reviews	nice looking snake... its not bad at all __________________ BUILD 2 IN PROGRESS

January 13th, 2012, 11:28 PM	#4
lakesidecustoms Lake View Customs 1998 GT convertible 5 spe Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: KY Posts: 13 iTrader: 0 reviews	If he takes it to the dealer they wont pull the engine. They will drop the sub frame to get to it. Its not that bad if you have a twin post lift to do on and right tools. The engine will have to be supported from the top. It can be done in your shop at home if you have a good skill level and tools. I have been in the business for 20 years I would have no problem doing it but with out the tools and skills dont attempt it. Try a local shop other than the dealer to compare price. Hope this helps you out.

January 13th, 2012, 11:46 PM	#8
88TempoGLS Hardcore Enthusiast 2000 Ford Contour SVT 15.2 @ 90mph Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Middletown, Pa Posts: 2,450 iTrader: 0 reviews	5L forged stroker, not sure if he made it back to the dyno, but he said they were going to be bumping up the boost a little bit and he should be around the 450HP mark. __________________ 2000 CSVT 03 Escape 3L block, 02 Mercury Cougar 2.5 heads, SVT cams untuned. Stock manifolds, short ram intake, MSDS Y pipe, stock exhaust. 195whp/182wtq 1985 Honda 450 Nighthawk 70+MPG average 8200 miles and counting

January 13th, 2012, 11:54 PM	#9
lakesidecustoms Lake View Customs 1998 GT convertible 5 spe Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: KY Posts: 13 iTrader: 0 reviews	If you have a lift you might be able to pull the trans and slide it out. I have never done it that way. I am not sure if you have the room to drop the pan down enough to get off the oil sump. Keep us posted on your progress.

January 14th, 2012, 03:15 AM	#11
deedub97GT MM's DRUNKEN SAILOR single turbo in the works as fast as i can push it! Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Great lakes IL Posts: 2,210 iTrader: 0 reviews	the tranny HAS GOT TO come out to get the pan off. found this out when i was putting in the return line on my turbo. and the fron suspension needs to be dropped. if you have a lift its 4 or 8 bolts and then lift the car and the frons suspension is out. then you will need 600,329,786 3" extensions all put together to get to the starter through the front bumper lol. the rest of the trans bolts are pretty easy. i did mine in a driveway in about 3 hours out and back in. __________________ MILITARY CREW GSM3 i love throbbing meat

January 14th, 2012, 12:25 PM	#12
wraitherx Moderator '99 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Virginia Beach, VA Posts: 9,568 iTrader: 11 reviews	hmmm... curious, what is the reason why you have to remove the tranny just to remove the oil pan? __________________ BUILD 2 IN PROGRESS

January 14th, 2012, 12:31 PM	#13
deedub97GT MM's DRUNKEN SAILOR single turbo in the works as fast as i can push it! Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Great lakes IL Posts: 2,210 iTrader: 0 reviews	because you need to be able to pull back on the oil pan to get around the pickup tube. and it makes it way easier to get to the bolts that are on the backside of the engine. __________________ MILITARY CREW GSM3 i love throbbing meat

January 14th, 2012, 12:36 PM	#14
wraitherx Moderator '99 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Virginia Beach, VA Posts: 9,568 iTrader: 11 reviews	Good to know... never had that problem though. You would be able to get around the pick up tube if you were to drop the k, unbolt it, and just drop the pan instead of pulling it back. Gonna have to look at my old pan and block __________________ BUILD 2 IN PROGRESS

January 14th, 2012, 12:52 PM	#15
deedub97GT MM's DRUNKEN SAILOR single turbo in the works as fast as i can push it! Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Great lakes IL Posts: 2,210 iTrader: 0 reviews	yes and no. the room between the oil pan and tranny is just barely enough to put a sicket into on a 1/4" drive. so taking the ranny back just a little bit really sped things up.and i did my on the ground too. so i only dropped my k-member and such about 8-10 inches. __________________ MILITARY CREW GSM3 i love throbbing meat

January 14th, 2012, 01:01 PM	#16
wraitherx Moderator '99 SVT Cobra Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Virginia Beach, VA Posts: 9,568 iTrader: 11 reviews	I see what your saying... I guess I never had a problem cause I always used an open/closed wrench to take those bolts out ( 2 IIRC ) then I just used my crows foot with the extended ratchet attachment to torque her down to specs. __________________ BUILD 2 IN PROGRESS

January 14th, 2012, 02:14 PM	#17
88TempoGLS Hardcore Enthusiast 2000 Ford Contour SVT 15.2 @ 90mph Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Middletown, Pa Posts: 2,450 iTrader: 0 reviews	Great info guys. thanks! __________________ 2000 CSVT 03 Escape 3L block, 02 Mercury Cougar 2.5 heads, SVT cams untuned. Stock manifolds, short ram intake, MSDS Y pipe, stock exhaust. 195whp/182wtq 1985 Honda 450 Nighthawk 70+MPG average 8200 miles and counting

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