[delgadog]

i'm not trying to start a NPI vs PI war and which is better, i've done some research and seen that both are good in its own ways. my question is, which would be the better option when it comes to a nitrous application.

my plans are to run a 100 shot and get nitrous cams, but idk wether i should go the PI route, which i know will add compression and i understand nitrous likes compression. or should i just keep my stockers and add the nitrous cams? i'd like to see how nitrous responds with an NPI head.

if anyone is running a PI and NPI mustang with nitrous, how is the set up in terms of drivability and overall performance? and if anyone is also running nitrous cams or if this is even worth while mod?

i know that NPI's aren't the best when it comes to exhaust flow #'s, however, with nitrous cams would that help anything, or would PI cams work if i decide to keep the stockers?

thank you for any input and sorry for the long post.lol.

[4vGT]

I have had No2 and a supercharger on both the NPI then after the PI swap. With the NPI block you get higher compression when you run PI heads, which isn't really the way you wanna go if you run a power adder. Spraying with the NPI was more of a punch, but the PI was faster.

I never changed cams other then when I changed heads. IF you want a 50/50 tradeoff, use the PI cams in your stock heads. If you do spray, only go wet. Get a TPS and WOT switch to run the thing too. Nothing below 2500rpm nothing above 5200 because as you know the 2v intake LOVES to pool nitrous.

Good luck with whatever you choose!

[delgadog]

hey 4V, thanks for the info, i'm going to be talking to you alot then.lol. what do you mean spraying on the NPI was more of a punch? like the shot seemed to hit harder with the NPI heads? i'm sure the PI was faster due to the higher hp you get when doing the PI swap.

i've run nitrous before in my 95, it was a small 75 shot tho. i want to run 100 shot this time. and i've read that the nitrous will pool with a wet kit due to the PI intake and NPI heads not matching and it pooling on a lip somewhere (just what i've read). i want to do a dry kit, 1. its cheaper, 2. its cheaper, and 3. should be about the same.

but since you've ran nitrous on both, i'd love to hear more from ya. and if you don't mind me asking, what where your numbers as far as hp on both set ups and your times at the track?

[Jhoward93]

I tried to run a 75 dry shot on my mustang with stock heads an intake an it just kept leaning out an messing up spark plugs so I went to a wet kit 100 shot took like a champ then put pi intake on an went to 150 an its still taking good no problems an I'm doing pi headswap this weekend.

[4vGT]

Originally Posted by delgadog hey 4V, thanks for the info, i'm going to be talking to you alot then.lol.

Add me- might look like a noob but Mustangs are my passion- have been for 12 years lol!

what do you mean spraying on the NPI was more of a punch? like the shot seemed to hit harder with the NPI heads? i'm sure the PI was faster due to the higher hp you get when doing the PI swap.

What I mean is, the turd NPI feels like the old Fox Mustangs with a built 302. Much more angry off the drop.

i've read that the nitrous will pool with a wet kit due to the PI intake and NPI heads not matching and it pooling on a lip somewhere (just what i've read). i want to do a dry kit, 1. its cheaper, 2. its cheaper, and 3. should be about the same.

Nitrous will pool wet or dry- Whoever told you just a wet kit is full of BS. Pooling is the #1 concern with the 2v in either form. The more flow, the better, and the easier the flow, the better. I ran No2 on a NPI with a PI intake only (it was a progression from start to finish) and had no pooling issues as I didn't activate it early- as I stated prior

DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO A DRY KIT! DONT EVEN LOOK AT THEM!
ITS NOT EVEN CLOSE TO THE SAME!!! You add the extra fuel for several reasons! 1. More fuel + more air = more power. 2. Works to prevent DETONATION and is safer, and doesn't rely on a single pass of the MAFS to get it right- its always right till bottle pressure drops

what where your numbers as far as hp on both set ups and your times at the track?

NPI with a 125 was 310hp-13.2@102.5
PI never pulled a time

DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO A DRY KIT! DONT EVEN LOOK AT THEM!
ITS NOT EVEN CLOSE TO THE SAME!!!

Good luck, have fun, dont cheap out on anything No2, make sure everything is clean and grease free, or you will pay with your motor.

[4vGT]

@Jhoward93- Its because Nitrous is like anything car related. Cheap, good, easy- pick two

[delgadog]

hey 4V, what other mods did you have with the NPI's and the 125 shot when you got those numbers? i'll do the wet kit then since its only a little more. 400 for the entire kit.lol. but then again, idk about the company... never heard of them, and if there at all good, there prices WILL NOT BE BEAT...lol thanks for the info. i'm in the works of getting PI heads, not porting them, don't need to get fancy, i'm not trying to get 500+ hp, i'm looking for 350-400ish to the crank will be fine.

my current mods include: 70mm TB, PI intake, CAI, and TB plenum.
future mods (which i'm waiting for my taxes to get here): shorty headers, o/r x-pipe, gears, PI heads, 100 shot nitrous, SCT tuner, 31 spline axles, 3.73 gears, upper and lower rear control arms, and sub frames.

[4vGT]

With what you have and what you are getting and already have, you should have a low 13 second car. With good traction, driver, and a nice night/early morning, you could see that number lower.

Whos kit are you going with?

[delgadog]

i'm seriously looking at a dynotune kit. its a company i've never heard of, but for the whole kit except the progression part, its 400.00. i'm adding a purge valve and nitrous pressure guage and mount it on a pod on my steering column. it should all come out to about 650 ish. thats what most avg kits cost without the purge and guage i'm getting. but i'd like some feed back on the company and i don't know where to find it. i already posted on the vendor forums for any info, but none yet.

[delgadog]

with the progressive kit added to what i mentioned above its about 700.00 ish.

[4vGT]

Ah okay-

You will absolutely need a TPS activation switch-
You will absolutely need a WOT activation switch-
You will absolutely need a bottle warmer-

I went with ZEX on all of my stuff, worked really well- was a power switching ground setup.

I would watch your solenoids if going no name. You will also want to mount your no2 so your purge will be able to remove pressure fromthe line as well. You wont want to leave it on with 1000 psi sitting against unknown internals of your noids.

[delgadog]

i had a zex kit, all i added was a purge kit, i didn't get a bottle warmer and it worked fine for me, i didn't use it all that often. then again i was only doin a 75 shot. the kit i'm looking at comes with a WOT activation, and i'm getting a window switch and a progression kit as well as you suggested.

this is the overall kit i'm getting: DynoTune Product, 622.4-87-98 Mustang GT/Cobra Nitrous System - DynoTune, Nitrous systems, Purge kits, Nitrous Bottle heaters and more!

[delgadog]

i think i've decided to just get PI cams instead of doing a PI heads... just cheaper and i could always get PI heads or better later on. also, i heard its not all that difficult to change out just the cams...

[4vGT]

Cams and that setup should be a lot of fun man. Just dont half ass anything please~ people are so quick to do stupid shit its horrifying to think. Remove all grease and the like from your intake and the like, make sure your stage 0 is solid and that you run a step colder plug. Watch your oil and listen for anything weird. When activated it should sound just like the video games would have you believe (you will hear a hissssssssssssst the entire time its active) If you have surging or detonation, you will need to stop immediately and assess what your problem is/ are.

[delgadog]

oh yea, you're right. i know about all that with my previous set up with nitrous. but thank you. the only thing i'm not following when you said my stage 0..?? my goal is just 330-350 to the crank ish... with the nitrous, if i go over that, its fine, but thats just my main goal, i don't need nor want anything to crazy.

side note, throughout the day i've been thinking PI heads...No PI heads... i can't decide just yet!!! its killin me!! i just don't want to go over budget. i can buy a set of heads CHEAP for 170 for a pair of PI's, but then i gotta spend double or tripple that just to rebuild them, i don't even want to do anything crazy to them, just back to factory specs... and i know that'll be expensive as hell...