Upper and Lower Control arms!
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Old June 28th, 2007, 01:38 PM   #1
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Upper and Lower Control arms!


Okay so I am taking boomers advise of doing the suspension first! He suggests the Mega Bite Jr. lower control arms and a nice steeda or similar up top! Here is my question! Should I be looking for an adjustable set or what? And What types do you guys suggest? How long/ hard is it to do? From what I can tell its not too hard, but will I have to take my shocks back out and my springs? If so I want to go with a better rear spring that will give me more weight transfer.

Thanks!
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Old June 28th, 2007, 01:47 PM   #2
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Hey Matt,

I will suggest a lakewood 50/50 rear shock with a drag specific rate spring. I just picked up a set of Moroso drag springs and will be giving them a shot. If you plan to run a drag radial you may want to try a adjustable upper, radials have a tendancy to break things as they shock the drivetrain when launching. Adjusting the pinion angle will help keep u-joint under the car.
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Old June 28th, 2007, 01:50 PM   #3
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How would I adjust them? and is it something I have to have a shop do to get it right? And I just did new shocks and struts 10000-1500 miles ago, but I regret not going with a drag shock such as the strange or lakewoods! How do I measure the pinion angle and know its correct? And is it nessisary to take the shocks and springs out? Thanks!
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Old June 28th, 2007, 01:59 PM   #4
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Yes , you need to remove the springs and shocks as well...... I should have been more clear on that, sorry...

As far as setting up the pinion angle you really need to have the car leveled and lifted with the suspension loaded (fully weight of the car).

Here is a little something for you to read it describes the process..

http://www.wolferacecraft.com/pinionangle.aspx
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Old June 28th, 2007, 02:07 PM   #5
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Thanks I will read that right now!
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Old June 28th, 2007, 02:15 PM   #6
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Also adjusting the angle will help the overall geometry and help to lower 60', again do not plan to make a full pass the first run as you will need to work on it at the track. Bring four jack stands and a jack just in case you need to make any adjustments, if the car feels like is tracking straight it may not be. You need someone at the rear of the car to watch and I would highly suggest only making at the most a 330' pass, if it is on the caster adjustment it could cause you to wreck on the big end.
Example; my old drag car (with fully adjustable rear suspension) took 14 60' passes to get set up right. It dog walked (from wrong caster) the first 5 and then finding the pinion angle and trying different mounting points to get it to a true straight rear. If I would have made full passes on my first 10 I would have ate the wall.
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Old June 28th, 2007, 02:18 PM   #7
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Well I wouldnt mind doing that! My 60 foots are terrible! lol 2.4-2.6 is my normal 60 foot time! Are the Mega Bites jrs ajustable? And how much should I plan on spending with the new shocks springs and everything? Thanks alot!
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Old June 28th, 2007, 02:57 PM   #8
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Moroso trick springs $95 (set)pn# 47510, Hpm mega bite jrs. pn# HPM-5520-DZ $269.00, lakewood 50/50 shocks $40 a pc. Uppers will depend on the brand.
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Old June 28th, 2007, 03:27 PM   #9
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By doing this would I ruin any of my daily driveablity? And which would be a better set up and would work the best for a daily driver/ strip car?

http://www.steeda.com/products/hd_ad...ntrol_arms.php

http://www.steeda.com/products/tubul...ontrol_arm.php

http://www.steeda.com/products/alumi...ntrol_arms.php
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Special Thanks to:
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Blown Small Block Ford with a hole in the block.
9.5 Dart Block 400 CI being saved for.
Just because you can fuck a cactus doesn't mean you should.

Never Lift Racecars
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Old June 28th, 2007, 03:33 PM   #10
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The 555-4100 is fully adjustable, retains the use of bushings and it will not hamper daily driving. You want bushings on something that will be driven daily and does not have reinforced torque boxes.
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Old June 28th, 2007, 03:40 PM   #11
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Well it looks like I am going to have to spend nearly 750 bucks for the suspension with shipping! And then I am going to have to fine tune it! Looks like I will be saving for a little while longer!! 4.10s will be going in first and I cant decide if I should wait and get a 31 spline diff and axles or stick with stock! Man I wish I had the money!
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RIP Travis Billings

Special Thanks to:
Andrews Racing Transmissions
Baseline Suspensions
Blown Small Block Ford with a hole in the block.
9.5 Dart Block 400 CI being saved for.
Just because you can fuck a cactus doesn't mean you should.

Never Lift Racecars
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