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Discussing Rotating Assembly? in the 96-98 Forum. My current engine has 185,000 miles on it and will soon be in need ...

       

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Old July 22nd, 2007, 12:21 AM   #1
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Rotating Assembly?


My current engine has 185,000 miles on it and will soon be in need of a rebuild. I would like to get a forged rotating assembly and s/c or t/c the car. I dont have a whole lot of money so i really cant afford a full longblock from vtengins.

My dad is a mechanic and knows what hes doing but doesnt know alot about modular mustang engines so would it be wise to buy a rotating assembly and tear the engine apart and put it back together? If so, where would be a good place to buy a forged rotating assembly?

I would eventually add on to it with the poweradder, heads, and cams.
 
Old July 22nd, 2007, 01:16 AM   #2
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The short block of the a modular motor is really about the same as a pushrod, except for no place for a cam in the middle. It should be about the same for that! And for a rotating assembly I would suggest talking to VT engines still. Also for the price of getting your block rebored and honed, it will be easier and about the same price to get a new iron block that doesnt need rebored And honed! keep asking questions. build it yourself. If I had the money I would want to do something like that!
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Old July 22nd, 2007, 01:27 AM   #3
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thanks matt, i really just wanted to know if we should do it ourself or have someone else do it.
 
Old July 22nd, 2007, 01:37 AM   #4
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It will be almost identical to rebuild the rotating assembly in a pushrod, and you will understand alot more how the modular motors work! If your dad is a mechanic he will have no problem what soever!
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Old July 22nd, 2007, 01:47 AM   #5
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Thats good to know. I havent really talked to him about it a whole lot but he did say hed help.
 
Old July 22nd, 2007, 10:19 AM   #6
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I myself have a high milage GT. I am about to leave to go to korea for ayear(ARMY), but when i get back i plan on rebuilding my motor. I dont remember the site off hand, but there is a kit called "street fighter", comes with all forged internals, crank, rods, and pistons. you have to bore your block 20 over. Google it and you should find it easy. I have talked to some people that have done it before and its a must before you add a s/c or t/c. it will support any power adder you put on it more then you can imagine. I cant remember exactly so dont quote me, but i think it puts our 4.6 to 302 specs. I will do some looking around when i have some free time and let you know what i find.
-nick
 
Old July 22nd, 2007, 10:25 AM   #7
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www.livernoismotorsports.com
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Old July 22nd, 2007, 11:28 AM   #8
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this will handle just about anything you throw at it!

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Old July 22nd, 2007, 08:08 PM   #9
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Check this site out, it has the kit i was talkin bout that puts it to 5.0 spec's
http://www.wmsracing.com/pgi-ProductSpec?PRC-14090
 
Old July 22nd, 2007, 08:13 PM   #10
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So its a stroker kit. What are the plans for this car? The stroker would be a good one for a street demon/track demon thats driven maybe 2-3 times a week, but it will not last as long as a normal stroke kit!
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Old July 22nd, 2007, 09:48 PM   #11
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i was also thinking about the 302 stroker assembly for a car to drive on nice days and take to the track. I believe strokers are good with FI. Am i right?
 
Old July 22nd, 2007, 09:49 PM   #12
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Strokers make killer torque.
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 12:35 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT
this will handle just about anything you throw at it!

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i've always heard putting forged internals in a stock block is like putting all your money in a wet paper bag
 
Old July 23rd, 2007, 12:52 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by kennyGT
Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT
this will handle just about anything you throw at it!

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i've always heard putting forged internals in a stock block is like putting all your money in a wet paper bag
Most modualr blocks will handle well over 700 rwhp,skipping forged internal will lower what they will handle.

Stroking a modular that has a very long rod ratio to begin with "may" lead to premature failure. There are quit a few companies that have had success stroking modulars, it depends on who builds it and the quality of the parts used. Spend the money on the best and your worries will be less.....
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 12:52 AM   #15
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Well these blocks can handle 800 HP with forged internals. But to do it correctly, you should just start out with a new stock iron block! Or at least I would!
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We expect shit to break, look foward to realizing exactly when it is happening, and than obsess about dropping plenty of cash to rebuild stronger, so we can try to run it hard as hell and break again. We are sick individuals.
 
Old July 23rd, 2007, 12:54 AM   #16
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i never new that i thought they were to like 450... no **** interesting, thanks guys
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 08:41 AM   #17
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what if you wanted to push over 800hp? should you then use a aluminum block with forged internals?
 
Old July 23rd, 2007, 10:18 AM   #18
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The only true gain from a aluminum block is that it is lighter than the iron block. If you can afford a aluminum block you will drop around 68 lbs off the front end..


There has not been a case of someone breaking a block without other componant failure. These blocks are not weak like the ohv engines that have a bore bore through the block.
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 03:22 PM   #19
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how bout the 96-98 cobra blocks?
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Old July 23rd, 2007, 03:25 PM   #20
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They will hold over 1200 HP! They are amazing! teskid blocks
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We expect shit to break, look foward to realizing exactly when it is happening, and than obsess about dropping plenty of cash to rebuild stronger, so we can try to run it hard as hell and break again. We are sick individuals.
 
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