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#1 |
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Proud American
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Well I stripped a stud!
Anyway I will probably have lots of questions on how to replace them tonight! luckly i have ARP 3 in studs in the back seat waiting to go in
![]() I think im going to have troubles with the brakes!!! Anyhelp telling me how to get the brakes off is greately appricated!!
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RIP Travis Billings ![]() Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars |
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#2 |
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Doc
1986 SVO
48.47@ 12.58
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 37,050
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what do you need to know?
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#3 |
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Proud American
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dont know yet
i havent started! lol Im just about to though!
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RIP Travis Billings ![]() Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars |
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#4 |
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Doc
1986 SVO
48.47@ 12.58
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 37,050
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it's pretty easy to do man.
jack up the car take the tire off take off the 2 caliper bolts. take off the 2 caliper housing bolts that's a bout it. once all the bolts are off I would support the caliper to the shock with rubber bands.. you don't want to let it hang.. you can damage the brake line like that. once you support it just take the rotor off. it comes right off.. it's a floating rotor.
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#5 |
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MM Fanatic
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Ive already told him how to do the front, but he cant get the caliper bracket bolts off, even with is impact. tried a cheater pipe too, and couldnt get it. Matt just aint got enough ass to break it loose.
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1986 Mustang GT t-top time piece! |
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#6 |
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Doc
1986 SVO
48.47@ 12.58
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 37,050
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![]() try lubing it and letting it sit for a bit first. oh and "righty tighty lefty loosy"
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#8 | |
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The Hammer
Millenium Falcon
"Lived the Dream, Created the Reality, Basking in my Awesomeness"
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Zip's Bubble
Posts: 13,028
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it's mustangmatt, not me |
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#10 |
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Doc
1986 SVO
48.47@ 12.58
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 37,050
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I prefer using the cheater bar method myself.
it's more of a controlled pressure.
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#11 |
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MM Fanatic
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Impacts FTW!
But then again I use them all day long at work. When that dont work, 2 wrenches or a cheater bar work like magic. I dont suggest using an impact on every bolt for installation. Break shit fast that way.
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1986 Mustang GT t-top time piece! |
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#12 |
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Proud American
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yeah! lol
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RIP Travis Billings ![]() Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars |
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#13 |
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Proud American
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how do u get the e brake cable out of the way?
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RIP Travis Billings ![]() Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars |
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#14 |
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Proud American
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nevermind
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RIP Travis Billings ![]() Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars |
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#16 |
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Proud American
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thanks i have that printed out!
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RIP Travis Billings ![]() Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars |
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#18 |
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Proud American
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well having trouble to press them im completely, but i have more than the stock knurl in the end of the axle. You can see the difference in length between the stock and ARP stud knurl. and then how much it is sticking through. I feel that i am safe, because I have more than the stock length of knurl sticking through, I just wanted more opinions!!
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RIP Travis Billings ![]() Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars |
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#19 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 41
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You definetly need to get it all the way in or they could get pulled in while your driving and make your wheel loose.
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#20 |
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Proud American
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I got them in completely! I just finished that wheel today! Ill do the other on Sunday!
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RIP Travis Billings ![]() Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions Baseline Suspensions 25.3 SFI Chassis Build Never Lift Racecars |
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