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Old November 21st, 2007, 10:51 PM   #1
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Exhaust Setup


hey guys i plan on going with this setup for an exhaust...

1. Hooker Longtubes
2. Hooker Catless H-pipe
3. Hooker Catback Exhaust

is there any thing else i need? or will that be the whole exhaust system..
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Old November 21st, 2007, 11:00 PM   #2
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1) Use new stock Ford exhaust gaskets.
2) Use stage 8 locking header bolts
3) TQ every header bolt to spec
4) Tune with rear 02's turned off.

If those headers are so tight that you can't get to the bolts to TQ them, or can't use a stage 8 locking bolt, use the supplied bolts and loctite on the header bolts.

I know my BBK shorty header tubes went over some of the bolts, so I couldn't tq them all.
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Old November 21st, 2007, 11:02 PM   #3
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Oh yeah, if you're doing this yourself, plan on dropping the K member. I've done 3 sets of headers on SN95 modular cars and the best way is dropping the K.
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Old November 21st, 2007, 11:19 PM   #4
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Mac L/T headers
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Old November 21st, 2007, 11:22 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by supercharged421 View Post
Mac L/T headers
Yep, had those before and had room to TQ them all. If I ever build a new motor, new MAC LT's will go back on.
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Old November 21st, 2007, 11:29 PM   #6
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ohhh yeah. the are BEASTT
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Old November 21st, 2007, 11:43 PM   #7
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y do you say mac over hooker? doesnt hooker have a better rep
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Old November 21st, 2007, 11:54 PM   #8
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hooker has good rep
but i love the mac L/T headers

my advice is....
Mac L/T headers, go to an exhaust shop and have the headers put on and have them make you a true dual set up, custom H pipe, and flowmaster original 40's or mac mufflers
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Old November 21st, 2007, 11:55 PM   #9
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trust me.
you will love them
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 12:08 AM   #10
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or get some MAC LTs, Prochamber, and some SLPs or Magnapacks outback. yikes
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 12:12 AM   #11
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cool thanks man
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 02:27 PM   #12
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Here is what I'm talking about when I say if you can get a TQ wrench on every bolt. And this is with the motor mounts off the block. If the mounts had been on, it would have been even worse.

BBK shorty headers on my PI motor:
Attached Thumbnails
Exhaust Setup-dsc00300small.jpg   Exhaust Setup-dsc00301small.jpg  
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Aluminum Block PI swap & 4R70W to TR3550 swapped.
Best 1/8: 2.04 60ft 8.74@81.85 &
Best 1/4: 2.045 60ft 13.56@102.94
all on stock 245-17's
My Garage
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 03:24 PM   #13
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I have hooker longtubes and ceramic coated with matching X pipe going on in the next month or so!

ANybody have detailed instructions how to drop the k member?
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 03:48 PM   #14
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its not that hard... Ill find you a link real quick...
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 04:26 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT View Post
I have hooker longtubes and ceramic coated with matching X pipe going on in the next month or so!

ANybody have detailed instructions how to drop the k member?
What I can recall is...

Jack the car up with enough room under it to perform the work and support it on jack stands under rear axle and front frame rails just behind the K-member.

Unbolt the steering shaft. Mark the shaft when it slips/bolts together to make sure you get it right. Make 100% sure to re-torque to spec when you reinstall it.

Remove the front rims.

Remove the brake calipers and hang them with an old wire coat hanger. Don't let them hang by the brake lines.

Slide off the brake discs and set them aside.

Unbolt the shock from the 2 bolts at the bottom. It's easier to do unless you air tools to break the top nut loose.

Unbolt the steering rack and slide it off and unbolt the tie rods. Support the steering rack.

Unbolt the sway bar from the ends.

Unbolt the motor mounts.

Support the engine with a floor jack and use a block of wood between the engine and jack.

Use another jack to support the K member and unbolt the two bolts in each wheel well and the one on each side towards the floor board. Lower it down slowly and have a friend help balance it if needed. Keep an eye on the springs while lowering it as well.

Make sure to mark or scribe around the K member where it bolts to the car to make sure it’s reinstalled in proper alignment.

Installation is reverse of removal. Be sure to TQ everything back to spec per the service manual. If you don't have a TQ wrench, you can get one at sears for about $80-$100. I would get a 3/8 and a 1/2 drive TQ wrench.

Hope this helps and that I didn't forget something. It's been like two years since I dropped a K member.
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1997 Mustang GT
Aluminum Block PI swap & 4R70W to TR3550 swapped.
Best 1/8: 2.04 60ft 8.74@81.85 &
Best 1/4: 2.045 60ft 13.56@102.94
all on stock 245-17's
My Garage
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 04:31 PM   #16
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Yeah i have to buy 3 new torque wrenches! Owel!

Thanks sounds pretty simple. And i would do everything, except put in the new UPR instead of the old one back right?
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 04:54 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT View Post
Yeah i have to buy 3 new torque wrenches! Owel!

Thanks sounds pretty simple. And i would do everything, except put in the new UPR instead of the old one back right?
If you have an after-market tube K member, I suggest using the plumb bob method to align the K properly. That is how the higher end manufactures suggest installing a new tube K.

Google it and there should be instructions for it.
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1997 Mustang GT
Aluminum Block PI swap & 4R70W to TR3550 swapped.
Best 1/8: 2.04 60ft 8.74@81.85 &
Best 1/4: 2.045 60ft 13.56@102.94
all on stock 245-17's
My Garage
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 05:08 PM   #18
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D&D Auto Detailing |
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 05:13 PM   #19
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How-to: Install a tubular K-member [Archive] - BuckeyeStangs Message Forums
tubular k member install
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Old November 22nd, 2007, 05:39 PM   #20
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Thanks guys! Sounds pretty easy!
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Special Thanks to:
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Baseline Suspensions
Blown Small Block Ford with a hole in the block.
9.5 Dart Block 400 CI being saved for.
Just because you can fuck a cactus doesn't mean you should.

Never Lift Racecars
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