[therooster]

i'm getting everything together for a head and intake swap. i got the package from parkway performance, it has everything as far as parts.

i'm looking for a few pointers or even a walk through guide, i havent found anything for it anywhere. i want to do it myself, i think i have most of the tools. what would i need specialty wise and just general equiptment?

also how much time am i looking at? or would it be better to go and have someone do it for me, and how much would that run me?

[sxynerd]

I know you already said you wanted to do the pi head swap but... I contemplated this desicion for about 5 months and decided to go with a complete PI motor. Best decision I ever made. And cheaper! I spent 800 on the motor and 200 on misc install crap... And it gave me back 5 years of wear and tear on my motor.
Anyways since you already bought stuff... You need a head changing kit. (new bolts) There are a few companies that sell extra thick gaskets to lower back down your CR. But its not worth it for the price and run the risk of blowing gaskets. your CR will be 10.4:1 with the new heads. So you'll have to run premium most of the time and you'll want to get a tune!!!!! Its fairly simple kinda work but If i were you id definately pull the motor to do the install. Here's the only way to get high HP numbers btw... P-51 intake it will take you from the average 287rwhp to about 325-330rwhp. (car gremlin depending) They are normally only really effective on blown cars but with the bump in compression it reacts very well! But you would need a 2.5 cowl hood with it but for the price it's worth it... Plus if you get it tunes right you can throw on a 50-100 shot of bottle to keep up with the modded 99^ and the new stock/mildly modded 05^

the actual job is very straight forward...

Remove the intake
mount the cherry picker in the head
Pull the motor (i like to pull the trans too)
secure it
remove valve covers You probably need them (unless you bought Wpi heads)
remove the front accesories cover and timing chains making sure the "keysert" is at 12 o'clock (it assures the none of the pistons are TDC
heads & gaskets
make sure you dont get to much crap in the water pasages
use a tap and clean all your threads
use head gasket taker, its like a red sticky spray
place the head on
when you put on the timing chain just make sure you have an even number of links up both sides..... VERY IMPORTANT!
torq to spec And hopefull you desided to get cams at this point already!
Stage 1 cams are the only real choice for this mod (with clearence issues and stuff.) 595 new through VT or Comp.. both are about the same
put it back in make sure everything is tight and hooked up put the motor in.
put on the intake, fuel rail and tb/plenulum and all that stuff
hopfully your batteries not dead from sitting.
check for leaks
turn her over. the higher CR will affect the starting a bit esspecially on cold winter days (IF YOU HAVE THEM)
GET THE CAR TUNNNNED!

Hand held tunners can't adjust the crap the right way! you'll blow your motor in 3 months if you don't garenteed!

[Drgnracin72]

p-51 intake is shit and will not make power on your car. it will lose a lot more through the rom range and might, MIGHT make you a tad on top. its not a good intake unless your really boosted, or can rev you motor up to near 7000 rpms. dont waste you money. youll be better off with a PI intake. just trying to save you money. ive seen way to many people lose 25 hp down low and gain only 2-3 up top. not worth it all. thats gonna hurt a lot and its pricey for what it is?

[Dennis]

i wanna know where he got a pi motor for 800 bucks lol

[jerb43]

thats what i'm sayin, 800 bucks, i bet it was a local salvage yard!! Wish i could find one for that price around my area!

[Fryrice]

No offense Sxynerd,but that was some serious misinformation on a P-51 being "the only way" to make real power form his motor

You didnt mention anything about cam's or porting the heads among other things. . Test after test has proved the a more aggressive cam set-up is the best HP adder for the modular motor along with higher flowing heads and a blower.

Then you mention that Stage 1 cams are "the only real choice for this mod" ? . Not true .Mod motor's regularly run Stage 3 cams with the right modifications .And Stage 2 VT N/A/blower cams are very common along with the upgrade in the valve springs .

Its also not necessary to pull the motor.Many people do,but its not needed. It is possible to buy a PI motor for a low price if you can find the right seller.Car was wrecked and they are selling the motor, Mustang salvage companys will sell them cheap when you ship them your motor etc.

Yup

[Casper98GT]

I'll agree with Fry...

Stage 1 cams? Yuck. haha. Its more expensive for a set of 2's due to new valve springs. But its worth it.

Im gonna say cams are expensive and i wouldnt bother with them unless i was running F/I or somesort. Thats just MO.

He also didnt mention anytihng about a F/I set-up so i dont think the P-51 would be much gains per dollar value. I would stick to the PI.

And yes you can do the swap quite easily in the car.