How To install an Aftermarket Tach in a 96-98

MustangMatt96GT · December 25th, 2007, 02:45 PM

It is common knowledge that the stock Oil Pressure gauge and Water temp gauges are completley inaccurate. But who would have thought the Tachometer. It is completely in accurate. Some times i would bounce off the limiter at the track at 5500 RPM and next time around 5700 RPM. It made me concentrate, and not get as good of times, because i bounced off the limiter because of inaccurate gauges!

I bought a Autometer aftermarket 5 inch tach with Shift light. I also bought a UPR tach bracket. Both are very high quality. The instructions didnt come with it because i bought it used. But i have found a great set of instructions.
Here is the link. http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/859e.pdf

1. Unscrew the Gauge Cluster bezel and take the headlight knob off. (i just pull really hard and it comes off everytime)
2. Take the two torx screws out of the center dash portion above the CD player, and then take the CD player and Radio out.

3 Behind the Radio, there is a torx screw back in there holding the bezel on. Take the screw out and then pull on the bezel. It will come off.
4. Now take the two torx screws out on the left of the AC controls. Not take the tach, and its bracket, and screw the screws back in. Now reassemble the center dash, and plug the radio and CD players back in.

(If mounting the tach elsewhere disregard steps 2-4)

Now your dash should look something like this.

Next step is to wire it up.

Take the actual gauge cluster out. There are 4 torx screws holding it in. You will have to unplug two plugs from it too.

5. There is a black and a white plug.

Take the white plug. And find the Tan and yellow wire, in pin 8. That is the tach signal wire. That is what the tach wire will be connected to. In my case, it was a green wire. I used scotch locks to tap into the wires.

Now all you need is a power source for the tach itself, a ground, and a power source for the light. You dont want the light on all the time, so you have to tap into a wire that will only give power to that when the lights are on. This wire can be found, along with the power wire for the tach, and the ground, from the rear defroster switch.

In my picture there are already wires tapped into it, because i have my other gauges running off of the same wires. The Rear Defroster Switch is protected by a fuse.

This is a picture of the wiring of the Rear Defroster Switch

The Pink/Light blue (Pin 3) wire is the power wire to the tach. In this case, that was my red wire. So I scotch locked it in place there.

The Black wire in (Pin 4) is the ground. You can scotch lock to that, but i just found a new ground under the dash.

The Light blue/Red switch (Pin 5), is the power for the Lighting, so i connected my white wire to that.

Now reconnect the wires to the back of the gauge cluster, and reinstall it. all the wires should be hidden behind the cluster now. So put the bezel back on.

Turn on the lights, and see if the power to the light is working.

If that checks out, put the car on the Start Position. If it goes to 0 and the light lights up then everything is checking out.

Next fire up the car, and see if the tach works! If it does, set the shift points and have fun!

Completed Pictures!

Completed Movie! Make sure it worked! Compare to my Stock tach.

How my car idles!

A 96 GT with stock computer tune Bounces off the limiter at 5900 RPM
And the stock tach was completely inaccurate.

Good luck!

and Ujslost thanks for the help with the wiring diagrams!

Any questions just let me know!

ujslost · December 25th, 2007, 02:54 PM

Looks great! Moderators should sticky this. Alot of guys wonder how to wire up their tach in the modular cars since they dont have a distributor and alot think that they have to buy an expensive useless tach adapter. Matt has totally busted that myth.

MustangMatt96GT · December 25th, 2007, 02:57 PM

Originally Posted by ujslost

Looks great! Moderators should sticky this. Alot of guys wonder how to wire up their tach in the modular cars since they dont have a distributor and alot think that they have to buy an expensive useless tach adapter. Matt has totally busted that myth.

I believe that a 99-04 car maybe different. I think you should check the wiring diagrams for one of those. But for a 96-98 car this will work every time!

nes · December 25th, 2007, 03:03 PM

thnx guy, im gunna use this here in the next couple weeks but i have a question, what is your exhaust setup??

TurboLX · December 25th, 2007, 03:04 PM

good write up Matt!

I think this applies for all Mustangs, same way i did mine

TurboLX · December 25th, 2007, 03:07 PM

How To Install An Aftermarket Tach

MustangMatt96GT · December 25th, 2007, 03:13 PM

Originally Posted by TurboLX

good write up Matt!

I think this applies for all Mustangs, same way i did mine

Ujslost just checked, 99+ can not do it this way. they have to do a tach adapter. Here is a pic how to wire up a tach adapter.

TurboLX · December 25th, 2007, 03:16 PM

Well for the foxes its pretty much the same

Elder · December 25th, 2007, 03:20 PM

same way i did mine. good write up matt. and 2 points to you for using taps and not cutting wires. good job man.

G.T. Rags · December 25th, 2007, 03:23 PM

Originally Posted by ujslost

Looks great! Moderators should sticky this. Alot of guys wonder how to wire up their tach in the modular cars since they dont have a distributor and alot think that they have to buy an expensive useless tach adapter. Matt has totally busted that myth.

I agree......., or atleast sticky a sub forum and thoow all the writeups we got in there......

TurboLX · December 25th, 2007, 03:48 PM

its already stickied morons

MustangMatt96GT · December 25th, 2007, 04:59 PM

Thanks guys. Its a really easy job, but i had never seen a write up on it. This should help out others.

TurboLX · December 25th, 2007, 05:35 PM

i was gonna do a write up for the fox but i really didnt want to

MustangMatt96GT · December 25th, 2007, 05:38 PM

Originally Posted by nes

What is your exhaust setup??

Right now its O/R H pipe with Flow 40 catback.

Soon, Hooker LT with with O/R X and flow 40 Catback

I may go dumped on my car here soon. I dont know if i want the tail pipes to show anymore.

gtdan · December 25th, 2007, 05:39 PM

nice job matt !!!

ujslost · December 25th, 2007, 10:18 PM

on a fox just hook the green wire from the tach to the green -negative wire on the ignition coil.

nes · December 26th, 2007, 03:48 PM

Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT

Right now its O/R H pipe with Flow 40 catback.

Soon, Hooker LT with with O/R X and flow 40 Catback

I may go dumped on my car here soon. I dont know if i want the tail pipes to show anymore.

thankyou, i about had to make an angry thread asking you

. maybe ill get a tach this weekend

MustangMatt96GT · December 26th, 2007, 04:36 PM

I got the bracket and tach and shift light for 85 bucks shipped. I would say i did alright!

nes · December 26th, 2007, 04:49 PM

i would say you did fantastic... now if u could send it to me, you would be doing the "right" thing

MustangMatt96GT · December 26th, 2007, 04:56 PM

lol

December 25th, 2007, 02:45 PM	#1
MustangMatt96GT Proud American 1996 Mustang GT 10.76 @ 122 with d/a of 8365 ft Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lakewood, CO Posts: 8,262	How To install an Aftermarket Tach in a 96-98 It is common knowledge that the stock Oil Pressure gauge and Water temp gauges are completley inaccurate. But who would have thought the Tachometer. It is completely in accurate. Some times i would bounce off the limiter at the track at 5500 RPM and next time around 5700 RPM. It made me concentrate, and not get as good of times, because i bounced off the limiter because of inaccurate gauges! I bought a Autometer aftermarket 5 inch tach with Shift light. I also bought a UPR tach bracket. Both are very high quality. The instructions didnt come with it because i bought it used. But i have found a great set of instructions. Here is the link. http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/859e.pdf 1. Unscrew the Gauge Cluster bezel and take the headlight knob off. (i just pull really hard and it comes off everytime) 2. Take the two torx screws out of the center dash portion above the CD player, and then take the CD player and Radio out. 3 Behind the Radio, there is a torx screw back in there holding the bezel on. Take the screw out and then pull on the bezel. It will come off. 4. Now take the two torx screws out on the left of the AC controls. Not take the tach, and its bracket, and screw the screws back in. Now reassemble the center dash, and plug the radio and CD players back in. (If mounting the tach elsewhere disregard steps 2-4) Now your dash should look something like this. Next step is to wire it up. Take the actual gauge cluster out. There are 4 torx screws holding it in. You will have to unplug two plugs from it too. 5. There is a black and a white plug. Take the white plug. And find the Tan and yellow wire, in pin 8. That is the tach signal wire. That is what the tach wire will be connected to. In my case, it was a green wire. I used scotch locks to tap into the wires. Now all you need is a power source for the tach itself, a ground, and a power source for the light. You dont want the light on all the time, so you have to tap into a wire that will only give power to that when the lights are on. This wire can be found, along with the power wire for the tach, and the ground, from the rear defroster switch. In my picture there are already wires tapped into it, because i have my other gauges running off of the same wires. The Rear Defroster Switch is protected by a fuse. This is a picture of the wiring of the Rear Defroster Switch The Pink/Light blue (Pin 3) wire is the power wire to the tach. In this case, that was my red wire. So I scotch locked it in place there. The Black wire in (Pin 4) is the ground. You can scotch lock to that, but i just found a new ground under the dash. The Light blue/Red switch (Pin 5), is the power for the Lighting, so i connected my white wire to that. Now reconnect the wires to the back of the gauge cluster, and reinstall it. all the wires should be hidden behind the cluster now. So put the bezel back on. Turn on the lights, and see if the power to the light is working. If that checks out, put the car on the Start Position. If it goes to 0 and the light lights up then everything is checking out. Next fire up the car, and see if the tach works! If it does, set the shift points and have fun! Completed Pictures! Completed Movie! Make sure it worked! Compare to my Stock tach. How my car idles! A 96 GT with stock computer tune Bounces off the limiter at 5900 RPM And the stock tach was completely inaccurate. Good luck! and Ujslost thanks for the help with the wiring diagrams! Any questions just let me know! __________________ 1996 Mustang GT with a 351 swap with Stalled C4 Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions "Don't expect to build up the weak by pulling down the strong."

December 25th, 2007, 02:54 PM	#2
ujslost MM Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Albertville, AL Posts: 3,882	Looks great! Moderators should sticky this. Alot of guys wonder how to wire up their tach in the modular cars since they dont have a distributor and alot think that they have to buy an expensive useless tach adapter. Matt has totally busted that myth. __________________ 2000 F250 CC 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 Lariat "I'd rather be stroked than RAMMED" "Real Trucks" dont have spark plugs

December 25th, 2007, 03:03 PM	#4
nes Enthusiast Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 949	thnx guy, im gunna use this here in the next couple weeks but i have a question, what is your exhaust setup?? __________________ silver 98gt, blown- sold laser red 98gt, stock- gave away stormy blue 09 mazda3-pos DD soon- gt500 if all works out

December 25th, 2007, 04:59 PM	#12
MustangMatt96GT Proud American 1996 Mustang GT 10.76 @ 122 with d/a of 8365 ft Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lakewood, CO Posts: 8,262	Thanks guys. Its a really easy job, but i had never seen a write up on it. This should help out others. __________________ 1996 Mustang GT with a 351 swap with Stalled C4 Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions "Don't expect to build up the weak by pulling down the strong."

December 25th, 2007, 05:39 PM	#15
gtdan Enthusiast 1996 mustang gt Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Denver co Posts: 509	nice job matt !!! __________________ sold the stang

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December 25th, 2007, 03:04 PM	#5
TurboLX Banned 1990 Mustang LX Turbo 9.71@141.6 mph Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NY Posts: 8,780	good write up Matt! I think this applies for all Mustangs, same way i did mine

December 25th, 2007, 03:07 PM	#6
TurboLX Banned 1990 Mustang LX Turbo 9.71@141.6 mph Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NY Posts: 8,780	How To Install An Aftermarket Tach

December 25th, 2007, 03:16 PM	#8
TurboLX Banned 1990 Mustang LX Turbo 9.71@141.6 mph Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NY Posts: 8,780	Well for the foxes its pretty much the same

December 25th, 2007, 03:48 PM	#11
TurboLX Banned 1990 Mustang LX Turbo 9.71@141.6 mph Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NY Posts: 8,780	its already stickied morons

December 25th, 2007, 05:35 PM	#13
TurboLX Banned 1990 Mustang LX Turbo 9.71@141.6 mph Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NY Posts: 8,780	i was gonna do a write up for the fox but i really didnt want to

December 25th, 2007, 10:18 PM	#16
ujslost MM Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Albertville, AL Posts: 3,882	on a fox just hook the green wire from the tach to the green -negative wire on the ignition coil. __________________ 2000 F250 CC 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 Lariat "I'd rather be stroked than RAMMED" "Real Trucks" dont have spark plugs

December 26th, 2007, 04:36 PM	#18
MustangMatt96GT Proud American 1996 Mustang GT 10.76 @ 122 with d/a of 8365 ft Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lakewood, CO Posts: 8,262	I got the bracket and tach and shift light for 85 bucks shipped. I would say i did alright! __________________ 1996 Mustang GT with a 351 swap with Stalled C4 Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions "Don't expect to build up the weak by pulling down the strong."

December 26th, 2007, 04:49 PM	#19
nes Enthusiast Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 949	i would say you did fantastic... now if u could send it to me, you would be doing the "right" thing __________________ silver 98gt, blown- sold laser red 98gt, stock- gave away stormy blue 09 mazda3-pos DD soon- gt500 if all works out

December 26th, 2007, 04:56 PM	#20
MustangMatt96GT Proud American 1996 Mustang GT 10.76 @ 122 with d/a of 8365 ft Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lakewood, CO Posts: 8,262	lol __________________ 1996 Mustang GT with a 351 swap with Stalled C4 Special Thanks to: Andrews Racing Transmissions "Don't expect to build up the weak by pulling down the strong."

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