Shortie Header install
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Old April 15th, 2008, 12:09 AM   #1
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Shortie Header install


does anyone have a write up of their header install i am gettin FRRP shortie headers MAC O/R X and they guy is giving me MAC pro dump(not using)
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Old April 15th, 2008, 12:13 AM   #2
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drop the k member and take all the steering with it.

Makes a hell of a lot of room. Let me go grab pictures.
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Old April 15th, 2008, 12:27 AM   #3
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Old April 15th, 2008, 12:36 AM   #4
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hmmmmm

can i do it without dropping anything out this is gonna be a ghetto in driveway install i wanna pop out the stockers pop in the FRRP's will there be any difference between stock and FRRP shorties?



then i know the mid pipe is easy
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Old April 15th, 2008, 12:41 AM   #5
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headers are a PITA. I would personally take the heads off and put the headers on and then put the shorties in place. It would be worth it to me. I would never put a shorty header on though. LT all the way. And i took my K member out, and will beable to bolt the header on to the head and put the head in place.
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Old April 15th, 2008, 12:43 AM   #6
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should i bother with the FRRP Shorties and keep the stock headers

or should i throw the Shorties on?
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Old April 15th, 2008, 12:56 AM   #7
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I wouldnt. I would put Longtubes on there, but my car will never get emission tested either.

its up to you. I doubt you feel any power gain.
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Old April 15th, 2008, 12:57 AM   #8
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yea i dont have any money for longtubes though i just care about the O/R X i know that will give me 5-10 and alot of noise
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Old April 15th, 2008, 12:58 AM   #9
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dont take the heads off, itll cost you another 100 bucks to put them back on, the bolts are not reusable
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Old April 15th, 2008, 01:00 AM   #10
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agreed. head bolts are a 100 bucks, but worth it imo. Just use ARP stuff the time you put it on. Or just buy PI heads and do the swap then.
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Old April 15th, 2008, 01:01 AM   #11
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if you were going to do it i would get arp studs, then you can take them off as much as you want, but they're a little over 200
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Old April 15th, 2008, 01:07 AM   #12
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yea im doing ARP studs i paid 209.99. Shorties just arent worth it IMO
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Old April 15th, 2008, 01:11 AM   #13
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well this mid pipe is meant for shorties or stock so if i were to get longtubes i would have to get another mid pipe i guess just put the mid pipe in and when i can get longtubes and new mid. i will
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Old April 15th, 2008, 04:01 AM   #14
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the shorties will help a little, i'm not a huge fan of the frpp because they look like a better manifold but either way there will be a gain just not as noticeable as lt's but if you have the shorties you should put them in
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Old April 15th, 2008, 12:25 PM   #15
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ok thanks man
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Old April 15th, 2008, 02:07 PM   #16
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ok well i have a buddy comin by with tools jacks stands etc... so gonna throw it all on the pro dumps O/R X and Shorties
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Old April 15th, 2008, 04:53 PM   #17
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You'll need to remove the starter to get access to the stock manifold on the right side.(Theres 3 bolts, not 2.). You'll have to undo the steering shaft on the left side. Make sure your steering wheel is locked before you do this. You will also need to remove the bottom end of the egr tube from your stock manifold. The manual suggests removing your dipstick as well, but I didn't find it necessary. I just cut the new gasket in half on that side and slipped it past. Using some tack on the gasket and putting it in place on the head will save you alot of frustration. Have fun getting to those damn bolts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old April 15th, 2008, 04:56 PM   #18
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You will also find it very helpful to transfer the studs from your existing right side manifold to your new right side header before installing it. You may as well tack welding the nuts onto your new left side header before installing it, otherwise you'll have a hell of a time tightening it to your midpipe.
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Old April 15th, 2008, 04:57 PM   #19
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you may also want to have a tiny oriental man or a small child available for the times you will need to bend your arm 13 different directions at once to reinstall some of the new header bolts.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 12:46 PM   #20
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Are the stock manifolds held on by nuts or do they have bolts. I just bought some FRPP headers and some stage 8 header bolts. If they are held in by nuts how hard it is to remove the studs?
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