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Discussing suspension kits in the 96-98 Forum. Well the suspension on my 98 GT is toast. I was wondering which suspension kit ... Modded Mustangs is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. We discuss all aspects of the Ford Mustang on the forum. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free! |
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#1 |
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Newbie
1998 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 8
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suspension kitsthanks, K |
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1998 mustang gt
12.6@110
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cedar Grove NJ
Posts: 2,057
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steeda.com
maximummotorsports.com those 2 are the best places to get get quality shit for a great price!! and both of those places have "kits" you can also peice it together... i'd start with lowering springs ( eibach) caster camber plates, sub frame connectors, strut tower brace, upper control arms.. hope thats a good start |
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#3 |
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Enthusiast
1997 Mustang GT
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 559
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I would go to site's like that. But also go to griggsracing.com and musclemustangfastfords.com. They all have write ups on the mustang's suspension. What its flaws are and what can and needs to be done. You will find that you can either do a little or a lot to fix teh handling of your car. I have new shocks, springs, swaybars, CC plates, Subframe connectors and a panhard bar. My car handles better than 90% of cars on the road but It still has a ways to go, and I've put a little bit of money in it. Do your research on what you want. Eibach and Maximum Motorsports have low lvl kits for your average joe. But if you want AIX style porsche hunting performance out of your suspension, you'r going to be looking to spend some cash. I bought 4 point harnesses and am planning to buy racing seats, since the stock seats don't allow me to take advantage of the mods I have now. Just something to think about.
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#4 |
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Regular
1997 Saleen S281
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ZEBULON N.C.
Posts: 475
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I'd say go low. drop it 1.5-2.0 inches, replace your shocks and struts with adjustables, install cc plates,install x2 ball joints and a bump steer kit, replace your motormounts and control arm bushings with poly and install offset A-arm bushings on the front. add a strut tower and g-load brace,weld in some subframe connectors and install a rear sway bar. go with adjustable upper and lower control arms in the rear if you are gonna lower it more that 1.5 in the back. buy some aftermarket rims and widen your stance for better traction as well.
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hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..... |
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#5 |
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Regular
2001 V6
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 66
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i know im in the 96-98 forum.. but got here with the friendly seach function... so my question is... if i got lowering springs... would i have to swap out for aftermarket shocks and struts? or would i be ok to stay with the stock
Last edited by jhumphrey4 : July 15th, 2008 at 12:31 AM. |
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#6 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1998 SVT Cobra
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 1,340
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Maximum Motorsports is going to be the best for kits that aren't full race prep and $5k. Griggs' stuff is awesome, but you have to go all the way up to a fairly expensive pack. Evolution Motorsport has a fairly trick rear suspension kit. Agent 47 sells an absolutely AWESOME front suspension that converts the car from craptastic McPherson struts to a true double wishbone setup. Whatever you do, do NOT just put a 2" drop on the car and call it good. You can throw a bunch of what would be good parts at a car, but if things aren't properly matched, you'll end up with nothing but a pig of a car and a lightened wallet. I can't suggest kits enough, especially from those manufacturers that are actively involved in road racing (Maximum, Griggs, and A47 immediately come to mind). The Mustang's suspension geometry is bad enough, don't exacerbate it by making changes that you don't understand the full consequences of. Is it going to change the bumpsteer habits? What about tire scrub? Travel? Caster/Camber/Toe changes as the wheel goes through it's movement arc? A kit from a reputable vendor insures that these things were addressed. And I can't suggest AGAINST adjustable shocks enough.
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---------------------------------------------------------- The Sacred Chao says "MU" '96 Bronco XLT '98 Cobra '89 Camry AllTrac |
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#7 |
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Regular
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: In Reality, why where do you live?
Posts: 220
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You can get Tokico springs really cheap on ebay and they handle corners very well. THe only thing I would suggest is that you buy a nice expensive set of adjustable shocks. The Roush springs have a little more sway (lower spring rate) but also handle very well on the road courses.
If road courses is your bread and butter then I would suggest subframe connectors, front and rear shock tower braces. Last edited by sxynerd : July 15th, 2008 at 10:43 AM. |
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#8 |
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Regular
1996 Mustang GT Conv.
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 147
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(My) Springs, Shocks and Struts:
- Eibach Pro Kit springs - KYB AGX adj. struts and shocks. The setup is great, and a phenomenal improvement over the stock setup. The shocks/struts could be higher quality (Koni / Tokico) but they do their job well and I can't imagine a big difference in quality compared to the big name brands, your call. Other Needed / Suggested / Purchased (in my case) stuff: After taking stuff apart, I realized there was more to the suspension than just the previosuly mentioned parts. In additon to those, I bought: - Ball joints - Control arm bushings - Steering rack bushings - Sway bar bushings - Sway bar end link kit (links and bushings) *C/C plates (I skimped on this to save money, though I have heard very good things about them; I'm putting my low college kid income towards other parts haha) *Steeda X2 balljoints and Bumpsteer kit (removes bump steer, heard good things about the kit, but again- I purchased the few bushings I felt I would, and balljoints, need and saved the extra money) I also get a huge discount from Murray's Discount Auto, not sure if you have those, and so I pick up most my stuff from there and am very happy with them. Hope that helps, good luck with the upgrade!
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...I like my beat down low and my top let back... |
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#9 |
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All Throttle with a Bottle
1996 Mustang GT
12.91@105.29 @ 5800 FT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 7,304
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You can stick with stockers, but if they need replacing, i would up grade, since you have everything unbolted anyway.
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#10 |
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Enthusiast
1997 Mustang GT
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 559
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You only need to swap out your shocks and struts if your drop is around 2" or more, or if your springs are alot stiffer than stock. Stangsuspension.com has a table of stock spring rates and everything. Also if you drop to around 2" you really should get CC plates, its not required but its a good idea since you are getting out of the recommended range of the stock plates.
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Aztec Gold 97GT. MM CC Plates, Panhard Bar, Subframes & Tower Brace Eibach Sway Bars H&R Race Springs/Bilstein Shocks MAC CAI, LT's, Catted H and Pro-Dumps KB Boost-a-Spark PI Swap Spun Main Bearing... |
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#11 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1996 Mustang GT
next year
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 1,344
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how does an air-ride suspension affect the geometry with being on the fly adjustable?
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#12 |
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Enthusiast
1997 Mustang GT
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 559
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The air ride gives you adjustable height. Which means you can move in and out of good geometry. Air ride is really a show car thing so you can slam it at shows and drive it other times. Other than that, I wouldn't use it at all, its not as strong as the aftermarket stuff and its added weight and added variables for aggresive driving.
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Aztec Gold 97GT. MM CC Plates, Panhard Bar, Subframes & Tower Brace Eibach Sway Bars H&R Race Springs/Bilstein Shocks MAC CAI, LT's, Catted H and Pro-Dumps KB Boost-a-Spark PI Swap Spun Main Bearing... |
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#13 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1996 Mustang GT
next year
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 1,344
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so they dont let u drop it so low u mess up the geomtry?
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