[Jazzer The Cat]

Been talkin' some trash about my upcoming swap as of late, so time to git 'er goin'

Here she is.... bay-bay








Brand new #1260 with Cobra cross-member and Dynotech alum. DS. Unfortunately, I had to replace my current alum. DS with a 1" shorter one due to the extra length of the T-56. Hey.... MamaStang was right, size DOES matter! I also have a nice new Pro50 shifter coming and expect it next week, hopefully

Two questions for y'all. I can see that two electrical connections have been relocated from the T-3650 to the T-56, not a problem. There is a third connection of which I believe is for the reverse lock-out switch? This appears to be a solenoid switch located just below the shift-lever on the drivers-side facing forward in top pic.

My understanding is this needs to have 12vt. power to allow ease of engaging reverse. I am told one can use a little extra muscle to avoid running power, but this makes it easier. It would be best to connect to the brake light wire as it would make sense to apply the brake when shifting into reverse. Am I correct? Has anyone purchased the electrical connector necessary? Seems to me, the existing Ford wiring harness probably HAS the necessary wires, but just lacks the connector as I don't have a Cobra.

Please help a Jazzer out.....

"I got nowhere else to go!"

[jivepepper]

F N sweet! Wish I could afford one.

[moosenuk17]

NIce bro, im jealous...

[svtkidd23]

I am pretty sure the t-56 has wee bit diff wiring! call ford an ask about a harnass of some sort?!!

[Jazzer The Cat]

Thanks pepes

Continuing my research all morning and figured out the following things re: reverse lock-out switch. If I connect this solenoid to the brake switch, it will allow an easier time of getting into reverse (will work w/o power, just more muscle needed to get there). The factory cars have a PCM control that will not power the solenoid until you are under 5 mph. The concern is finding reverse while LOOKING for 5th. If one were to connect to brake switch, it would still be an issue as I nearly always apply the brakes as I downshift.

I am strongly considering just pulling the solenoid completely or just putting a lighter spring so reverse could be engaged w/o getting carpel tunnel syndrome. Besides, I have driven nothing but sticks in my personal rides for over 20 years, so I am not overly concerned. I do hear that the "space" between gears (for lack of the correct term) is closer than my current 5 speed, so easier to grind reverse looking for 5th.

Anyone have any thoughts on this issue or what you have done?

Jazzer

EDIT: some have put a momentary swich under shift boot or on dash somewhere close and not so fond of this option. Would be a nice deterrant for thieves though

[Lefty]

Keep me posted...I plan on doing a T-56 Swap in the future jazzer.

[jaxdawg]

yes it is easy if ur not carefull to grind reverse when looking for 5th. but once you get used to it its not a problem

[SteviGX]

You could always do a toggle switch.

I know alot of people wouldn't like that idea but it would actually be kinda cool...like your in a race car haha.

[svtkidd23]

Originally Posted by SteviGX You could always do a toggle switch. I know alot of people wouldn't like that idea but it would actually be kinda cool...like your in a race car haha.

hell yeah!

[Jazzer The Cat]

Reverse lock-out issue solved

This was VERY easy to do, actually, and will not need to run any power lines OR completely give up on the nice little safety feature of the switch. Before you start, just try pushing in the button on the end of this switch.... OUCH!!!

Below is a pic of the switch with original parts removed, and new ones below on the RH side:

The clip on the top RH side is the keeper that holds the spring assembly inside the switch over on the LH side. Use some small specialty pliers to collapse and remove this clip. The spring is VERY strong, but held a small "C" clip (see last picture below). The energy will NOT cause it to fly out of housing, so don't wory about it "putting someones eye out" like in school

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Below is a pic of the heavy ORIGINAL spring, the small spring (on bottom) once removed and the replacement springs with some original, but newly oriented, parts to be installed above:

Down inside the tube of switch, there is a small 1/4" pin that is the actuator from the solenoid switch. If you reach down inside, you can easily push this button out of the way. On an OEM car with this switch, power would be applied and this little button would be drawn out of the way. This would allow the "little" spring to be the ONLY resistance to finding reverse with shifter. Without power, the little button holds keeper just behind the small "C" clip and forces the BIG spring to cause MUCH resistance finding reverse with shifter.

We are going to remove the small spring, and collapse the keeper to remove the small "C" clip to then remove the BIG spring.

THIS SPRING IS UNDER SOME PRETTY SERIOUS COMPRESSION. TAKE MUCH CARE IN REMOVING IT AS IT WILL PUT SOMEONES EYE OUT...NO KIDDING. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN TAKING THIS ASSEMBLY APART!!!.

The above pic also shows the two new springs to be the resistance springs to finding reverse. At this point, the trans is not installed and cannot be sure if this will be a good amount of resistance. It will remain to be seen and may have to experiment with different ones. I could just remove all the guts and go w/o any resistance at all, and the trans would be 100% fine oporationally. This would create zero resistance find reverse when looking for 5th during a downshift. So if you do this swap, you can decide for yourself. I currently have a resistance spring in my T-3650 and kinda like the idea. You could even leave the original spring and would not harm the trans in any way, but would be a little tiresome on your arm when in need to back-up.

To re-install NEW spring assembly, you will have to do a little jiggling go get the keeper/spacer in the bottom of the switch (see keeper on LH side of new springs in center pic). This needs to get by the 1/4" solenoid button, but not difficult. Just push the springs inside, and attach the big clip with the two little holes in the end, and your set. This NEW spring set-up will not be NEARLY as strong so restance to finding reverse will be very much reduced.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Here is the final product with the original springs and small "C" clip no longer used:


Now try pushing on the end again..... ahhhhh

There you have it, ladies and germs. LMK if I missed something or you think I need help

JTC

NOTE: AT SOME POINT, I WILL DELETE THE LINKS TO PICS. I WILL KEEP THEM ON MY DRIVE AND CAN E-MAIL THEM IF NEEDED, SO PM ME

[03gtfirered]

+1^ your a knowledgable cat jazzer.....if i ever do this swap ill know where to look! thanks!

This should be a sticky.

[SteviGX]

Agreed^

Your kicking this installs ass jazzer

[Novanutcase]

DANG! That Tranny is a brute! Are you going to have any fitment issues or will it bolt right in? That thing looks like a pit bull! LOL! Are you changing any of the gear ratios? I heard that 6th gear is useless unless you change it to a taller gear.

John

[yojoe600]

i would love to do a swap in the future

[03_StangGuy]

So that lock-out mod allows you to get into reverse without any sort of switch? How much resistance is there? Im just thinkin that goin into reverse at speed would be very bad, the idea of a switch or button instead doesnt sound so bad.

[Jazzer The Cat]

Originally Posted by Novanutcase DANG! That Tranny is a brute! Are you going to have any fitment issues or will it bolt right in? That thing looks like a pit bull! LOL! Are you changing any of the gear ratios? I heard that 6th gear is useless unless you change it to a taller gear. John

Thanks John and others

The trans itself is a direct bolt in unit. Will need to.....*huhumm*... " massage"... a little room around the bell housing, but otherwise, perfect fit. The input shaft is same as stock (10 spline) and output shaft is 31, just like stock. The only issues for install are 1" shorter driveshaft needed and new cross-member from a '03~'04 Cobra.

I actually am doing the install due to bearings on the way out of current trans, so just the excuse I needed to swap that baby out . I spent a couple weeks of phone calls back/forth to Modern Driveline talking to Bruce to diagnose exactly what was up with existing and subsequently, choosing the gear ratios below:

T-3650 ratios I have now:
3.38
2.00
1.32
1.00
0.68

T-56 #1260 ratios:
2.97
2.07
1.43
1.00
0.8
0.62

This will be a MAJOR improvement in driveability by getting rid of the BIG gap between 4th~5th of current trans. Will also eliminate the quite low 1st gear.

UPDATE ON REVERSE LOCK-OUT SWITCH:

I have installed it in the trans as it STILL sits on my shop floor . The springs I have chosen seem to be very nice so far, as there is just a bit of extra efford needed to get to reverse

EDIT: Due to slow typing... I did not see the last post 'til now.

No, there will be no power required to get into reverse. This lock-out switch was designed to make it just about impossible to find reverse without power to switch, but could be done if solenoid were to fail. This new spring set-up, will just make it a lot easier to get into reverse w/o power. Even if one was to begin going into reverse, you would get some SERIOUS grindin' a goin' on! . I am not worried about it and won't be running any power for its originally designed operation.

[SilverFreakGT]

Some TR3650s have a .62 5th while others have .68 like the T-45. I am unsure of which cars have which ratio but all of the 3650s I've seen (all mach 1s) have had the .62. Maybe somebody else can shed some more light on this. To go on about what was posted earlier about the nearly useless OD I tend to agree with you. I imagine the cobra spec T-56 has a relatively short 6th because of the relative lack of low end torque from the 4V. Camaro spec t-56s tend to be much taller (.50 or so) and they admittedly start making torque at a lower RPM. For a 2V the T-56 ratios aren't ideal but there is no way of getting different ratios unfortunately. With my rear gearing especially (4:10's), I would like a slightly taller 6th since 5th would take me plenty fast, then 6th could be utilized as a fat cruise gear. But alas it is not possible, when I do my swap I will be dealing with the .62, but it is still an improvement over my .68 and should turn 2.5K at 80 insteak of 3K now =)

Bitchin' work on that reverse lockout sir, that is some legit execution of problem solving haha.

[B0B]

awesome bro! let us know how it goes, when i blow up my 3650 i'll be looking into doing the t-56 swap as well.

+reps

[DickH]

It isn't possible to swap out 6th gear with a .5 or something awesome?

[SilverFreakGT]

I asked when I got the quote for a rebuild and the shop said no which I found odd... I'm not sure why but I haven't heard of anyone with custom ratios in their trannies, you can get a TKO which has different ratios then the stock trannies but obviously those aren't 6 speeds... but as far as I have heard what you see is what you get. If you go t56 you get the stock ratios and even a rebuilt t45/t56/tr3650 would have stock ratios