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Rear End / Rear Wheels problems

4K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  Jazzer The Cat 
#1 ·
Hey all, I'm new to the forum so be nice to my ignorance.

I joined specifically because of a problem I'm having and I dunno where else to turn. I've got a pretty heavily modified 02 GT (which i kinda turned into my own Boss 281 theme). I don't use it as a daily driver, but I do have some issues with the rear wheels. For about 2 years now I've had 17x10.5 rims with Goodyear Gs-d3s on them in the rear and have had little problems with rubbing (usually only happened when I was racing the car). Recently however they began to make rubbing-like noises anytime I made a right hand turn (sharp right, typically from a stop) as well as sharp left turns. Even more scary, i started to smell burnt rubber every time I stopped driving the car (coming directly from the back wheels)

So I went and bought 5/8ths wheel spacers from mustangwheelspacers.com and had them installed. It did a good job at leveling out the tires to the edge of the wheel well, and stopped the rubbing when giving it a lot of gas. But it did NOT stop the rubbing noises when making sharp turns. It also seems to only make these noises after the car has been driven for about 30 minutes. The car's performance doesn't seem affected at all by any of this...and when I look and feel the tires I cannot see any evidence of rubbing (for example, the small rubber hairs that stick out are all still there...none are shaved off). As well, when making a sharp turn but NOT giving it gas...another type of rubbing sound appears to come from all angles of the car (I can't really determine if it's front or back).

My question is basically this: Does anyone know if it is possible that despite the spaces, somehow the wheels are rubbing against the quad shocks, or the exhaust? And if so, what is the way to rectify this?

The car's suspension mods and exhaust mods are as follows:

-eibach lowering springs (standard)
-MM rear sway bar
-5/8" wheel spacers for rear
-Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust system
-MM tower brace
-MM subframe connectors
-stock shocks
 
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#3 ·
ok first welcome to the forums. the eibachs didn't come standard, do u have the prokit or sportlines? What tire size are you running in the rear? it most likely has nothing to do with your solid rear axle, cars with IRS like cobras have a harder time fitting the 10.5" rears then a solid axle car. A lot of people on here run a 10.5" wheel on their GTs with no problem. It could be the exhaust rubbing on the tire hence the reason it happened after 30 mins due to the exhaust getting hot. It may also be your brakes if the tires arnt showing any wear, you may have a seized caliper or have a caliper that is hanging so therefore your brake pads are constantly rubbing on the rotor causing that smell.
 
#4 ·
I believe they were the prokit, but to be honest I'd have to double check later when I get home.

The tire sizes are 315/35/17, Goodyear GS-D3.

I'm pretty sure it doesn't have to do with the breaks because the wheel spacers were put on just 2 weeks ago and the shop who did it didn't say anything about the breaks being defective or having problems...and I'd think they would have told me in order to make a few bucks.

How does exhaust heating up cause it to rub after 30 minutes but not prior?

If a lot of people run 315s on their GTs, do you perhaps have a link to someone with their setup so I can compare?

Overall I thank you for your response, it gives me a sense of direction as to what I can do now. If it IS the exhaust, what are your suggestions? Are there ways to move the exhaust pipe further in? Or would the only solution be to go with a side exit or dumps?
 
#8 ·
Since you put the wheel spacers in there I dont think it would be hitting the exhaust. I could be wrong tho. My guess would be the lip on the quarter panels. Your springs probably settled and got a little weak, when you turn the body probably rolls and the lip is probably hitting the tire. You might want to try rolling the quarter panels
 
#11 ·
Since you put the wheel spacers in there I dont think it would be hitting the exhaust. I could be wrong tho.
Also I thought I would clarify:

The noise I'm hearing (which sounds like rubbing) is the same noise both BEFORE and AFTER the install of the wheel spacers. The only difference is that now the noise just happens only after 30 minutes of driving, and on sharp turns.
 
#9 ·
if you suspect tire rubbing and it has been going on for quite some time then my first concern is any visible wear on the tires. Look for an uneven wear on the treads and look under the car with the rear tires off for residual tire material.

It could be that your suspesion/bushings are wearing over time or that your sway bar isn't doing its job. the extreme corners cause the side of the suspension arm to rub.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the responses guys, you're making me feel better.

What exactly are the corner panels? Are those the parts of the body right under the lip of the fender well? If so...I have bent those in (i had to do it when I put the wheels on). If that's not however, could you tell me what you're referring to?

There are no visible signs of wear anywhere on the tires...which is probably one of the few things thats keeping me sane.
 
#12 ·
i was referring to the smell, once the exhaust got hot after 30 mins it could be burning the rubber, hence the smell, but since you have the spacers, and rolled your lip im not sure im going to have to assume that it has to be a problem with the bushings also. how many miles are on the car? and how long have the springs been on? pics will help alot also like previously stated
 
#14 ·
I am not sold on warn bushings so much as 50K is not soo high, but good idea to have them checked, as others have wisely suggested.

Your best bet is to put it up in the air and look for shiney metal and worn parts. I would also add, if you are running a 5/8" spacer... how much threads are left for lug-bolts? This is my biggest concern as I run 1/2" spacers. I installed longer/stronger lug-bolts to compensate for the lost threads. I ONLY had approx. 5/8" prior to installing spacers, so that should leave you VERY little assuming your wheel mount is a bit thinner than mine. As it is, it MUST be thinner or you wouldn't have any threads at all!

Jazzer :)

PS. Welcome to the forums!
 
#15 ·
I am not sold on warn bushings so much as 50K is not soo high, but good idea to have them checked, as others have wisely suggested.

Your best bet is to put it up in the air and look for shiney metal and worn parts. I would also add, if you are running a 5/8" spacer... how much threads are left for lug-bolts?
I used MustangWheelSpacers.com and their package with came with new lug bolts, so that's no issue.
 
#16 ·
I can tell you, this EXACT same thing was happening to me... after about 30 min of driving, the rear end will heat up causing the clutch pack in the rear end to expand and rub when its going out. The reason it only happens in turns is because this is when the clutch pack is engaging. When one wheel is turning fast than the other the clutch engages. After time, this rubbing will turn into grinding. I am willing to bet it is your clutch pack.. have a proffesional check it out... I had to have mine replaced. luckily I had just purchased the car and made the dealer pay for it. Would have been about 700$.
 
#17 ·
Someone from a different forum suggested this, any thoughts?

"During tight turns the inner and outer wheels are turning at different rates. The traction lock clutches have to release to allow this to happen. If the fluid is bad (e.g. has been overheated severely, is low etc) or is missing the friction modifier, the clutches may chatter or "jump" as the differential tries to work. This could cause rubbing."
 
#20 ·
An experienced tech should be able to diagnose it without taking it off. The sound and smell are pretty distinct. Otherwise they will have to drain and pop off the case. Don't try and do it yourself. And yes, I was about to say, while its open toss some gears in there!! labor on a gear swap is expensive, but while its apart it should not be much more.
 
#22 ·
Good call, Nutterbutter :)

A good mechanic can diagnos this pretty easy and fix you up.

Jazzer
 
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