fpdm/fuel pump wiring upgrade

SWEET2KSTANG · February 11th, 2009, 07:25 AM

i did a wiring up grade on my car and these are the steps i took:

went to parts store and picked up 25ft of 10 gauge wire (i've heard some people using 8ga wire), universal relay, 30A inline fuse fitting, t-fittings, and package of misc electrical fittings.

disconnect negative off battery

solder the inline fuse to one end of the 10ga wire, this will be the end that will be hooked to 12+ scource

run the 10ga wire thru thru the engine compartment, thru the wire groment on drivers side firewall.

i already had my interior out, but you will atleast need to pull up the carpet on the drivers side. route the wire under the carpet to the back. i ran mine with the factory wiring under the carpet to keep secure and clean.

find a place you want to mount your relay to, i mounted mine on the bracket that holds fpdm.

the power wire that was ran to the back will be connected to pin 30 on the realy. after you find where you want to mount the relay, cut the power wire to length needed.

pull harness off the fpdm, and cut the tape back off the factory wire harness to expose all the wires to the connector. cut the pink/black trace wire, be sure to leave enough wire to put a connector on!

the pink/black wire that comes off the fpdm connector will need to be lengthed and connected to pin 87 on the relay. the wire that runs in the harness will need to be lengthened and be connected to pin 86.

now this is the part that can get exciting. the tank will need to be lowered enough to get to the wiring on the fuel pump hat.

the extra wire that was was cut off from the power wire will be used to run from the fpdm harness to fuel pump hat. run the wire down to the tank so it will reach the fuel pump hat. i routed the wire down thru the grommet directly below the inertia switch.

locate the brown/pink wire on the fuel pump hat and tap into it with either a t fitting or a quick splice. connect the wire you ran down to the tank to this wire. be sure that the wire is tucked up safely and wont be getting pinched or cut.

you can mount the tank back up and pull the extra length of wire up to get out the slack. connect that wire to the brown/pink wire on the fpdm harness.

pin 85 will need to be grounded with same gauge wire that the power wire is. i used the same ground that the fpdm was using.

zip tie everything up, clean up, and put interior back together.

SWEET2KSTANG · February 11th, 2009, 07:26 AM

connect the power wire to the side of the fuse block that the battery + wire goes to. install fuse and hook battery back up.

~C~ · February 11th, 2009, 07:36 AM

Damn nice write up Sweet! How long did this take you to do?

SWEET2KSTANG · February 11th, 2009, 07:42 AM

i was changing my fuel pump, and detailing my interior the same night. i think without taking the interior completely out, this could be done in about 2-3hrs depending how familiar you are with droping the tank.

PapaSmurf · February 11th, 2009, 07:58 AM

very nice writup Mike

R3dFyre02 · February 11th, 2009, 11:16 AM

dumb question, but what does this do? just give a few more amps and true 13.5 volts from th alt to the pump rather than run its power through the cars wiring harness?

RyanGT · February 11th, 2009, 11:21 AM

yeah, free's up a few % duty cycle. Its not much but every little bit helps! Although this is generally done with a BAP. I don't see it in these pics.

Trick Tuners · February 11th, 2009, 12:58 PM

Nice write up! I would love it if you could cut and past it onto the DIY section of my forums. The "How to" section for the DIY guys - Trick Tuners Forums If you are too lazy to register and will allow me to copy and paste i can do that too. rep'd

SWEET2KSTANG · February 11th, 2009, 04:43 PM

will do.

gills99stang · March 15th, 2010, 02:30 PM

Update the pics...!

SWEET2KSTANG · March 15th, 2010, 09:19 PM

update the pics? not enough or you need more? my fuel system has been thru another make over so its not the same as it was then.

Mizark347 · March 15th, 2010, 11:03 PM

Would anything be done differently if you were using a KB Boost-A-Pump?

SWEET2KSTANG · March 16th, 2010, 01:36 AM

i believe all you will have to do is instead of cutting the wire to go to the relay, connect it to BAP. the wire from the BAP will go to the relay on pin 87 and the other end will still be on pin 86.

gills99stang · March 16th, 2010, 01:02 PM

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG

update the pics? not enough or you need more? my fuel system has been thru another make over so its not the same as it was then.

Your Photobucket picture links are expired...

BakerFX4 · October 31st, 2010, 11:06 AM

I see that the larger wire was put together above the hat. Doesnt that just bottle neck the power that goes to the pump. Same thing to the FPDM. I dont see how its helping if you still have the stock smaller wire going to the pump or FPDM. That smaller wire can only run so much through it. On the GT pumps, couldnt you just finish running the wire through the hat down to the pumps with the spade connector on the end? Would that make it a little better?

BakerFX4 · October 31st, 2010, 11:57 AM

Post from an electical engineer guy or something...

A bottle neck is a bottle neck. if the wire guage at the input or output wire is smaller, then that said wire becomes the weak link, possibly weaker than the fuse you install at the beginning of the circuit and therefore the short piece of wire would melt first before the fuse would blow (in theory) I really think this upgrade is pointless unless you "upgrade" all the wire. Amperage is the "number" of electrons the more electrons that can fit the more work that can be done a bottle neck by use of small guage wire will not allow anymore electrons through than it can support, and is useless. Has anyone actually proven that this upgrade works? We were getting ready to do this to a friend of mines 4v car and after I saw what everyone is doing by way of splicing into the existing wire I wasn't interested. I guess thats why this kit is designed for the BAP because it provides the same size wire all the way to the BAP and is a good install for it. To me it is junk for the fpdm if you are leaving existing wire in place..
just my 2 cents.
lata,
Matt

JTs03v6 · October 31st, 2010, 12:22 PM

I used 1/2" of solid 12g wiring and replaced the 16g inside all of the pins. Actually radio shack has replacement pins and thats what I used instead of reusing the stock ones.

BakerFX4 · October 31st, 2010, 12:55 PM

In this pic, the pink and black wires could be drilled out of the hat and just continue the larger wire into the hat and put a spade connector on it, onto the pump.Then just silicone around the SMALL holes where your wire went through. Seems like a better deal to me than just cutting the wire above the hat.

limited · October 31st, 2010, 12:57 PM

I ran 12 guage from the fpdm to the pumps by making my own pass thru connections at hat. just have to make sure they are leak free(both fuel and air) or you will get evap codes. with a bap prefpdm that will raise the power handling capabilities of the fpdm by raising voltage which allows a lower current for the same amount of work.

kinda of like a high power transmission line, it carries 750,000v but only 3a thats why they get away with a wire about an inch thick to power a city

BakerFX4 · October 31st, 2010, 12:57 PM

And there has to be a way to go straight into the FPDM plug/pin with larger wire too. I might tear all my stuff down next weekend or so and figure it all out.

February 11th, 2009, 07:25 AM	#1
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	fpdm wiring upgrade i did a wiring up grade on my car and these are the steps i took: went to parts store and picked up 25ft of 10 gauge wire (i've heard some people using 8ga wire), universal relay, 30A inline fuse fitting, t-fittings, and package of misc electrical fittings. disconnect negative off battery solder the inline fuse to one end of the 10ga wire, this will be the end that will be hooked to 12+ scource run the 10ga wire thru thru the engine compartment, thru the wire groment on drivers side firewall. i already had my interior out, but you will atleast need to pull up the carpet on the drivers side. route the wire under the carpet to the back. i ran mine with the factory wiring under the carpet to keep secure and clean. find a place you want to mount your relay to, i mounted mine on the bracket that holds fpdm. the power wire that was ran to the back will be connected to pin 30 on the realy. after you find where you want to mount the relay, cut the power wire to length needed. pull harness off the fpdm, and cut the tape back off the factory wire harness to expose all the wires to the connector. cut the pink/black trace wire, be sure to leave enough wire to put a connector on! the pink/black wire that comes off the fpdm connector will need to be lengthed and connected to pin 87 on the relay. the wire that runs in the harness will need to be lengthened and be connected to pin 86. now this is the part that can get exciting. the tank will need to be lowered enough to get to the wiring on the fuel pump hat. the extra wire that was was cut off from the power wire will be used to run from the fpdm harness to fuel pump hat. run the wire down to the tank so it will reach the fuel pump hat. i routed the wire down thru the grommet directly below the inertia switch. locate the brown/pink wire on the fuel pump hat and tap into it with either a t fitting or a quick splice. connect the wire you ran down to the tank to this wire. be sure that the wire is tucked up safely and wont be getting pinched or cut. you can mount the tank back up and pull the extra length of wire up to get out the slack. connect that wire to the brown/pink wire on the fpdm harness. pin 85 will need to be grounded with same gauge wire that the power wire is. i used the same ground that the fpdm was using. zip tie everything up, clean up, and put interior back together. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance Last edited by SWEET2KSTANG; February 11th, 2009 at 07:32 AM.

February 11th, 2009, 07:26 AM	#2
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	connect the power wire to the side of the fuse block that the battery + wire goes to. install fuse and hook battery back up. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

February 11th, 2009, 07:36 AM	#3
~C~ ~C~, The Other White Meat! Y2K YellowJacket GT ~TBD~ Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: West side B-More Posts: 1,710 iTrader: 2 reviews	Damn nice write up Sweet! How long did this take you to do? __________________ BLOWN Bumblebeast! 370 rwhp / 381 ft lbs ~Tuned by JJ at WMS "Like the blind man says......We shall see...."

February 11th, 2009, 07:42 AM	#4
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	i was changing my fuel pump, and detailing my interior the same night. i think without taking the interior completely out, this could be done in about 2-3hrs depending how familiar you are with droping the tank. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

February 11th, 2009, 07:58 AM	#5
PapaSmurf Hardcore Enthusiast 2003 Mustang GT 12.28 @ 116 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chesapeake, VA Posts: 2,472 iTrader: 11 reviews	very nice writup Mike __________________ 2003 Sonic Blue GT---SLP Longtubes, SLP X, Magnaflow Magnapack CB, 75mm TB/Plenum, MP2 Performance stage 2 heads, MHS Stage 3R cams, Built rear w/4.30's

February 11th, 2009, 11:16 AM	#6
R3dFyre02 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,180 iTrader: 2 reviews	dumb question, but what does this do? just give a few more amps and true 13.5 volts from th alt to the pump rather than run its power through the cars wiring harness? __________________ 02GT - Blown motor 86LX 3.8TBI auto replacement daily driver How to retrofit HID's

February 11th, 2009, 11:21 AM	#7
RyanGT MM Fanatic 2000 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lynnwood, Washington Posts: 4,258 iTrader: 4 reviews	yeah, free's up a few % duty cycle. Its not much but every little bit helps! Although this is generally done with a BAP. I don't see it in these pics. __________________ 2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD)

February 11th, 2009, 12:58 PM	#8
Trick Tuners MM Fanatic KB'd GT Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: San Diego Posts: 4,471 iTrader: 3 reviews	Nice write up! I would love it if you could cut and past it onto the DIY section of my forums. The "How to" section for the DIY guys - Trick Tuners Forums If you are too lazy to register and will allow me to copy and paste i can do that too. rep'd __________________ Check out my forums for stuff on troubleshooting, tuning, etc We teamed up with Socal Performance Racing to bring dyno tuning to San Diego. Be friends with us on FB

February 11th, 2009, 04:43 PM	#9
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	will do. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

March 15th, 2010, 02:30 PM	#10
gills99stang Achieving more N/A power! When this baby hits 88 miles an hour... Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia Posts: 3,154 iTrader: 3 reviews	Update the pics...! __________________ Brendan '99 Mustang GT [ 318 rwhp N/A ] - SOLD () '04 F150 XLT SuperCab

March 15th, 2010, 09:19 PM	#11
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	update the pics? not enough or you need more? my fuel system has been thru another make over so its not the same as it was then. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

March 15th, 2010, 11:03 PM	#12
Mizark347 Regular Join Date: May 2009 Location: Michigan Posts: 310 iTrader: 0 reviews	Would anything be done differently if you were using a KB Boost-A-Pump?

March 16th, 2010, 01:36 AM	#13
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,430 iTrader: 8 reviews	i believe all you will have to do is instead of cutting the wire to go to the relay, connect it to BAP. the wire from the BAP will go to the relay on pin 87 and the other end will still be on pin 86. __________________ project warhorse under construction being built by MP2 Performance

October 31st, 2010, 11:06 AM	#15
BakerFX4 I Post Entirely Way Too Much Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 15,607 iTrader: 14 reviews	I see that the larger wire was put together above the hat. Doesnt that just bottle neck the power that goes to the pump. Same thing to the FPDM. I dont see how its helping if you still have the stock smaller wire going to the pump or FPDM. That smaller wire can only run so much through it. On the GT pumps, couldnt you just finish running the wire through the hat down to the pumps with the spade connector on the end? Would that make it a little better? __________________ Last edited by BakerFX4; October 31st, 2010 at 11:27 AM.

October 31st, 2010, 11:57 AM	#16
BakerFX4 I Post Entirely Way Too Much Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 15,607 iTrader: 14 reviews	Post from an electical engineer guy or something... A bottle neck is a bottle neck. if the wire guage at the input or output wire is smaller, then that said wire becomes the weak link, possibly weaker than the fuse you install at the beginning of the circuit and therefore the short piece of wire would melt first before the fuse would blow (in theory) I really think this upgrade is pointless unless you "upgrade" all the wire. Amperage is the "number" of electrons the more electrons that can fit the more work that can be done a bottle neck by use of small guage wire will not allow anymore electrons through than it can support, and is useless. Has anyone actually proven that this upgrade works? We were getting ready to do this to a friend of mines 4v car and after I saw what everyone is doing by way of splicing into the existing wire I wasn't interested. I guess thats why this kit is designed for the BAP because it provides the same size wire all the way to the BAP and is a good install for it. To me it is junk for the fpdm if you are leaving existing wire in place.. just my 2 cents. lata, Matt __________________

October 31st, 2010, 12:22 PM	#17
JTs03v6 Hardcore Enthusiast 2003 mustang 7.48x1.56=11.67 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: East Coast Posts: 2,213 iTrader: 0 reviews	I used 1/2" of solid 12g wiring and replaced the 16g inside all of the pins. Actually radio shack has replacement pins and thats what I used instead of reusing the stock ones. __________________ New combo: Forged SC short Block,280cfm heads, Precision 6262 turbo, cx 31x12x3 fmic http://photobucket.com/JTsTurboBuild http://youtube.com/user/JTsStang

October 31st, 2010, 12:55 PM	#18
BakerFX4 I Post Entirely Way Too Much Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 15,607 iTrader: 14 reviews	In this pic, the pink and black wires could be drilled out of the hat and just continue the larger wire into the hat and put a spade connector on it, onto the pump.Then just silicone around the SMALL holes where your wire went through. Seems like a better deal to me than just cutting the wire above the hat. __________________

October 31st, 2010, 12:57 PM	#19
limited Premium Member 99 limited edition vert Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Tacoma,Washington Posts: 3,067 iTrader: 0 reviews	I ran 12 guage from the fpdm to the pumps by making my own pass thru connections at hat. just have to make sure they are leak free(both fuel and air) or you will get evap codes. with a bap prefpdm that will raise the power handling capabilities of the fpdm by raising voltage which allows a lower current for the same amount of work. kinda of like a high power transmission line, it carries 750,000v but only 3a thats why they get away with a wire about an inch thick to power a city __________________ KB'd 446rwhp/451rwtq, Mustang Dyno http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZDpQ0EEm1M Tuned by Joe at http://www.tricktuners.com

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fpdm/fuel pump wiring upgrade

fpdm wiring upgrade