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#41 |
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Moderator
2010 mustang gt auto
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: creighton pa
Posts: 7,477
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don't you guys think your kinda going over board here? the o/p has a d/d with no plans to race/etc. who would put the thousands you guys are sugesting into a d/d ? best bet for the o/p is a used pi motor. the options you guys came up with are very unrealistic, 1600 dollar stroker kit? try 5k once your done with machine work, labor, tune, etc. 4500 dollar long block? try 6k + after labor & install. 3k+ new? again 1k+ labor by the time your done. used, even at 800 plus install your still way under 2k.
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MM BRACKET RACING CREW CO-FOUNDER BAMA Performance Drag Team Founder 2010 GT auto
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#42 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1999 3V GT/2007 GT D/D
corner carver
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Posts: 2,730
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I have 2 sets. One out of my 99 GT with around 70,000 miles on them, and one set out of a 2007 GT with 1,500 on them. Both are bone stock and have nothing wrong with them. I removed them to instal forged internals for FI. I would let one of them go for a few hundred. All you would need is some new piston rings, I didnt keep those.
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#43 |
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MM Fanatic
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why do you think i asked if money was an issue.. she said it wasnt an issue so i opted for the most reliable NEW mmr 600 long block. and if she wants can slap a 150 shot on there for shits an giggles and wont have to worry
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#44 |
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Moderator
2010 mustang gt auto
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: creighton pa
Posts: 7,477
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oh I hear you, & cant say I don't agree but given what she said about not racing & d/d, it seems much more practical to get used, IMO. alot of people think money isn't an issue untill they find out the "money" is ten times what they thought.
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MM BRACKET RACING CREW CO-FOUNDER BAMA Performance Drag Team Founder 2010 GT auto
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#45 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1999 3V GT/2007 GT D/D
corner carver
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Posts: 2,730
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^+1
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#46 |
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MM Fanatic
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lol true that
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#47 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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"UnixHH~ Setting up daily drivers with beasty, bored out racecars. That's the MM way."
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![]() 99' Rio Red Mustang GT: --My Garage-- Check garage. Vortech V-1 intercooled running 9lbs of boost Life= eat, lift, eat, eat, eat, sleep, repeat
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#48 | |
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MM Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Under a sombrero
Posts: 4,564
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I agree, if all that is wanted is a dd. A low milage/cost OEM used engine makes the most sense.
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2000 GT 665/540rwhp/rwtq Best 1/4: AT 431HP 12.29 @ 124 AT 515HP 11.24 @ 129 AT 638HP 11.01 @ 135 AT 665HP ??.?? @ ??? 80*+day, 1400' track, 10.5" DD Cobra R's & 315/35/17DR'S Trap speed = true measurement of HP.
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#49 | |
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MM Fanatic
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![]() Ps: it's wayyy too early to be at work
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#50 |
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MM Fanatic
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Knowing your female won't change the fact that you can do mechanical things. I know of one particular female in the F-Body (Camaor, Trans Am, Firebird) world that does her own work. Anybody can do anything if you put your mind to it. If you want the satisfaction of building your own engine I suggest the shortblock kit (third from the bottom):
Sean Hyland Motorsport - 1996-04 Ford Mustang GT and Cobra 2V and 4V Forged Rotating Assemblies It may be a bit over whelming, but Sean Hyland also has videos and books on how to build your own engine. You can keep driving on the stock motor while you build the new one. Obviously this isn't the best option for you, but it would be an exciting route to take. I would say go with an oem engine out of junkyard personally. That's the best option. |
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