[jivepepper]

Right now I have the cooling mod utilizing a fitting that goes into the soft plug in the rear of the drivers head. I go from there and tee into the heater core inlet hose. The set up is unsightly and likes to leak. Because it has a total of 8 clamps. I had to do this to make the sharp transition, and not kink the hose.



Pretty. :tard:



My new TFS intake has a 3/8 npt out on the drivers side in the rear like the passenger side and theres a extra 3/8 npt on the crossover. Isn't this supposed to be the beast way anyway? I thought about getting 2. 3/8 npt to -8 an male fittings for each side. Then 2. -8 an to 45* barb fittings and just use hose in between.

So should I spend the 30 dollars to do this?

I want to plug off the fitting in the head. What would be the best thing or way to do this? It's almost impossible I would expect to get the soft plug in while the engine is in the car?

crossover TFS


drivers rear TFS


Fittings I want to use




My supposed diagram lol. The red arrow is were the fitting in the head comes out now.

[ajm]

Fancy diagram you have there . Any arrows you can put in pics to show what you want to plug on the head? I got kind of lost, im too tired.

Or if youre talking about plugging the fitting in the first pic and you could get away with plugging what looks to be a black line/hose coming off of it maybe you could get some steel rod or similar that fits very tightly into the hose, cut a small 1" piece of it, shuv it in the hose and put a worm clamp or two on it. If its a steel hard line id chop it off as short as possible or whatever is reasonable enough for you. Pinch the end together real well with some vice grips and weld a small bead across the top where its pinched together.

[jivepepper]

Originally Posted by ajm Fancy diagram you have there . Any arrows you can put in pics to show what you want to plug on the head? I got kind of lost, im too tired. Or if youre talking about plugging the fitting in the first pic and you could get away with plugging what looks to be a black line/hose coming off of it maybe you could get some steel rod or similar that fits very tightly into the hose, cut a small 1" piece of it, shuv it in the hose and put a worm clamp or two on it. If its a steel hard line id chop it off as short as possible or whatever is reasonable enough for you. Pinch the end together real well with some vice grips and weld a small bead across the top where its pinched together.

This a pic of where the first pic's fitting comes out at when the head is installed.

Edit opps

[RyanGT]

My vote is to do it! what is 30 bucks for a real nice setup thats not such a hack job like the "cooling mod". Thats my opinion will be stronger/cleaner (no 8 clamps).

[jivepepper]

Originally Posted by RyanGT My vote is to do it! what is 30 bucks for a real nice setup thats not such a hack job like the "cooling mod". Thats my opinion will be stronger/cleaner (no 8 clamps).

Well they are both cooling mods. just a better way. The fitting in the head taps generally the same area.

[mylilboostedpony]

i like it and since its a cooling mod id like to know how to do it myself. even though its ghetto! if it works, it works can u write out easier instructions so idiots like me can read?? thanks

[SWEET2KSTANG]

usually the cooling mod just taps off the rear of the drivers side and runs a line to the passenger side.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

like here:

Home

[jivepepper]

Originally Posted by mylilboostedpony i like it and since its a cooling mod id like to know how to do it myself. even though its ghetto! if it works, it works can u write out easier instructions so idiots like me can read?? thanks

Well the water in drivers rear head area doesn't flow well . But the pass side does because the intake has the out the goes through the heater core then back into the back of the water pump via the little coolant tube that runs under the intake.

By removing the rear soft plug from the back of the drivers head and putting the fitting in the first pic in place of it allows the water a path out like the pass side. You come out of it and T into the heater core hose on the pass side. Then it will also flow through the heater core and into the water pump.

If you have a stock intake this is about the only way you can do it. People have tapped the stock intake and have made it work but a lot of people have also developed cracked intakes and leaks also.

The TFS intake pictured above already has provisions for this mod instead of T'ing it into the heater core on the pass side I'm just running it into the front water crossover.

Most Pre detonation occurs in cylinders 7-8 because they run hotter.

[mylilboostedpony]

lol im still confused but im getting there XD

[jivepepper]

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG usually the cooling mod just taps off the rear of the drivers side and runs a line to the passenger side.

Thats what I was doing with the crack pipe mods like we use call back in the day. It actually a little beter brought to the fron crossover. It hard to flow both sides through the heater core. But it's better than nothing.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

guys on here doing that same mod in the stock plastic intake. drill and tap the area's, run the fittings like you have up there, and a cooling line to each other.

[jivepepper]

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG guys on here doing that same mod in the stock plastic intake. drill and tap the area's, run the fittings like you have up there, and a cooling line to each other.

Many have also developed leaks and cracks because the plastic fatigues around the fitting. I have blown coolant all over the track and the do not like it for some reason.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

i understand that. the track officials dont seem to care too much for coolant leaks . i dont think there is and "actuall" better way to do it wether its from the front to back or to each side, it may be more of a personal preference thing.

[jivepepper]

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG i understand that. the track officials dont seem to care too much for coolant leaks . i dont think there is and "actuall" better way to do it wether its from the front to back or to each side, it may be more of a personal preference thing.

I said the same thing but some tuners over a mod depot. Jerry and them from SCT convinced me different after data logging.

The theory is that the heater core becomes a restriction when bought heads flow through it and the coolant tube under the intake is not large enough in diameter for both to flow well as possible.

While it makes the driver side run a little cooler the passenger side is a little hotter than normal. Better than not having one, but not ideal. I did run mine that way for years.

I feel for a stock intake the soft plug fitting is more reliable alternative.

[UnixHH]

i had no idea that this was an issue.. i love you guys.. so 7 and 8 dont get adaquate coolant flow? could you explain to me what i need to do for this mod.. im not tracking 100%. do you think i should do this mod?

[SWEET2KSTANG]

when pushing the motor with power adder of built, then yes. this is a supporting mod.

[UnixHH]

feed me knowledge sweet! i wana know more lol
i breifly googled and got alot of premade cooling mods for the 4v what do i need to do? sounds like what i will be doing tomorrow

[UnixHH]

o and jive.. please do this to your water neck... or something .. looks like death
www.imoc.co.uk :: Polishing aluminum engine parts to a mirror finish

[SWEET2KSTANG]

the flow is not great on the cylinders because of design and the way ford routed all the passages and and flow areas. when you start to push more heat into the cylinder, there is insufficient coolant to keep cylinders cool like it suppose to. this can lead to several different issues with the cylinder(s) that are hotter than others, in this case #7 & 8. look at the frpp performance blocks, the cast of the blocks deal and fix this issue.