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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
eventually @ something
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Your mom's cooter
Posts: 1,991
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Rear Lower Control Arms Install!
So nobodys seein my older post so here we go! lol. I just bought Kenny Brown non adj. rear lower control arms. I've heard its an easy install but just wana make sure thers nothin out of the ordinary I'll have to do as I'll only have an hour and a half tomorrow in autoshop to do it. I found one write up...but will I need a spring compressor??? The only write up I found says I will need a spring compressor to take them off...I have smaller than stock springs though. Also, it has all this stuff about removing sway bar and stuff with brakes and brake lines...?
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#2 |
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MM Fanatic
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no you dont need a spring compressor
you need 4 jackstands and 2 jacks jack up the car untill about full lenght of 2 of your jack stands and then support the car by the frame if you jacked it up by the diff then you are going to need to let the suspension drop all the way down and then jack it up about 1/2 - 1" and then support the axle housing with the 2 other jack stands now remove your sway bar (4 bolts, 2 on each control arm) now take one of your jacks and place it underneath were one of the control arms attaches to the axle tube. lift it up untill it just barely pushes on it. then take that bolt out (might take some lube or some persuasion) once the bolt is out SLOWLY lower the jack until the control arm drops all the way down. the spring should just fall out on its side. then remove the other bolt on the control arm (kinda tricky if your mufflers are too close to the hole in the subframe) reverse process on the install, make sure to use some loctite and torque everything to spec. repeat for the other side reinstall your sway bar and your done
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#3 |
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MM Fanatic
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o yea the thing about the brake lines is just a little clip that holds the line that is bolted to the control arms for either side you have to swap those to the new control arms
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#4 |
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April 2012 ROTM
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It should be a pretty easy deal lol jack up the ass end under the differential with a floor jack, then put some stands under the torque boxes, let the rear end droop back down, remove sway bar from both sides (four bolts, 2 on each LCA), remove the abs line holder (2 bolts, 1 on each LCA) pick a side to start on and put a floor jack with a block of wood on it under the lower control arm where it connects to the rear end, put light pressure on it, remove the bolt ( I forget what the wrench sizes are lol) it may take some persuasion so keep a hammer and a piece of brass/copper handy, once you get the bolt out SLOWLY lower the floor jack, the lca will flop down and the spring will be completely unloaded ( as safe as it gets as long as you dont drop the spring on your foot haha) pull out the spring (dont be afraid to push down on the LCA if you need clearance), remove the spring isolator from the LCA ( no need to remove the upper one if it decides to stick up in there) take the bolt out of the front of the LCA located inside the torque box ( you may need to reposition your stands), wiggle the old arm out and set it aside, Grab your new arm (might be marked left and right depending on company i would imagine), slide it up into the torque box, put some grease on the bolt before you put it back in so its easier to get out next time, put some BLUE loctight on the threads, torque the nut to spec, put the spring back in WITH the iso's (dont rig it and leave em out hopin to get some drop from it) and the pig tail on the bottom facin the drivers side of the car, put your floor jack back under the LCA and raise it back up until the holes align with the mounts on the axle (the spring is loaded now and potentially very dangerous!! so be ready with your bolt) grease the bolt, slide it in, apply BLUE loctite, and torque to spec, repeat everything for the other side + reinstall your sway bar and abs line holders. If the arm doesnt want to line up exactly with the rear end horizontally put a ratchet strap around the axle and through the back opening in the torque box, it wont take much and it wont bend anything.....If the LCA bolts come out easily you can definetly have this done in an hour and a half...happy wrenching!
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True blue crew founder/member #1378/442 rwhp/rwtq*on a Mustang dyno* cams are in..#'s coming this summer |
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#5 |
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April 2012 ROTM
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damn it unixx!!! you beat me to it!!! lol
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True blue crew founder/member #1378/442 rwhp/rwtq*on a Mustang dyno* cams are in..#'s coming this summer |
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#6 |
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MM Fanatic
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7609006215 <~~ phone number if you get stuck.......
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#7 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
eventually @ something
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Your mom's cooter
Posts: 1,991
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Ummm...I'm doing this on a lift
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#8 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
eventually @ something
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Your mom's cooter
Posts: 1,991
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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Also...what am I torquing it to?
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#9 |
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April 2012 ROTM
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IMO it would be alot easier jus to do it on a floor....let me go dig out my chilton book lol I better be gettin some freakin reps for this! lol
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True blue crew founder/member #1378/442 rwhp/rwtq*on a Mustang dyno* cams are in..#'s coming this summer |
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#10 |
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MM Fanatic
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65ft/lbs if my memory serves me correctly and 45ft/lbs on the sway bar
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#11 |
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MM Fanatic
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and yes floor way easier unless you have one of those lifts that has an air jack that slides between the ramps
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#12 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
eventually @ something
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Your mom's cooter
Posts: 1,991
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nice nice. Ummm so im gona drive onto the lift, lift up ass end, take off wheels, take off sway bar, disconnect brake thing, wood block under LCA and lift it a bit to get the bolt out, pull out, slowly let down LCA and take out spring, disconnect other bolt to get off the LCA then replace with new one, torque, other side, then brake stuff and sway bar back on?
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#13 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
eventually @ something
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Your mom's cooter
Posts: 1,991
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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#14 |
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MM Fanatic
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111 and 41 sorry
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#15 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
eventually @ something
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Your mom's cooter
Posts: 1,991
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111 ft lbs on LCA....41 on sway bar. gotcha.
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#16 |
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MM Fanatic
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the rear has to be supported sperate of the body and the rear suspension has to be let all the way down it will be difficult on a lift
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#17 |
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MM Fanatic
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#18 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
eventually @ something
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Your mom's cooter
Posts: 1,991
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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even with the lifters between the ramps? and wood blocks to help? i can use a jack if i choose to i just thought lift wud be easier.
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#19 |
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MM Fanatic
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the body needs to come up high enough to let the wheels come off the ground and then supported that high. wheels must be off the ground. then you would jack just the rear up 1" and then support the rear. then you support the bottom of the control arm with a jack and take the bolt out on the axle and slowly let the jack down .. if you just pop that bolt out shit will go flying (i dont think it would be very easy to do but its possible) thats why the jack is there to slowly let the control arm come down
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![]() 480RWHP 450RWTQ 15psi @ 15* on 91 octane |
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#20 |
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April 2012 ROTM
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+1 those numbers are right on the money...111 on the lca's and 41 on the sway bar....floor ftw! trust us lol
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True blue crew founder/member #1378/442 rwhp/rwtq*on a Mustang dyno* cams are in..#'s coming this summer |
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