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#1 |
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Enthusiast
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Buying Hitech stage 2 cams! Need some questions answered---- DIY install
Well i'm buying hitech stage 2 cams, bbk 78mm TB and plenum, and a stewart water pump. i'm at 256/287 right now.
Anyways, the guy at hitech said he'd do the install of the cams for $350. but i kinda want to save myself the 350 and do the install myself. good idea? i've got a friend that has built motors before and is pretty much a genius at these things. he just said that the only thing that would make it hard for us is if we had to degree the cams. do i need to do that? or is it just taking everything off like the chain and making timing marks and putting it all back together. i'm only doing the cams, no springs. hitech said i dont need the springs i'll be fine. I trust him, he's a very well known guy around here. After the install can i drive it without a tune right away? just be nice to it... i'll get a custom dyno tune soon after it..... thanks guys! -Tmac
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#2 |
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Enthusiast
2002 MUSTANG GT
14.2@100
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: cape may
Posts: 631
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you dont need a tune but it will net you the most outta them. and you should degree them. some will chime in and say you HAVE to degree them but someone on here did it without degreeing and everything was fine. he just didnt get as much hp outta them as he could have. its kinda risky too cause the cams differ from side to side and degreeing them makes sure you get the timing on both side dead nut balls. i would degree them if it were me. 350 isnt that bad.
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#3 |
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Enthusiast
2000 Mustang Gt
13.56 @ 106
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: CT
Posts: 806
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it's not too hard if you can follow directions. there are on this site somewhere.
degreeing is a little tougher. and that cam WILL need a tune
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JLT - Accufab - MPH Heads - VT Stage 2 N/A cams Manley Valves/Springs - Centerforce Dual Friction BBK LT's - BBK o/r H - Bassani catback FRPP 4.10s - XCAL2 - BBK UDP's 306rwhp/333rwtq |
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#4 |
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I Blumpkin Entirely Way Too Much
2005 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: kansas
Posts: 5,958
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just make sure that u install the left cam into the driver side, cams are not universal!!! lmao trust me
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#5 |
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Regular
Join Date: May 2008
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when i had my hitechs installed, (i payed to have it done) i did no springs and no degreeing, with all the bolt ons minus the UDPS, and had it tuned it put down 294rwhp and 307tq, you can drive it without a tune just fine, just make sure you have enough bypass air or it will idle like a alcohol car
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#6 |
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Enthusiast
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Lol kool, thanks everyone. As for the install should I just replace my valve cover head gaskets with new ones or? And Any other parts I need besides the cams?
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#7 | |
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Enthusiast
1965 Mustang Fastback
N/A
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As for bypass air, shouldn't your IAC make the proper adjustments? Last edited by RAGEman; May 13th, 2009 at 08:54 AM. |
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#8 | |
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Enthusiast
1965 Mustang Fastback
N/A
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: La Porte, Texas
Posts: 819
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Valve cover gaskets Timing cover gasket RTV Plasti-guage (I used it, you don't have to) Assembly lube A torque wrench that reads in/lbs Paint pen about 5 hours I highly recommend you use a zip-tie to keep the chain in place on the cam gear, it's just a sure fire way to know that you've got it right. And be sure to put a very good mark on the crank to know where they sit. Other then that, it's an easy job, and you'll enjoy it. EDIT: Ah, you have a 2000, you will also need cam gears. Yours are pressed on if I remember correctly. I have some I can sell you. Brand new. PM me if you're interested. Last edited by RAGEman; May 13th, 2009 at 09:03 AM. |
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#9 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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no u WILL NOT need a tune!
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If It Dont Flow It Wont Go!!!![]() forged pistons,teksid block and a romeo cast cranks for sale.. pm if interested.. selling them for next too nothing |
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#10 |
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Enthusiast
1965 Mustang Fastback
N/A
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Location: La Porte, Texas
Posts: 819
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#11 | |
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Enthusiast
2001 GT
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bivalve MD
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I sure dont understand the ziptie part as all these parts will be removed and taken apart. I would suggest having some new nylon tensioner guides on hand as these are shot or close to it most of the time.you will also need a otc valvespring tool if doing them while heads are on the engine. dont remember the part number off the top off my head. thats if you do springs which I would suggest. if you do make sure you put some rags in the holes in the bottom side of the heads or you will lose a keeper in your oil pan. if you do springs pm me I have a few good tips for you or if you have any other questions. John
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03 Mach 1 full eaton swap, 18" chrome bullitts, H&R springs, 5.0 shifter, slp2, mac catted H, FRP 4.10's,443 RWHP/ 386 TQ |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1989 LX Coupe
7.1@99mph
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Texas
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Timing Cover gaskets...not needed...rubber and reusable Plasti-gage...?????? For what? He is installing cams....wtf? Assembly lube...light oil will work, you aren't assembling a 'dry' motor...but it won't hurt. TQ wrench is needed. Paint pen may be 5 hours for NO springs...ok...I guess. I highly reccomend taking the timing cover off and degreeing your cams. I have seen them off so far that one motor will be fine and the next will have PTVC problems. It isn't JUST to get the most power out of your car...its about making sure they FIT. And he is correct...if you have a 2000...you WILL need new cam gears, bolts, washers and spacers. You do NOT have a Romeo...you have a Windsor motor. Good luck.
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89 LX Coupe-Carb'd 32v-437rwhp NA, 592rwhp N20 01 Bullitt-32v swapped 96 GT-Cammed E85 www.KPERacing.com |
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#13 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1989 LX Coupe
7.1@99mph
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89 LX Coupe-Carb'd 32v-437rwhp NA, 592rwhp N20 01 Bullitt-32v swapped 96 GT-Cammed E85 www.KPERacing.com |
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#14 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1989 LX Coupe
7.1@99mph
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Texas
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Need no....he is correct...
But it won't hurt...
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89 LX Coupe-Carb'd 32v-437rwhp NA, 592rwhp N20 01 Bullitt-32v swapped 96 GT-Cammed E85 www.KPERacing.com |
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#15 | |
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Enthusiast
2001 GT
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bivalve MD
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read before you write, I said if you do springs which I suggest doing. um yeah
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03 Mach 1 full eaton swap, 18" chrome bullitts, H&R springs, 5.0 shifter, slp2, mac catted H, FRP 4.10's,443 RWHP/ 386 TQ Last edited by johnr2001; May 13th, 2009 at 05:50 PM. |
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#16 |
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Regular
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 251
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it should...but my throttle body didnt have the little hole in the center of it to all more bypass in it...my installer drilled one in and fixed the surging issue i had. Im sure not everyone will have those same problems
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#17 |
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Enthusiast
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I do have a windsor block. and press on stock cam gears.
With the hitech cams, What cam gears do i need. these?: Ford Camshafts - Performance EFI Tuning / EFI Dyno Tuning Experts - Elk River, Minnesota - Midwest Region those look like press on gears too for the hitech cams. Can pressing new cam gears on be done in a garage? or do i need a special tool? also....how do i put the cams in the same way i took the stock ones out. because i wont have the timing marks. on the chain i will. but not on the new cam gears. someone plz explain... i'm glad i'm getting all this info now, and not later. thanks a lot guys.
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#18 |
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Moderator
2012 300a gt auto
12.10@116
Join Date: Mar 2008
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this may answer some stuff for you. How to set the timing on the 4. good luck.
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#19 | |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2008
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2. Turn the crank until the chains line up with a physical feature on the cam gears that both gears have in the same location...such as a dimple or some sort of marking and use that as your reference on the cam gears. |
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#20 |
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Enthusiast
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kool thanks guys, do i need to do all of this: How to set the timing on the 4
I mean this pro at hitech motorsport says he's never had to degree cams or anthing, just a drop in cam and get a protune from him. Can i just press the new gears on the cam and line the marks back up and put em back in? or do i NEED to do all that to line them up? i'm kind of confused... sorry
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