03 GT Procharger P1sc bracket question

klep2024 · July 2nd, 2009, 01:21 AM

Hey whats goin on guys? First post on here so ill make it a good one

I changed my belt yesterday and on the way home today it shredded on me already. When we were putting everything back together it went smooth except for the stud on the lower left side of the procharger bracket. That stud seemed pretty loose and every time we tried to tighten the nut it was just pulling the stud out of the head. My question is this..does that stud actually hold the idler pully on the backside of the bracket? And if the stud wasnt tight could that be the reason im shredding belts due to the bracket flexing forward and misaligning the pully?

Also the ATI idler pully isnt spinning as freely as all the other pullys...is this normal or could it be a bad bearing in that pully that is my problem?

Thanks in advance for anyone that can help out.

dcook_14 · July 2nd, 2009, 11:43 AM

I got a longer stud than Procharger sent and put that in there so it would go all the way into the hole and still has enough stick out to get a nut and lock washer on. And that stud does hold the pulley on the backside of the bracket.

Maker sure that the threads on the stud match the threads where its supposed to go. And if any of those bolts are loose it could cause a little flex in the system and maybe lead to a belt shredding. Are you sure it's all spaced right? There is supposed to be a washer between the bracket and the block on the upper left side. And did you put in that other M8x100 full thread bolt and back that out to butt up against the bracket? That's a pretty important part.

My ATI pulley spins pretty freely, but I dont know if it would matter that yours doesnt

~C~ · July 2nd, 2009, 11:56 AM

It should spin freely. I will check mine when I get home. I remember when I installed it it was a little weird, but then we adjusted a bunch of other bolts and it worked perfectly. You may have to loosen up the head unit and the bracket and then do a few bolts at the same time....little on each till they are all done.

klep2024 · July 2nd, 2009, 03:38 PM

Awesome thanks for the info guys...i have a feeling its that lower bracket stud that is causing my problem. I'll hafta check on the washer and the other stud being backed against the bracket.

Im almost 99% sure its the lower stud tho...cuz when i had everything back together and fired it up, i noticed when i gave it some throttle it looked like that stud was spinning its way out. i slathered the stud in loctite and spun it in as far as it would go and it didnt seem to move anymore, but i still ended up shredding the belt. Im gonna tear it apart tonight and see if the thread needs helicoiled to accept that stud.

~C~ · July 2nd, 2009, 08:59 PM

you shouldnt have to helicoil it. The stud that was supplied by ati fits perfectly. the instructions are very hard to really figure out...especially the diagrams. When you do figure it out, all the parts are used you should have about a millimeter or two between the pulley and the alternator. The bolt that holds on the idler should be tight but the bearing, though a shitty one, should allow it to spin freely.

klep2024 · July 2nd, 2009, 10:22 PM

Everything is all together..my concern is with the threads inside the head that accept that stud. Thats why i was gonna helicoil it. It seems like everytime i went to tighten that nut down on the lower stud it was just spinning the stud out. When i gave it throttle the bracket flexed and the stud spun and was vibrating out of the block a bit. I'm pretty sure thats causing the pully to flex with the bracket and shredding my belt.

klep2024 · July 3rd, 2009, 07:56 PM

Alrite guys i fixed the lower stud problem..helicoiled it and reused the stud after cleaning it up..Looks like the guy i bought it fromn discovered the problem i did but decided to mickey mouse it instead of do it right. There was JB weld all over the stud when i literally unthreaded it 2 turns and then pulled the stud right out of the head. So we drilled, tapped, and permathreaded a helicoil and the stud back in the head. Fixed the flexing and the car seemed to run MUCH better and even sounded much better!

So i took it out for a drive..babied it at first til it warmed up, then flogged it a couple times. Brought it home, popped the hood and found that the belt jumped two ribs towards the block on the a/c pully...bad tensioner? What do you guys think? The pulleys seem to be aligned perfectly but my buddy noticed that when i revved it up that the tensioner was moving back and forth quite a bit.

The guy i bought it from said the tensioner hasnt been replaced since the procharger was bolted on 11000 miles ago...procharger calls for a new tensioner at 10-15,000 miles. I think its the tensioner..what do you guys think?

klep2024 · July 6th, 2009, 02:33 AM

Update: Replaced the tensioner this afternoon and everything is good to go! Thanks for all your help guys!

BakerFX4 · July 6th, 2009, 10:13 AM

glad to hear it.

~C~ · July 6th, 2009, 03:28 PM

Nice man! I will keep an eye out for my tensioner as well. Didnt know that. Good lookin out!

BOOSTED96 · July 7th, 2009, 05:19 PM

I didnt know that either with the tensioner...I think I will go get a new one this weekend since I have definitely driven the car more than 15,000 miles since the blower install

klep2024 · July 7th, 2009, 06:05 PM

Cool hopefully i saved you guys the pain in the ass of changing a shredded belt. I'm pretty much a pro at it now haha..yah if you still have your procharger manual laying around it says it right after the head unit instructions.

The tensioner was CAKE to change...one bolt. You dont even hafta take the belt off to do it, just take tension off first. The only prob i ran into was that the previous owner just decided to slap whatever bolt he had in there so i had to drill the bolt hole a little bigger in the brand new tensioner.

You also hafta grind off a piece of the tensioner by the pulley to clear the procharger bracket. I've also heard that if you dont do this the belt will rub on it and eventually shred.

02sonicGT · July 7th, 2009, 06:32 PM

Reps to the newbie kep2024 for the good info on the tensioner!

Being another sonic blue certainly helps

klep2024 · July 7th, 2009, 07:24 PM

Haha thanks man im just glad i can help out. I wouldnt wish what happened to me over the past week or so (shredded 2 belts in 36 hours, found out my new toy was ghetto rigged) on anyone at all.

To be honest sonic blue wasnt my first choice but im definitely glad i got this one. That color just pops whether its night or day.

July 2nd, 2009, 01:21 AM	#1
klep2024 Regular 03 Mustang GT Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 61 iTrader: 0 reviews	03 GT Procharger P1sc bracket question Hey whats goin on guys? First post on here so ill make it a good one I changed my belt yesterday and on the way home today it shredded on me already. When we were putting everything back together it went smooth except for the stud on the lower left side of the procharger bracket. That stud seemed pretty loose and every time we tried to tighten the nut it was just pulling the stud out of the head. My question is this..does that stud actually hold the idler pully on the backside of the bracket? And if the stud wasnt tight could that be the reason im shredding belts due to the bracket flexing forward and misaligning the pully? Also the ATI idler pully isnt spinning as freely as all the other pullys...is this normal or could it be a bad bearing in that pully that is my problem? Thanks in advance for anyone that can help out.

July 2nd, 2009, 11:56 AM	#3
~C~ ~C~, The Other White Meat! Y2K YellowJacket GT ~TBD~ Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: West side B-More Posts: 1,710 iTrader: 2 reviews	It should spin freely. I will check mine when I get home. I remember when I installed it it was a little weird, but then we adjusted a bunch of other bolts and it worked perfectly. You may have to loosen up the head unit and the bracket and then do a few bolts at the same time....little on each till they are all done. __________________ BLOWN Bumblebeast! 370 rwhp / 381 ft lbs ~Tuned by JJ at WMS "Like the blind man says......We shall see...."

July 2nd, 2009, 03:38 PM	#4
klep2024 Regular 03 Mustang GT Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 61 iTrader: 0 reviews	Awesome thanks for the info guys...i have a feeling its that lower bracket stud that is causing my problem. I'll hafta check on the washer and the other stud being backed against the bracket. Im almost 99% sure its the lower stud tho...cuz when i had everything back together and fired it up, i noticed when i gave it some throttle it looked like that stud was spinning its way out. i slathered the stud in loctite and spun it in as far as it would go and it didnt seem to move anymore, but i still ended up shredding the belt. Im gonna tear it apart tonight and see if the thread needs helicoiled to accept that stud. __________________ P1SC Procharger @ 10psi w/ 3 Core Intercooler and too many other mods to list 386 rwhp 397 rwtq Military Crew AM2-USN Always looking for 03/04 cobra body parts

July 2nd, 2009, 08:59 PM	#5
~C~ ~C~, The Other White Meat! Y2K YellowJacket GT ~TBD~ Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: West side B-More Posts: 1,710 iTrader: 2 reviews	you shouldnt have to helicoil it. The stud that was supplied by ati fits perfectly. the instructions are very hard to really figure out...especially the diagrams. When you do figure it out, all the parts are used you should have about a millimeter or two between the pulley and the alternator. The bolt that holds on the idler should be tight but the bearing, though a shitty one, should allow it to spin freely. __________________ BLOWN Bumblebeast! 370 rwhp / 381 ft lbs ~Tuned by JJ at WMS "Like the blind man says......We shall see...."

July 2nd, 2009, 10:22 PM	#6
klep2024 Regular 03 Mustang GT Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 61 iTrader: 0 reviews	Everything is all together..my concern is with the threads inside the head that accept that stud. Thats why i was gonna helicoil it. It seems like everytime i went to tighten that nut down on the lower stud it was just spinning the stud out. When i gave it throttle the bracket flexed and the stud spun and was vibrating out of the block a bit. I'm pretty sure thats causing the pully to flex with the bracket and shredding my belt. __________________ P1SC Procharger @ 10psi w/ 3 Core Intercooler and too many other mods to list 386 rwhp 397 rwtq Military Crew AM2-USN Always looking for 03/04 cobra body parts

July 2nd, 2009, 11:43 AM	#2
dcook_14 El Danno 2004 Mustang GT 12.35@114.08 w/ 1.88 60' Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Waterloo, IA Posts: 7,016 Blog Entries: 2 iTrader: 7 reviews	I got a longer stud than Procharger sent and put that in there so it would go all the way into the hole and still has enough stick out to get a nut and lock washer on. And that stud does hold the pulley on the backside of the bracket. Maker sure that the threads on the stud match the threads where its supposed to go. And if any of those bolts are loose it could cause a little flex in the system and maybe lead to a belt shredding. Are you sure it's all spaced right? There is supposed to be a washer between the bracket and the block on the upper left side. And did you put in that other M8x100 full thread bolt and back that out to butt up against the bracket? That's a pretty important part. My ATI pulley spins pretty freely, but I dont know if it would matter that yours doesnt

July 3rd, 2009, 07:56 PM	#7
klep2024 Regular 03 Mustang GT Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 61 iTrader: 0 reviews	Alrite guys i fixed the lower stud problem..helicoiled it and reused the stud after cleaning it up..Looks like the guy i bought it fromn discovered the problem i did but decided to mickey mouse it instead of do it right. There was JB weld all over the stud when i literally unthreaded it 2 turns and then pulled the stud right out of the head. So we drilled, tapped, and permathreaded a helicoil and the stud back in the head. Fixed the flexing and the car seemed to run MUCH better and even sounded much better! So i took it out for a drive..babied it at first til it warmed up, then flogged it a couple times. Brought it home, popped the hood and found that the belt jumped two ribs towards the block on the a/c pully...bad tensioner? What do you guys think? The pulleys seem to be aligned perfectly but my buddy noticed that when i revved it up that the tensioner was moving back and forth quite a bit. The guy i bought it from said the tensioner hasnt been replaced since the procharger was bolted on 11000 miles ago...procharger calls for a new tensioner at 10-15,000 miles. I think its the tensioner..what do you guys think? __________________ P1SC Procharger @ 10psi w/ 3 Core Intercooler and too many other mods to list 386 rwhp 397 rwtq Military Crew AM2-USN Always looking for 03/04 cobra body parts

July 6th, 2009, 02:33 AM	#8
klep2024 Regular 03 Mustang GT Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 61 iTrader: 0 reviews	Update: Replaced the tensioner this afternoon and everything is good to go! Thanks for all your help guys! __________________ P1SC Procharger @ 10psi w/ 3 Core Intercooler and too many other mods to list 386 rwhp 397 rwtq Military Crew AM2-USN Always looking for 03/04 cobra body parts

July 6th, 2009, 10:13 AM	#9
BakerFX4 I Post Entirely Way Too Much Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 15,607 iTrader: 14 reviews	glad to hear it. __________________

July 6th, 2009, 03:28 PM	#10
~C~ ~C~, The Other White Meat! Y2K YellowJacket GT ~TBD~ Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: West side B-More Posts: 1,710 iTrader: 2 reviews	Nice man! I will keep an eye out for my tensioner as well. Didnt know that. Good lookin out! __________________ BLOWN Bumblebeast! 370 rwhp / 381 ft lbs ~Tuned by JJ at WMS "Like the blind man says......We shall see...."

July 7th, 2009, 05:19 PM	#11
BOOSTED96 Regular 1996 STEEDA Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Va Beach, Va Posts: 212 iTrader: 0 reviews	I didnt know that either with the tensioner...I think I will go get a new one this weekend since I have definitely driven the car more than 15,000 miles since the blower install __________________ Highly Intelligent Modular Young Gun! Get off my D1 SON!!

July 7th, 2009, 06:05 PM	#12
klep2024 Regular 03 Mustang GT Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 61 iTrader: 0 reviews	Cool hopefully i saved you guys the pain in the ass of changing a shredded belt. I'm pretty much a pro at it now haha..yah if you still have your procharger manual laying around it says it right after the head unit instructions. The tensioner was CAKE to change...one bolt. You dont even hafta take the belt off to do it, just take tension off first. The only prob i ran into was that the previous owner just decided to slap whatever bolt he had in there so i had to drill the bolt hole a little bigger in the brand new tensioner. You also hafta grind off a piece of the tensioner by the pulley to clear the procharger bracket. I've also heard that if you dont do this the belt will rub on it and eventually shred. __________________ P1SC Procharger @ 10psi w/ 3 Core Intercooler and too many other mods to list 386 rwhp 397 rwtq Military Crew AM2-USN Always looking for 03/04 cobra body parts

July 7th, 2009, 06:32 PM	#13
02sonicGT Regular 2002 Mustang GT Join Date: May 2008 Location: Bethlehem, PA Posts: 282 iTrader: 0 reviews	Reps to the newbie kep2024 for the good info on the tensioner! Being another sonic blue certainly helps __________________ 2002 Sonic Blue GT : Manual, FRPP 3.73's, Ram HDX Clutch, Pypes Violator Cat-Back, Pypes catted X-Pipe, Mach1 Chin, SCT Livewire, PLX SM-AFR as Analog input to LW

July 7th, 2009, 07:24 PM	#14
klep2024 Regular 03 Mustang GT Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 61 iTrader: 0 reviews	Haha thanks man im just glad i can help out. I wouldnt wish what happened to me over the past week or so (shredded 2 belts in 36 hours, found out my new toy was ghetto rigged) on anyone at all. To be honest sonic blue wasnt my first choice but im definitely glad i got this one. That color just pops whether its night or day. __________________ P1SC Procharger @ 10psi w/ 3 Core Intercooler and too many other mods to list 386 rwhp 397 rwtq Military Crew AM2-USN Always looking for 03/04 cobra body parts

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