[Babatund3]

haha alright thanks man. im assuming i should get rust resistant or high heat spray paint?

[ReverendDexter]

I'd spring for the rust-resistant, but there's no need for high-temp paint down there

[Babatund3]

alright ballin! im really excited haha... right after i get the mm subframe connectors im lowering it but i have no idea how low i want it yet haha

[ReverendDexter]

Depends on how much other work you want to do to it

[RTRBURN]

MM are real nice. Test fit them a couple of times. They are alot easier with the car up on a hoist instead of jack stands. MM instructions are pretty good also.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by RTRBURN MM are real nice. Test fit them a couple of times. They are alot easier with the car up on a hoist instead of jack stands. MM instructions are pretty good also.

Good point.

You NEED to have the chassis unstressed when you weld on the SFCs, or you'll just make the way the car is flexed permanent. When I had mine installed on the Cobra, I had to stop the guy a few times so that very thing didn't happen.

I *highly* suggest that you have the car on a lift, and preferably the type that keeps the weight of the vehicle on it's wheels. This will keep the chassis neutral during installation.

[Safi]

Originally Posted by RTRBURN MM are real nice. Test fit them a couple of times. They are alot easier with the car up on a hoist instead of jack stands. MM instructions are pretty good also.

Wait....The MM ones arn't weld on ones?

Or did he just get the ones that are bolt on?

[ReverendDexter]

MMs are weld on.

I don't think they'll sell you bolt on ones, as bolt-on SFCs are next to worthless (basically you bolt them on just to drive them to somewhere they can be welded).

[Babatund3]

yeah they all are weld on from what ive seen and ive been looking around for awhile..

[Babatund3]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter Depends on how much other work you want to do to it

I'm planning on redoing pretty much all of my suspension eventually... my list so far is...
Sub frame connectors-MM
Springs - not sure on brand but im thinkin 1.5"
Shocks - depending on what springs i get of course
Upper & Lower control arms

and thats all i have for now... i was looking at the stickied suspension guide to make my attack plan so i figure next after all this would be panhard bar/watts link torqe arm and k-member & a-arms

[ReverendDexter]

If you're gonna go for a torque arm, just realize that you need to put significantly stiffer springs in the rear. Basically, don't buy new springs, then do the panhard/torque arm, as you'll just end up buying another set of rears.

Not sure if you already have CC plates, but I'd recommend having them before lowering the car.

[Babatund3]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter If you're gonna go for a torque arm, just realize that you need to put significantly stiffer springs in the rear. Basically, don't buy new springs, then do the panhard/torque arm, as you'll just end up buying another set of rears. Not sure if you already have CC plates, but I'd recommend having them before lowering the car.

so do you think i should get cc plates and do a coilover set up?

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by Babatund3 so do you think i should get cc plates and do a coilover set up?

Depends on your intended use for the car, your goals within that use, and your budget.

[Babatund3]

well lets assume i decide to go with springs... ive been looking around online today and im liking either the H&R super sport, Eibach pro, or frpp c springs. i dont think i would need new shocks with the frpp springs but i dont think the drop is enough, so are there any suggestions for shocks to match either the H&R or Eibach springs? Ive read around that its really important that if you are changing the spring rates and lowering the car then you should be getting new shocks... now that i think about it a little more is the spring rate even changing enough? would i be fine just getting tokico hp's (i also read these are good stock replacements)

[01brknGT]

if your in an area like mine, i would suggest steeda sport springs. I have a pretty decent drop in the front like 3/4 of an inch lelft up front and an inch left out back, Thats with no iso's. Or i would say eibach pro kit if you want more of a drop. IMPO i think H&R springs are too low and you will be driving very cautious every bump you go over.

[Babatund3]

well i live in the suburbs of minneapolis but i do a lot of driving in anything from country roads to the wonderful pot holes and bumps in the city. do you think the steedas would really be better than the frpp c springs?

[Scott2001GT]

you could maybe get them powder coated and leave the places that need to be welded the bare metal and do some spray paint on the weld later. It would look clean

[Jazzer The Cat]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter You mean grammar?

Hey now... I never said anything about the speling

Jazzer