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#1 |
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MM Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Up der in canada eh
Posts: 3,527
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lower control arm help
so im trying to take my rear lower control arms off, i tried a billion different ways to get the axle mount bolt out and it just isnt coming out, ive supported the axle and then the lower control arm with a jack, ive let both of them all the way down, how the fuck do you remove this bolt? its stuck
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2000 Mustang GT, 417hp/421tq, P1SC @ 6 psi(?), Custom grind cams, Steeda Triax shifter, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. 18x9/10 Flat Black FR500's, Mach C-pillars, bullitt side scoops/skirts.
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#2 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4
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Did you try using a punch to drve bolt out?
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#3 |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 7,966
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dead blow or ball penis hammer. Hit it until its near flush and on the last bit you can hit it knock the piss outta it. If its still stuck after that hit the head as best you can at an angle and itll slowly work its way the rest of the way out. While supporting it with a jack that is.
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#4 | |
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Moderator
2012 300a gt auto
12.10@116
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: creighton pa
Posts: 7,697
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..............![]() .. .........that's some funny shit.
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MM BRACKET RACING CREW CO-FOUNDER BAMA Performance Drag Team Founder 2012 300a GT auto
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#5 |
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Priest of the Car Gods
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I just did LCAs not too long ago.
I grabbed a big screwdriver and pried the at the bolthead. Worked like a charm. Just make sure the LCA is supported if you haven't taken the spring out already.
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#6 |
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MM Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2006
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the spring wont come out when its fully depressed. ive tried using a chizel thing and a hammer, and it just stays there, tried prying it out, and it wont move. it just stays there. ive gotten it past the first hole but its stuck in the middle now, and whether i jack it up, depress it, nothing it just wont come out.
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2000 Mustang GT, 417hp/421tq, P1SC @ 6 psi(?), Custom grind cams, Steeda Triax shifter, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. 18x9/10 Flat Black FR500's, Mach C-pillars, bullitt side scoops/skirts.
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#7 |
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Banned
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Put some ass into it and pound it on the head at at angle itll start moving sooner or later, but be careful bc if its in too much of a bind youll get the threads a bit outta wack and itll be hard to straighten them out w/o an impact. On the other hand try putting a screwdriver or punch against the end of the bolt and hit that.
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#8 | |
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Priest of the Car Gods
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O o /¯/______________________ |BLAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH!!! \_\ |
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#9 |
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MM Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2006
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no i try unbolting it and it just twists on that rubber bushing, it doesnt move, and i even took my rotors and brake dust cover off and tried pounding it straight on and it still isnt moving.. im starting to get really fucking pissed off over something so simple.
i really want to avoid using a torch but maybe ill have to
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2000 Mustang GT, 417hp/421tq, P1SC @ 6 psi(?), Custom grind cams, Steeda Triax shifter, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. 18x9/10 Flat Black FR500's, Mach C-pillars, bullitt side scoops/skirts.
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#10 |
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Banned
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try some lube, also work it back and forth, knock it as far as you can one way, then back the other way, then back the way you started n so forth. Given that its rusted or has a bunch of junk up in there.
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#11 |
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MM Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2006
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i tried spraying some lube in there. i tried pounding it back into the original spot and it wont even go through anymore.. i dont know what to do.
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2000 Mustang GT, 417hp/421tq, P1SC @ 6 psi(?), Custom grind cams, Steeda Triax shifter, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. 18x9/10 Flat Black FR500's, Mach C-pillars, bullitt side scoops/skirts.
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#12 |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2008
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Cheap craftsman screwdriver or punch onto the "threaded end" and keep on wackin at it using a big hammer such as a decent size dead blow or 3lb sledge. If its that seized up a regular ole hammer is gonna take you a ton of work to get somewhere with more than likely.
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#13 |
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MM Fanatic
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wow my mind must be in the gutter cuz that sounded really dirty! lmao
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#14 |
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MM Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2006
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id probably laugh if i wasnt so pissed off right now
its shit like this that makes me not even want to mod this fucking hunk of shit.
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2000 Mustang GT, 417hp/421tq, P1SC @ 6 psi(?), Custom grind cams, Steeda Triax shifter, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. 18x9/10 Flat Black FR500's, Mach C-pillars, bullitt side scoops/skirts.
Last edited by energiesource; July 19th, 2009 at 10:57 PM. |
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#15 |
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Abyssinian of AX
'02 Saleen
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^ Be careful talking like that as your Carma will come back and run over your dogma
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#16 |
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Banned
1992 Lx
11.39@119.24
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support that end of the diff with a jack, shove a screwdriver in the hole and hit it with a hammer, it shouldnt be in there very hard
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[QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE] |
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#17 | |
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Regular
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#18 |
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MM Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2006
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ive tried a torch now too and it doesnt even budge. wtf is wrong with this pos
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2000 Mustang GT, 417hp/421tq, P1SC @ 6 psi(?), Custom grind cams, Steeda Triax shifter, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. 18x9/10 Flat Black FR500's, Mach C-pillars, bullitt side scoops/skirts.
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#19 |
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Priest of the Car Gods
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Yeah, something is very wrong here.
It's a bolt, going through the control arm sleeve, and two peices of metal on either side of that sleeve. The only way for that bolt to become jammed is a lack of alignment of the holes and the sleeve. That means that if you regain alignment, the bolt will come out. Have you had anyone else there take a look at it? Sometimes a fresh pair of eyes is all it takes.
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O o /¯/______________________ |BLAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH!!! \_\ |
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#20 |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2008
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...what kinda hammer u using? Im not saying im 100% sure its your problem but I donno how many cars ive done control arms on at work be it front or rear upper or lower and ran into the similar problem for about a minute due to the fact that a simple 12oz ball penis hammer or a simple nail hammer for that matter doesnt have enough force to do the job.
Last edited by ajm; July 21st, 2009 at 07:01 PM. |
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