clutchfork is tight against pressure fingers... need help!

ndfrspd · July 28th, 2009, 01:20 PM

when i press in the clutch pedal, i cant get into gear and i went to go look under the car with that shield off and i see the fork is really tight against the fingers and its super hard to get the clutch cable off the fork because of the tension.... is that bad? how do i adjust the cable so i can get it into gear?

SWEET2KSTANG · July 28th, 2009, 01:56 PM

yes thats a bad thing. new intall? the TOB may be installed wrong.

ndfrspd · July 28th, 2009, 02:08 PM

yes it is a new install. but my throwout bearing is good. maybe it wasnt aligned right? i swore that it felt good when i installed it. my buddy just hopped in the car and moved the clutch pedal in and out while i was under it and the clutch fork moves freely on the shaft its just that the cable is really tight and the clutch fork doesnt fully release from the fingers, it rides them. can i just try and slide the fork up and down or do i have to drop the whole trans to fuck with it?

goren813 · July 28th, 2009, 02:15 PM

If you can't get the cable off you prolly have to pull the trans, which blows, but gotta do what you gotta do. If everything was/is installed right you may just need a new cable. I hear the adjustable cables are no good cuz they tend to break, but I have one with the Steeda Clutch Adjuster Kit and I like it, it allows you to find that sweet spot in the pedal that you want, and you can adjust it at the clutch fork as well as at the firewall.

ndfrspd · July 28th, 2009, 02:18 PM

dropping the trans SUCKS, but maybe ill wiggle the clutchfork around and see if i can get it into place. so if im correct, the clutch fork should have like 1/4" of space from the fingers?

03_StangGuy · July 28th, 2009, 04:00 PM

Did you change the quadrant? Some have two lacations depending on what cable you use.

93hatch · July 28th, 2009, 04:29 PM

my guess is you have the routing of the clutch cable off, theres a very specific way it has to go through the k member

goren813 · July 28th, 2009, 04:35 PM

Originally Posted by ndfrspd

dropping the trans SUCKS, but maybe ill wiggle the clutchfork around and see if i can get it into place. so if im correct, the clutch fork should have like 1/4" of space from the fingers?

Correct, but don't go crazy on getting that perfect. You do not want the fork to touch the fingers while disengaged, but don't want it to be loose floating around inside of the bell housing.

Originally Posted by 03_StangGuy

Did you change the quadrant? Some have two lacations depending on what cable you use.

+1, if you replaced the quadrant check into that.

Originally Posted by 93hatch

my guess is you have the routing of the clutch cable off, theres a very specific way it has to go through the k member

Also a good point. You'll want to follow the same path as the cable was stock.

C MY 4D · July 28th, 2009, 04:39 PM

Originally Posted by ndfrspd

dropping the trans SUCKS, but maybe ill wiggle the clutchfork around and see if i can get it into place. so if im correct, the clutch fork should have like 1/4" of space from the fingers?

No you should have just a bit of play in the pedal. Make sure the pressure plate bolts are tight. Then check to see if you installed the clutch disc in the right direction.

zinc02GT · July 28th, 2009, 05:16 PM

Have you driven the car after the new install? If he's driven the car, I highly doubt the disk is backwards.

If it's really hard to press, I'm gonna say that the cable route is wrong in the K member. It's supposed to go (looking from up top) to the left of the master cylinder, and bend between the radiator and K member. From there you feed it through a little gap near the oil filter and it should find home pretty easily. I'll look under my car the next time I can and get it for you, but it's been raining all day here.

The throwout bearing should LIGHTLY rest against the clutch fingers. There should also be about 1-1.5 inches of freeplay in the clutch. It should ALSO have that heavy top, easy bottom feeling. Like at about half way the clutch 'gives' on the pressing down of the pedal, but don't use that as a means of measurement. Use the cable and stress against the clutch/fork as your measurement.

You should have about 1/8 inch of play in the cable at the fork. Like, with the fork cover off, you can take the cable in your index finger and thumb and wobble it about 1/8th inch up and down.

ndfrspd · July 28th, 2009, 06:27 PM

so heres what happened. the clutch cable got pulled to one side, the firewall side and i dont know how, but something caught inside the cable and it got jammed up and froze. i took it to a shop and the guy had to yank on the cable with a vice. and he said maybe try pb blaster in the cable to free it up, but its so taught even with the pb, idk what to do. id rather not buy a new cable but what do you think?

C MY 4D · July 28th, 2009, 07:11 PM

You need a new cable.

C MY 4D · July 28th, 2009, 07:14 PM

Originally Posted by zinc02GT

Have you driven the car after the new install? If he's driven the car, I highly doubt the disk is backwards.

If it's really hard to press, I'm gonna say that the cable route is wrong in the K member. It's supposed to go (looking from up top) to the left of the master cylinder, and bend between the radiator and K member. From there you feed it through a little gap near the oil filter and it should find home pretty easily. I'll look under my car the next time I can and get it for you, but it's been raining all day here.

The throwout bearing should LIGHTLY rest against the clutch fingers. There should also be about 1-1.5 inches of freeplay in the clutch. It should ALSO have that heavy top, easy bottom feeling. Like at about half way the clutch 'gives' on the pressing down of the pedal, but don't use that as a means of measurement. Use the cable and stress against the clutch/fork as your measurement.

You should have about 1/8 inch of play in the cable at the fork. Like, with the fork cover off, you can take the cable in your index finger and thumb and wobble it about 1/8th inch up and down.

The way I understood the first post I thought he was getting pedal travel it just wasn't releasing.

SWEET2KSTANG · July 28th, 2009, 08:04 PM

^ +1

the TOB can be installed incorrectly and will cause the same issue. thats why i thought of that first.

zinc02GT · July 28th, 2009, 10:27 PM

Sorry.

ndfrspd · July 29th, 2009, 01:36 AM

yeah my first post was correct but when attempting to fix it the cable froze, i just got my hands on a new oem cable from this guy off craigslist im gonna put it in tomorrow. also i told the guy what happened to my other cable and the first thing he said was "do you have longtubes?" YES. of course, the clutch cable was too close to the tubes and melted the inside causing the cable to freeze up. DUH. i feel like a dummy.

jivepepper · July 29th, 2009, 02:46 AM

Take the cable of and push straight in on the end of the clutch fork. Mine likes to pop off the pivot ball and it feels just like you described. If so it should pop on a little more.

Edit just read your last post.

ndfrspd · July 29th, 2009, 11:59 AM

i put a new cable in this morning and its routed correctly and one end is connected to the pedal at default setting and the other end of the cable wont even reach the clutch fork... this only leads me to believe something in the trans was installed wrong or the pedal was fucked with. heres pictures to confirm. more pictures are here: clutchfork pictures by cttblakeman - Photobucket

93hatch · July 29th, 2009, 12:11 PM

that looks right to me, theres supposed to be tension on the clutch fork, pry it forward with a prybar then throw the cable in

ndfrspd · July 29th, 2009, 12:22 PM

are u serious? thats what i had to do to get the cable off, pry it forward and unhook it. everyone is saying that theres supposed to be 1/8" of space inbetween the bearing and fingers...

July 28th, 2009, 01:20 PM	#1
ndfrspd Enthusiast 1998 Mustang GT 1:34.43@13.86 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Detroit Posts: 679 iTrader: 0 reviews	clutchfork is tight against pressure fingers... need help! when i press in the clutch pedal, i cant get into gear and i went to go look under the car with that shield off and i see the fork is really tight against the fingers and its super hard to get the clutch cable off the fork because of the tension.... is that bad? how do i adjust the cable so i can get it into gear? __________________ "The only way to learn about a car truly is to break something and fix it yourself..."

July 28th, 2009, 01:56 PM	#2
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,540 iTrader: 8 reviews	yes thats a bad thing. new intall? the TOB may be installed wrong. __________________ project warhorse under construction wagon burner under construction as well (04 lightning) being built by MP2 Performance

July 28th, 2009, 02:08 PM	#3
ndfrspd Enthusiast 1998 Mustang GT 1:34.43@13.86 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Detroit Posts: 679 iTrader: 0 reviews	yes it is a new install. but my throwout bearing is good. maybe it wasnt aligned right? i swore that it felt good when i installed it. my buddy just hopped in the car and moved the clutch pedal in and out while i was under it and the clutch fork moves freely on the shaft its just that the cable is really tight and the clutch fork doesnt fully release from the fingers, it rides them. can i just try and slide the fork up and down or do i have to drop the whole trans to fuck with it? __________________ "The only way to learn about a car truly is to break something and fix it yourself..." Last edited by ndfrspd; July 28th, 2009 at 02:11 PM.

July 28th, 2009, 02:15 PM	#4
goren813 MM's Official Lucifer '00 3.8L & '05 4.6L Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Odessa, FL Posts: 3,619 iTrader: 0 reviews	If you can't get the cable off you prolly have to pull the trans, which blows, but gotta do what you gotta do. If everything was/is installed right you may just need a new cable. I hear the adjustable cables are no good cuz they tend to break, but I have one with the Steeda Clutch Adjuster Kit and I like it, it allows you to find that sweet spot in the pedal that you want, and you can adjust it at the clutch fork as well as at the firewall. __________________ "Fast she goes...in the city of Overdose"

July 28th, 2009, 02:18 PM	#5
ndfrspd Enthusiast 1998 Mustang GT 1:34.43@13.86 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Detroit Posts: 679 iTrader: 0 reviews	dropping the trans SUCKS, but maybe ill wiggle the clutchfork around and see if i can get it into place. so if im correct, the clutch fork should have like 1/4" of space from the fingers? __________________ "The only way to learn about a car truly is to break something and fix it yourself..."

July 28th, 2009, 04:00 PM	#6
03_StangGuy I Poop Entirely Way Too Much Blown 03 GT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Long Island NY Posts: 6,917 iTrader: 0 reviews	Did you change the quadrant? Some have two lacations depending on what cable you use. __________________

July 28th, 2009, 04:29 PM	#7
93hatch Banned 1992 Lx 11.39@119.24 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Az Posts: 11,644 iTrader: 0 reviews	my guess is you have the routing of the clutch cable off, theres a very specific way it has to go through the k member __________________ [QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]

July 28th, 2009, 05:16 PM	#10
zinc02GT HUGE RED HEADED DUDE W/FIVE-OH 2011 Mustang GT 12.1 @ 116 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Alabama Posts: 5,846 iTrader: 1 reviews	Have you driven the car after the new install? If he's driven the car, I highly doubt the disk is backwards. If it's really hard to press, I'm gonna say that the cable route is wrong in the K member. It's supposed to go (looking from up top) to the left of the master cylinder, and bend between the radiator and K member. From there you feed it through a little gap near the oil filter and it should find home pretty easily. I'll look under my car the next time I can and get it for you, but it's been raining all day here. The throwout bearing should LIGHTLY rest against the clutch fingers. There should also be about 1-1.5 inches of freeplay in the clutch. It should ALSO have that heavy top, easy bottom feeling. Like at about half way the clutch 'gives' on the pressing down of the pedal, but don't use that as a means of measurement. Use the cable and stress against the clutch/fork as your measurement. You should have about 1/8 inch of play in the cable at the fork. Like, with the fork cover off, you can take the cable in your index finger and thumb and wobble it about 1/8th inch up and down. __________________ Mods in garage. Built suspension and gears since posted times.

July 28th, 2009, 06:27 PM	#11
ndfrspd Enthusiast 1998 Mustang GT 1:34.43@13.86 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Detroit Posts: 679 iTrader: 0 reviews	so heres what happened. the clutch cable got pulled to one side, the firewall side and i dont know how, but something caught inside the cable and it got jammed up and froze. i took it to a shop and the guy had to yank on the cable with a vice. and he said maybe try pb blaster in the cable to free it up, but its so taught even with the pb, idk what to do. id rather not buy a new cable but what do you think? __________________ "The only way to learn about a car truly is to break something and fix it yourself..."

July 28th, 2009, 07:11 PM	#12
C MY 4D Billy Weston 2003 Cobra 11.14@124.36 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Hampton, VA Posts: 4,806 iTrader: 8 reviews	You need a new cable. __________________ TT Build in progress....... Need work done to your car for a great price in Hampton Roads? Shoot me a PM.

July 28th, 2009, 08:04 PM	#14
SWEET2KSTANG mm's nitrous mod 2000 mustang gt 11.79@115.83 (old set up) Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 12,540 iTrader: 8 reviews	^ +1 the TOB can be installed incorrectly and will cause the same issue. thats why i thought of that first. __________________ project warhorse under construction wagon burner under construction as well (04 lightning) being built by MP2 Performance

July 28th, 2009, 10:27 PM	#15
zinc02GT HUGE RED HEADED DUDE W/FIVE-OH 2011 Mustang GT 12.1 @ 116 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Alabama Posts: 5,846 iTrader: 1 reviews	Sorry. __________________ Mods in garage. Built suspension and gears since posted times.

July 29th, 2009, 01:36 AM	#16
ndfrspd Enthusiast 1998 Mustang GT 1:34.43@13.86 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Detroit Posts: 679 iTrader: 0 reviews	yeah my first post was correct but when attempting to fix it the cable froze, i just got my hands on a new oem cable from this guy off craigslist im gonna put it in tomorrow. also i told the guy what happened to my other cable and the first thing he said was "do you have longtubes?" YES. of course, the clutch cable was too close to the tubes and melted the inside causing the cable to freeze up. DUH. i feel like a dummy. __________________ "The only way to learn about a car truly is to break something and fix it yourself..."

July 29th, 2009, 02:46 AM	#17
jivepepper I Post Entirely Way Too Much Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Under a sombrero Posts: 5,025 iTrader: 1 reviews	Take the cable of and push straight in on the end of the clutch fork. Mine likes to pop off the pivot ball and it feels just like you described. If so it should pop on a little more. Edit just read your last post. __________________ 665/541 WHP/WTQ 4.6L SOHC 2V ON 93 OCTANE PUMP GAS. NO METH INJ., NO E85, NO RACE GAS, N2O BABY BOTTLES! TRAP=POWER: 11.01 @135, IN SUMMER HEAT, 1350' TRACK, 315/35/17 DR'S Last edited by jivepepper; July 29th, 2009 at 02:49 AM.

July 29th, 2009, 11:59 AM	#18
ndfrspd Enthusiast 1998 Mustang GT 1:34.43@13.86 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Detroit Posts: 679 iTrader: 0 reviews	i put a new cable in this morning and its routed correctly and one end is connected to the pedal at default setting and the other end of the cable wont even reach the clutch fork... this only leads me to believe something in the trans was installed wrong or the pedal was fucked with. heres pictures to confirm. more pictures are here: clutchfork pictures by cttblakeman - Photobucket __________________ "The only way to learn about a car truly is to break something and fix it yourself..."

July 29th, 2009, 12:11 PM	#19
93hatch Banned 1992 Lx 11.39@119.24 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Az Posts: 11,644 iTrader: 0 reviews	that looks right to me, theres supposed to be tension on the clutch fork, pry it forward with a prybar then throw the cable in __________________ [QUOTE=93mustank;2577445]We speed tested my right arm for quickness in shifts... So he could design the cam for proper shift recovery.[/QUOTE]

July 29th, 2009, 12:22 PM	#20
ndfrspd Enthusiast 1998 Mustang GT 1:34.43@13.86 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Detroit Posts: 679 iTrader: 0 reviews	are u serious? thats what i had to do to get the cable off, pry it forward and unhook it. everyone is saying that theres supposed to be 1/8" of space inbetween the bearing and fingers... __________________ "The only way to learn about a car truly is to break something and fix it yourself..."

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