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Old August 28th, 2009, 02:00 AM   #61
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on the kb site it says that the 2.2l supercharger will need a larger hood for clearence?
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Old August 28th, 2009, 02:08 AM   #62
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youll need more money but mph has made more power than that with the 2.2, a p1sc, vortech sq, and all but youll need a new block rotating assembly blower cams at a minimum port the heads and rebuild the transmission, youll most deffinately need a new rear end. go to modularpowerhouse.com go check out or ask about some of there 2v's,2 valve street car runs 9.99@ 140mph - MPH Forums

try that link thats one of them and not the fastest!
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Old August 28th, 2009, 02:55 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by mikejones16 View Post
on the kb site it says that the 2.2l supercharger will need a larger hood for clearence?
the 2.2l is no longer made,been replaced by the 2.6l(the 1.7 was replaced by the 2.1l). it will not fit under a stock gt hood,not sure of the termi hood
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Old August 28th, 2009, 06:00 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by Exodus View Post
This is very true, you can use as much as 60 hp just keeping that compressor spinning. With a well tuned turbo set up, you can make HUGE hp. I have a freind of mine who runs open road races with his tube chassis viper. He is running 2, 35mm turbos, on a small black chevy. He's dropping 1250 hp to the ground with 22lbs of boost. This year he made 224 mph in the mile shoot out. Thats dead stop to as fast as you can go in a mile. He thought he could have made 230, but had a rear spoiler issue and was having rear wheel spin at 190 mph.
*jealous*
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Old August 28th, 2009, 08:51 PM   #65
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'99-'04 Mustang 4.6 2V 2.6L Competition Supercharger

at the bottem it says

""SPECIAL TUNING NOTE: The 2.6L kit is a "Tuner Kit." It requires custom tuning on a Dynojet and a competent experienced tuner. It is a kick ass 500-750HP+ kit. ""
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Old August 29th, 2009, 11:27 PM   #66
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I've been looking on Jegs all night. When you say i'll need a new rear end do you mean 31 spline axles? or upgrade to a 9" rear end? i found the tranny i'll put in. since im replacing most of this car i found a mustang with no drivetrain.
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Old August 29th, 2009, 11:31 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by mikejones16 View Post
I've been looking on Jegs all night. When you say i'll need a new rear end do you mean 31 spline axles? or upgrade to a 9" rear end? i found the tranny i'll put in. since im replacing most of this car i found a mustang with no drivetrain.
a throughly built 8.8 will support much more than your need's, 9" would be nice ,but not needed.
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Old August 30th, 2009, 03:11 AM   #68
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what would you say is a througholy built 8.8?
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Old August 30th, 2009, 04:31 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by mikejones16 View Post
what would you say is a througholy built 8.8?
team Z modified housing, 31 spline axle's & diff of your choice, rear cover with brace, & CHE housing girdle. should about do it.
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Old August 30th, 2009, 06:38 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Exodus View Post
This is very true, you can use as much as 60 hp just keeping that compressor spinning.
The average efficiency of a centrifuge Sc is 72-75%. So they lose 25-28% at best. I say depending on the set up sometimes a lot more the 60 hp.
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Old August 30th, 2009, 08:17 PM   #71
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Sorry, I should have been more definitive about the paracitic lose. Ya, you could very well loose more than just 60hp.
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Old September 2nd, 2009, 08:07 PM   #72
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How hard is it to convert a auto to a manual?
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Old September 2nd, 2009, 09:43 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by mikejones16 View Post
How hard is it to convert a auto to a manual?
it would be one of the worst thing's you could do to a very high horsepower car. leave the auto in there, you'll be sooooooooooo much happier. to answer your question though, the swap it's self is pretty straight forward, if you do end up with the 700 hp you were talking about, the parts will be rather expensive.
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Old September 2nd, 2009, 09:50 PM   #74
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A few bolts here, a couple holes there, not to hard. If you got a BFG, even easier. lol

Seriously, you need everything a manual car has as far as the trans goes: clutch pedal assembly, being the biggest pain to put in. They made the cars pretty much modular in design, as far as the chassis goes from manual to auto. So if you get all the parts, its the tedious process of putting them in where they go.
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Old September 2nd, 2009, 09:55 PM   #75
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I kind of agree and disagree with what casper said, it all depends on what you are planning for the car. If its a street brute with the occasional road course, then manual all the way, they are more fun, and they are almost a must in a road course. If its a straight line shooter, then auto all the way, your times wont deviate because of missed or short shifts.
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Old September 2nd, 2009, 10:01 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Exodus View Post
I kind of agree and disagree with what casper said, it all depends on what you are planning for the car. If its a street brute with the occasional road course, then manual all the way, they are more fun, and they are almost a must in a road course. If its a straight line shooter, then auto all the way, your times wont deviate because of missed or short shifts.
since it will be impossible to ever get the most out of a car with that much h/p on the street, or have the susp. on a street driven car to use the power on a road course, kinda only makes sence for a drag oriented car, IMO.
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Old September 3rd, 2009, 12:02 AM   #77
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so you guys are saying if i convery a auto to a manual that it won't be as good? as if i just bought a manual?
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Old September 6th, 2009, 11:14 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by mikejones16 View Post
so you guys are saying if i convery a auto to a manual that it won't be as good? as if i just bought a manual?
I don't know what the other guy's are telling you. what I'm telling you is a 700hp car with a 5 spd is a BAD IDEA. buy an auto car to start with & leave it in there.
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Old September 6th, 2009, 11:19 PM   #79
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yeah numbers that high would want an auto to be as fast as you can be.
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