[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by dcook_14 So if you slammed the coilover to be as low as it could go, would you risk bottoming out the strut?

That really depends on how much adjustability you have in your coilover, the length of your spring, and the strut you're using. But, yes, you're definitely losing compression travel if you lower the corner as much as possible.

Originally Posted by dcook_14 This is on the rear though, I didn't think there was camber/caster/toe with the rear suspension. I'd def. get MMR CC plates for the front.

Oh, I didn't realize we were talking about the rear. You're correct about the lack of alignment settings so long as we're talking about a straight axle rear end; if you have IRS, you have camber and toe adjustability.

[dcook_14]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter Oh, I didn't realize we were talking about the rear. You're correct about the lack of alignment settings so long as we're talking about a straight axle rear end; if you have IRS, you have camber and toe adjustability.

Yeah, sorry forgot to specify. So then are there any ill effects of lowering the rear of a stright axle rear end car for street driving, and then raising it to whatever setting for drag racing other than maybe not being able to find the "sweet spot" again?

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by dcook_14 Yeah, sorry forgot to specify. So then are there any ill effects of lowering the rear of a stright axle rear end car for street driving, and then raising it to whatever setting for drag racing other than maybe not being able to find the "sweet spot" again?

The only effect I know that adjusting ride height for the rear is that you'll change your driveshaft->pinion angle.

However, I don't know why you'd *raise* the rear suspension for drag racing. By keeping the rear low, you're keeping the static weight distibution biased towards the rear, which means more weight on the rear tires. More weight = more grip. The only time I could see you wanting to raise it would be if you're hitting the bump stops on a hard launch and that's causing you to go lose traction.

I guess you might also raise it if you don't have any other way of adjusting the driveshaft->pinion angle, but I honestly don't understand it's relation to launch grip, just that it's important.

[dcook_14]

I don't know a great deal about suspension, and all I've heard is that lowering springs hurt your launches. Since drag springs don't lower your car at all, I just kinda though that a higher rear end would be better for drag racing.

That makes sense though to leave the back end low for launches, since you generally want the back end to squat and dig. Rev Dexter you are a great help, repped!!

[F8L GT]

Lowering springs hurt your lauches because they are stiff, you take car of that with coil overs because you choose a certain spring rate.

[dcook_14]

Yeah F8L that makes sense too.

Why do drag springs not lower your back end then?

[F8L GT]

my guess is because of the position of the spring (between the control arm and body) more than likely it has to do with the geometry, the control arms in relation to the springs and pivot points. not 100% sure. maybe rev knows

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by F8L GT my guess is because of the position of the spring (between the control arm and body) more than likely it has to do with the geometry, the control arms in relation to the springs and pivot points. not 100% sure. maybe rev knows

I'm honestly not sure why they wouldn't lower the back at all.

I can only assume that it has to do with what you've said, or allowing for enough compression in the rear suspension as to not hit the bumpstops, while staying as low of a spring rate as possible (softer springs == more grip).

There may not be a physics based reason at all, it may just be "how it's always been done", or that people don't like seeing a negative rake and won't buy the springs for the aesthetic reasons.

[mounder27]

ok, seeing what has been written here, i have a suspension set that cuts 1.6's maybe 1.5's as predicted with my new anti roll bar, first off i just swapped back to the stock springs and cut them to get the center of gravity between the nose and the rear as a close as possible, alright as far as the the lca's and uca's go with any double adjuble set up, i preferre UPR's stuff, good shit plus its less exspensive, now back to what i was getting at the reason for cutting the stockers is to get help with the wait transfer, the lowering springs are ineffeicent because your nose will dive and unload the tires every time you shift gears, there for slowing you down, coil overs to me are the best rout for the front mainly because you can adjust them base on the launches or just for ride height, basicly you want to ass end to be stiff as possible and the front to be loose so you can transfer the weight....

[JayC]

Originally Posted by mounder27 ok, seeing what has been written here, i have a suspension set that cuts 1.6's maybe 1.5's as predicted with my new anti roll bar, first off i just swapped back to the stock springs and cut them to get the center of gravity between the nose and the rear as a close as possible, alright as far as the the lca's and uca's go with any double adjuble set up, i preferre UPR's stuff, good shit plus its less exspensive, now back to what i was getting at the reason for cutting the stockers is to get help with the wait transfer, the lowering springs are ineffeicent because your nose will dive and unload the tires every time you shift gears, there for slowing you down, coil overs to me are the best rout for the front mainly because you can adjust them base on the launches or just for ride height, basicly you want to ass end to be stiff as possible and the front to be loose so you can transfer the weight....

In your video the nose drives on every shift. You need to shift faster

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by mounder27 basicly you want to ass end to be stiff as possible and the front to be loose so you can transfer the weight....

What you've said here doesn't make sense to me.

The front being loose in such a manner as to transfer weight to the rear is looseness in rebound, not looseness in compression. If you're having an issue with nosediving, that tells me that the compression is too soft up front, allowing the nose to come down quickly. I can understand not wanting short springs, but wouldn't stiffer springs keep the nose from coming down on you? Isn't this the point of 90/10 struts, that they have really soft rebound, but really stiff compression, so they help keep the nose of the car up?

For the rear, keeping it really stiff is going to hurt weight from being transferred back. I mean, obviously you want it stiff enough to properly support all the transferred weight, but I would think it's a case of keeping it as soft as practicable, as to make that rearward weight transfer as easy as possible.

But, as I don't drag race, this is all theory and no practice. I'm just trying to understand the logic.

[dcook_14]

I'm with you rev. I've always heard that the best setup is a soft front and a semi-soft back. A stiff rear suspension would kill weight transfer and you wouldn't squat and dig.

[F8L GT]

You don't want the rear to drop but plant the tires on the track, so a stiffer spring is preferred. Soft springs let the rear of the car drop using energy that could be propelling the car forward.

[JoshC!]

michael youve got the adjustable rear shocks right? strange shocks if im not mistaken. what setting do you have them on at the track?

[F8L GT]

right now they are set at 4, but i didnt get enough track time to get them fully dialed in

[JoshC!]

is that more loose or stiff? im guessing loose.

[wishIhada5.0]

whats the general consensus on control arms? brand? type? next winter I plan to build the rear end/suspension

[F8L GT]

Originally Posted by 00vert is that more loose or stiff? im guessing loose.

its a tad more loose. 5 would be 50/50 im about 60/40

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by wishIhada5.0 whats the general consensus on control arms? brand? type? next winter I plan to build the rear end/suspension

If you're sticking with the 4-link, BMR seems to be the way to go. (I like Maximum Motorsports' LCAs, but they're more expensive than what BMR sells and I'm not honestly sure that there's any difference in quality.) For UCAs, BMR sells (at least) 2 kinds, get the adjustable ones with the spherical joint.

If you're going to a torque arm, Maximum can sell you the whole kit (LCAs, TA, PHB), as can Griggs Racing. Griggs' stuff is stronger, but it's definitely more expensive, and I'm pretty sure it requires that you go to either side exhaust or dumps.

[wishIhada5.0]

what do you think od MM LCA's with the adjustable spring perch?