SC vs N/A

dragrace4fun · November 4th, 2009, 11:54 AM

My take on this is that it's dependant on your goals, wants, and needs. Some like having a motor they can run hard all day without worry and some like to have as much power as technology can afford them no matter what the cost. Some like to have streetable power, while some want the fastest thing in the racing circuit or on the dragstrip. You do what you can afford, what you want, and what your driving habits dictate. Personally, I don't want a thousand ponies under the hood...I'll get myself killed and it would scare the hell out of me, to be honest. I am looking at multi-purpose useage, so I need something that I can rely on for a DD, something that has ample power for entertainment at the dragstrip from time-to-time, and something that can take a road course for fun on rare occasion. Maybe I ask too much, but maybe I don't and an N/A motor seems to be the best idea for all three, as I can build it specific to the duty I want it to perform. This being said, I'm building the foundation of the car first...suspension, driveline, etc. Do what makes ya happy, and if you want to do something different, do it right and do it the best!

huggy bear · November 4th, 2009, 12:06 PM

Sweet thanks for the input. I want my car to stay as my DD but, I like the idea of one peice bolt on to get me over 400. I can keep that DD still with the KB2.1 so I will prolly sit on it some more.

ModMustang97GT · November 4th, 2009, 07:13 PM

Originally Posted by mustang_gtr_99

I am building my 3V to swap and going KB 2.6. The 2.1 on the stock 2V was great but I like the weight reduction of the 05+ block. Couple that with my tubular K member and the front end will be significantly lighter. Cant wait

How much lighter is the 05+ block. I didn't know that they were lighter.

mustang_gtr_99 · November 4th, 2009, 07:28 PM

99-04 GT block is an iron block. 2005+ 4.6's are aluminum and are the strongest produced aluminum 4.6 block. Dont quote me but I think the weight reduction was in the neighborhood of 60 lbs

Boostang · November 4th, 2009, 07:56 PM

Originally Posted by mustang_gtr_99

99-04 GT block is an iron block. 2005+ 4.6's are aluminum and are the strongest produced aluminum 4.6 block. Dont quote me but I think the weight reduction was in the neighborhood of 60 lbs

your half right..
ive seen plenty off 05+ blocks crack.. but ive never seen the teksid's crack so the teksid is the stongest block made for us..
but 60lbs is correct

mustang_gtr_99 · November 4th, 2009, 09:29 PM

You may have seen them crack, however, Ford released the statement that they are the strongest production aluminum 4.6. That topic has been over debated so lets not go there. Bottom line the block is a lot lighter than the iron one and will handle north of 800's. Couple the 60lb weight reduction from the block with my Tubular K member/arms and that will be in the neighborhood of 100 +/- off the front end

huggy bear · November 4th, 2009, 10:52 PM

thats also alot of horses too^ Well I don't have the knowlege or time to deal with going N/A and so the 2.1 I can put right in and be over 400 to the wheels and be happy but all the info is good. The motor is lighter but the overall weight of the 2005+ is more than my 01. on the 2010 though is lighter than my dads V6 so they did something right there.

mustang_gtr_99 · November 5th, 2009, 02:28 AM

thats why the 3V is going in my 99 gt. lighter engine in a lighter car with 3V power

takiller · November 5th, 2009, 02:52 AM

Originally Posted by mustang_gtr_99

thats why the 3V is going in my 99 gt. lighter engine in a lighter car with 3V power

yea man i was talking to someone the other day about my plans and what im saving for....and he told me the 3v are WAY batter and they are capable of making more power easier than a 2v??? does that mean it would be better to go N/A with a 3v vs a 2v? or what do you guys think?

mustang_gtr_99 · November 5th, 2009, 02:54 AM

yes but might as well go 5.4 for N/A for the TQ

takiller · November 5th, 2009, 03:20 AM

u mean 5.4 3v or the 5.4 swap that people do with 2v?
im personally going F/I but im just curious....knowledge is power

mustang_gtr_99 · November 5th, 2009, 10:19 AM

I am a FI guy as well however, if I were marching down the NA road I would go with a 5.4 with 4V heads. Basicly the more valves the more power potential.

Eagle2000GT · November 5th, 2009, 11:03 AM

Originally Posted by ModMustang97GT

A sprayed n/a car will be vastly cheaper and faster than a FI car. But if you are talking an always fun street car. The FI is better.

Nitrous is one the the three forms of forced induction.

LAWNDART02 · November 5th, 2009, 12:22 PM

When looking at the N/A setup, don't forget the cost of the entire exhaust system(parts&labor) + Up Top CAI, TB, Plennum, UDP's. Plus, while it's a good long term idea to strenghten the rear unit, you don't need the cost of gears up-front for F/I. Without gears, you may not be able to even drive that N/A beast around town.

November 4th, 2009, 11:54 AM	#21
dragrace4fun Regular 2006 Mustang GT Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Somewhere Nice, Florida Posts: 339 iTrader: 0 reviews	My take on this is that it's dependant on your goals, wants, and needs. Some like having a motor they can run hard all day without worry and some like to have as much power as technology can afford them no matter what the cost. Some like to have streetable power, while some want the fastest thing in the racing circuit or on the dragstrip. You do what you can afford, what you want, and what your driving habits dictate. Personally, I don't want a thousand ponies under the hood...I'll get myself killed and it would scare the hell out of me, to be honest. I am looking at multi-purpose useage, so I need something that I can rely on for a DD, something that has ample power for entertainment at the dragstrip from time-to-time, and something that can take a road course for fun on rare occasion. Maybe I ask too much, but maybe I don't and an N/A motor seems to be the best idea for all three, as I can build it specific to the duty I want it to perform. This being said, I'm building the foundation of the car first...suspension, driveline, etc. Do what makes ya happy, and if you want to do something different, do it right and do it the best! __________________ 2006 Mustang GT, Satin Silver Metallic, Dark Charcoal Interior Lotsa mods...lotsa fun! Aspiring to be clean, old-school muscular beauty and N/A powerful! Others: '67 Coupe '84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham Last edited by dragrace4fun; November 4th, 2009 at 11:57 AM.

November 4th, 2009, 12:06 PM	#22
huggy bear Enthusiast 2001 Mustang GT .23333333 minutes Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Inbetween a rock and a hard place Posts: 536 iTrader: 0 reviews	Sweet thanks for the input. I want my car to stay as my DD but, I like the idea of one peice bolt on to get me over 400. I can keep that DD still with the KB2.1 so I will prolly sit on it some more. __________________ 2001 Mustang GT: 10.5 bullit rims, straight pipes, 180 degree t-stat, rear upper control arms, power slot rotors, hawk pads. fml

November 4th, 2009, 07:28 PM	#24
mustang_gtr_99 Hardcore Enthusiast 1999 3V GT/2007 GT D/D corner carver Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Eugene, Oregon Posts: 2,730 iTrader: 2 reviews	99-04 GT block is an iron block. 2005+ 4.6's are aluminum and are the strongest produced aluminum 4.6 block. Dont quote me but I think the weight reduction was in the neighborhood of 60 lbs __________________ OS2 (SW) USN REAR SEAT DELETE FABRICATOR "RSD pics in garage" 99 3V GT/2007 GT DD

November 4th, 2009, 09:29 PM	#26
mustang_gtr_99 Hardcore Enthusiast 1999 3V GT/2007 GT D/D corner carver Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Eugene, Oregon Posts: 2,730 iTrader: 2 reviews	You may have seen them crack, however, Ford released the statement that they are the strongest production aluminum 4.6. That topic has been over debated so lets not go there. Bottom line the block is a lot lighter than the iron one and will handle north of 800's. Couple the 60lb weight reduction from the block with my Tubular K member/arms and that will be in the neighborhood of 100 +/- off the front end __________________ OS2 (SW) USN REAR SEAT DELETE FABRICATOR "RSD pics in garage" 99 3V GT/2007 GT DD Last edited by mustang_gtr_99; November 4th, 2009 at 09:32 PM.

November 4th, 2009, 10:52 PM	#27
huggy bear Enthusiast 2001 Mustang GT .23333333 minutes Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Inbetween a rock and a hard place Posts: 536 iTrader: 0 reviews	thats also alot of horses too^ Well I don't have the knowlege or time to deal with going N/A and so the 2.1 I can put right in and be over 400 to the wheels and be happy but all the info is good. The motor is lighter but the overall weight of the 2005+ is more than my 01. on the 2010 though is lighter than my dads V6 so they did something right there. __________________ 2001 Mustang GT: 10.5 bullit rims, straight pipes, 180 degree t-stat, rear upper control arms, power slot rotors, hawk pads. fml

November 5th, 2009, 02:28 AM	#28
mustang_gtr_99 Hardcore Enthusiast 1999 3V GT/2007 GT D/D corner carver Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Eugene, Oregon Posts: 2,730 iTrader: 2 reviews	thats why the 3V is going in my 99 gt. lighter engine in a lighter car with 3V power __________________ OS2 (SW) USN REAR SEAT DELETE FABRICATOR "RSD pics in garage" 99 3V GT/2007 GT DD

November 5th, 2009, 02:54 AM	#30
mustang_gtr_99 Hardcore Enthusiast 1999 3V GT/2007 GT D/D corner carver Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Eugene, Oregon Posts: 2,730 iTrader: 2 reviews	yes but might as well go 5.4 for N/A for the TQ __________________ OS2 (SW) USN REAR SEAT DELETE FABRICATOR "RSD pics in garage" 99 3V GT/2007 GT DD

November 5th, 2009, 03:20 AM	#31
takiller Hardcore Enthusiast 2003 Mustang GT 9.0 in the 8th Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 1,194 iTrader: 1 reviews	u mean 5.4 3v or the 5.4 swap that people do with 2v? im personally going F/I but im just curious....knowledge is power __________________ C&L CAI, 75 TB, Plenum, O/R H Pipe, SLP LM1's (Dumped), Eibach SS, Tokico S/S, Moser 31 Splines, Cobra Diff, FRPP 410's, XCal 3 93 Tune

November 5th, 2009, 10:19 AM	#32
mustang_gtr_99 Hardcore Enthusiast 1999 3V GT/2007 GT D/D corner carver Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Eugene, Oregon Posts: 2,730 iTrader: 2 reviews	I am a FI guy as well however, if I were marching down the NA road I would go with a 5.4 with 4V heads. Basicly the more valves the more power potential. __________________ OS2 (SW) USN REAR SEAT DELETE FABRICATOR "RSD pics in garage" 99 3V GT/2007 GT DD

November 5th, 2009, 12:22 PM	#34
LAWNDART02 Regular 02 GT Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Detroit Posts: 333 iTrader: 0 reviews	When looking at the N/A setup, don't forget the cost of the entire exhaust system(parts&labor) + Up Top CAI, TB, Plennum, UDP's. Plus, while it's a good long term idea to strenghten the rear unit, you don't need the cost of gears up-front for F/I. Without gears, you may not be able to even drive that N/A beast around town. __________________ 02 2v 5sp- 9lb KB 2.1L I/C, 90MAF, 75mmStack TB, FLSFC's, Magnaflow C/B, NT555R's, MGW shift, Black Sabbath

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