Too good to be true??? 5.4 swap guys. - Page 2
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Old November 17th, 2009, 10:41 PM   #21
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Ok not sure if I am addressing everyone here but I will try...

330Cube, thanks for the info. Is my projected set-up what you have? lol. don't mean to bite off anyone's style!

D cook, I was drifting the fuck out of the car with the stock motor and suspension setup. I am going to buy suspension for road course driving. I'm not looking to compete in any pro drift competitions or anything. maybe a couple amateur runs but nothing too crazy mostly just parking lot fun. I plan on running different rear wheels/tires for my tail out antics (probably keep my crap chrome 20's with some hankooks or something). I already know that I will have a bigger problem keeping my ass from coming around on me than getting it sideways. With the mods that I had I didn't even need to feint at all to get it going.

Zexystang, no problem I have run into that problem before too on my 240. Went to pick up an RB25DETT swap and found out it was burning oil and had coolant in the pan.

This motor is 0 miles, I will be breaking it in so I'm super happy about that. and it's from a motor shop that my uncle used to do some balancing for.
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Old November 18th, 2009, 12:05 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by ForestGRN_Ghost View Post
do it.
ok... fine.

*blows conch shell*

Too good to be true??? 5.4 swap guys.-5.4-team.jpg
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5.4 4V coming soon
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Old November 18th, 2009, 12:12 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by norcalam2 View Post
330Cube, thanks for the info. Is my projected set-up what you have? lol. don't mean to bite off anyone's style!
No Prob

And nah...

In Short mine has the stock pulleys for now 8Psi. MAC Pro Chamber, Custom cat back with dynomax race bullets,4.10s,Tune, I have a long list of whats done to the car but not to much Engine wise. I have another Short block im playing with so it can handle more boost but for right now with the way it sits i might up the boost to 12 Psi but i can't go much more untill i have a bottom end together.

Here is a pic
http://img37.imagefra.me/img/img37/1...om_745447e.jpg

Originally Posted by quiksilver225 View Post
ok... fine.

*blows conch shell*

Attachment 25175
You Should make that your Avatar
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Old November 19th, 2009, 12:13 AM   #24
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Do you know any of the major differences between the lightning and the f150 blocks? I know the crank is better but how is everything else?
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Old November 19th, 2009, 12:14 AM   #25
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Oh and explain this conch shell!!!
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Old November 19th, 2009, 07:27 AM   #26
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It's as close to the shape of a vagina they are going to get near their lips.

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Old November 19th, 2009, 01:34 PM   #27
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Oh haha! I didn't click the attachment! Anyways though,
what is the mechanical redline of the 5.4 block?
Like if I were to build the heads to handle more what would be safe for the block?
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Old November 19th, 2009, 01:49 PM   #28
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Oh and btw I just figured out that I don't get notified of reps received so if you gaveme reps and I didn't return the favor I apologize. Is there any way to see a full rep history?
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Old November 19th, 2009, 02:16 PM   #29
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5.4 Team, Does anyone have a tubular K-member? will L/T's fit with the MM tube K?
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Old November 20th, 2009, 12:47 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by norcalam2 View Post
5.4 Team, Does anyone have a tubular K-member? will L/T's fit with the MM tube K?
LT headers have to be custom made to fit on a 5.4 2V swap. There is only one shop that has made the jig to make the headers and they cost around 1,000$ a pair. LT headers on a 5.4 4V is impossible.

Bottom line is that they just sre not worth it. The guy whose headers the custom jig was based off of had spent $10,000 on his headers between all the researching, trial and error, and hours to finally get it right. Just get yourself some nice shorties.
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5.4 4V coming soon
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Old November 20th, 2009, 07:14 PM   #31
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Well the lightning is a 2V and the reason the L/T's don't work is because of the K-member right? That's the impression I was under. So would tube K's allow L/T's?
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Old November 20th, 2009, 11:39 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by norcalam2 View Post
Well the lightning is a 2V and the reason the L/T's don't work is because of the K-member right? That's the impression I was under. So would tube K's allow L/T's?
wrong. The k-member doesnt help matters but the problem is mainly in the higher deck height. Since the headers bolt up higher on a 5.4 relative to the frame they will not drop down low enough to match up to your exhaust. if you do get them to bolt up they would be up against your floor boards. They also DO NOT clear the steering shaft. There is NO way to make a set of 4.6 LT's work on any 5.4 without chopping and spending an ass-load of money. Get the shorties. You WILL NOT benefit from a set of LT's anyways.

Definitely get the tubular K member though. It makes everything easier. some will even lower the engine down into the bay a bit more which will help out with clearance. Pick up k-member spacer too while you're at it.
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Old November 21st, 2009, 02:54 PM   #33
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Ok cool thanks for the info. I mainly wanted L/T's for sound as I really don't want any more than 450ftlb.

If I buy a lightning motor w/ no accessories will my 4.6 P/S, A/C, Alt. Etc. Bolt up?

Does anyone know what flywheel the lightning motor comes with? I know I need an 8 bolt for a t-56, is it a simple "pull flywheel install 8 bolt" kind of swap?
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Old November 21st, 2009, 03:21 PM   #34
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all the accessories will bolt right up. and yes with the flywheel, u just switch them.
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I'll try the vaseline tonight. Thanks for the tip.
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Old November 21st, 2009, 03:41 PM   #35
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Sweet! Thanks. Anyone know where to pick up a t-56 on the cheap?
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Old November 21st, 2009, 05:47 PM   #36
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So I found out I can get a 99-01 navigator rebuilt engine for the same price as the lightning engine...

I only plan on running 400rwhp but may one day decide to go more (like after I get a new car). I would like to get to 400rwhp as cheaply as possible ie. new pulley, exhaust, etc.

Decisions decisions...
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Old November 22nd, 2009, 01:17 AM   #37
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bump
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Old November 22nd, 2009, 11:36 AM   #38
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y did u bump it? its ur decision... u either want 2v or 4v. ur choice.
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Old November 22nd, 2009, 11:49 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by dcook_14 View Post
@OP, I don't think you're going to be able to drive both road courses/twisties and drift as well. I think (someone correct me if I'm wrong) that for drifting you want the front suspension softer than hell and the back suspension stiffer than hell. I wouldn't want to go diving into corners on a road course with a soft front suspension.
No, for a drift suspension you want it pretty equal all the way around. The suspension you've mentioned would be INCREDIBLY prone to oversteer, and that's actually not what you want in drift (you want very neutral handling, actually).

Originally Posted by dcook_14 View Post
Also if you're drifting, you're proabably going to want an aluminum block. Weight distribution is key for drifting and the Mustangs aren't the best in that department. That's why little 4 banger toyotas with 160 hp can out drift most cars, they are 50/50 weight balanced front to rear. Just some food for thought.
+eleventy-billion on the aluminum block. If you're doing anything but straight-lines, you want the best weight balance you can get. On top of that, less weight gives you better acceleration, braking, AND handling, and as double bonus your tires and brake pads will last longer.
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Old November 22nd, 2009, 02:30 PM   #40
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Liljojo, from the research I've done the 4v swap is much harder to do, and I haven't been able to find nearly as much info on it as I have the 2v I was bumping for some info on pros and cons of lightning vs. Navigator. But I did find out that the hp thresholds are the same so eitherway I would need to build the 5.4. Thanks anyways.
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