spec clutch?

97GT4.6 · December 10th, 2009, 09:34 PM

Originally Posted by Drgnracin72

with the stage 3, when id pull up to a light, i never sat there with the clutch pressed in. it would seriously make the ole leg start to hurt lol..... it also wasnt a lot of fun in stop in go traffic, as you couldnt slip it much at all. it was either on or off. i know i make it sound terrible, but it wasnt to bad, just nowhere near the same as stock or even the stage 2 spec.

That's exactly how my stage 1 is.. its extremely stiff.. i haven't driven another car with a stiffer clutch.. no one can drive it.. not the guy at the muffler shop, the body shop or anyone besides me and matt

Drgnracin72 · December 10th, 2009, 09:44 PM

the stage 1 clutches by specs are really the only specs that have problems. i dont know what the cause of it, but 95% of the problems you hear about specs are from the spec stage 1 clutch.

WannaBeGearHead · December 10th, 2009, 10:53 PM

^^^Yup I hear a lot of problems from the Stage 1s but not so much from the others.

Oh and your very lucky how long your tranny lasted with a Stage 3 and the power you were making.

competition orange · December 12th, 2009, 10:17 PM

do you think the spec 2+ would slip or would it grip causing tranny to blow if i hooked with stickys?

Barracuda · December 13th, 2009, 09:17 AM

This idea of wanting slip in a clutch versus max holding power is a double-edge sword...i inderstand the thought behind it but their is a bad side to it as well. If u have enough power to slip a clutch, u r now generating large amounts of HEAT which will kill a transmission over time (actually it's bad for the crankshaft bearings too) and contribute nicely to a warped flywheel and damage a pressure plate.
However.....why not considering buying a clutch that will definitely do the job (not slip) and just not launch the car like a full-blown track car? (my trans is holding up fine to alot of power this way) Bottom-Line is either build it right or drive it around how it's built...ur car is gonna last longer with the drive it right method.

casper gt · December 13th, 2009, 12:47 PM

don't exactly know what going to the track alot means to you but if your version of alot is anything like a bracket racer's version of alot (300 + passes a season) with that much power, screw the whole clutch thing & put a 4r70w in it, not only will the car be easier on parts & easier to drive, it'll be faster too.

December 10th, 2009, 09:44 PM	#22
Drgnracin72 I Post Entirely Way Too Much Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: somewhere in oklahoma Posts: 10,635 iTrader: 2 reviews	the stage 1 clutches by specs are really the only specs that have problems. i dont know what the cause of it, but 95% of the problems you hear about specs are from the spec stage 1 clutch. __________________ RIP ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end. One Big Ass Mistake America SHEEPDOGS

December 13th, 2009, 09:17 AM	#25
Barracuda Regular Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 95 iTrader: 0 reviews	This idea of wanting slip in a clutch versus max holding power is a double-edge sword...i inderstand the thought behind it but their is a bad side to it as well. If u have enough power to slip a clutch, u r now generating large amounts of HEAT which will kill a transmission over time (actually it's bad for the crankshaft bearings too) and contribute nicely to a warped flywheel and damage a pressure plate. However.....why not considering buying a clutch that will definitely do the job (not slip) and just not launch the car like a full-blown track car? (my trans is holding up fine to alot of power this way) Bottom-Line is either build it right or drive it around how it's built...ur car is gonna last longer with the drive it right method. __________________ 99' GT 5 Speed Stroked w/All forged Internals Vortech V2 Details in Garage 65' Plymouth Max Wedge Satellite (9.35 @ 154 all motor) 69' SuperBee- Stroked 500cu BB 05' Silverado/Duramax Mid 13's thanks to EFI LIVE Last edited by Barracuda; December 13th, 2009 at 09:26 AM.

December 13th, 2009, 12:47 PM	#26
casper gt Moderator 2012 300a gt auto 12.10@116 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: creighton pa Posts: 7,697 iTrader: 4 reviews	don't exactly know what going to the track alot means to you but if your version of alot is anything like a bracket racer's version of alot (300 + passes a season) with that much power, screw the whole clutch thing & put a 4r70w in it, not only will the car be easier on parts & easier to drive, it'll be faster too. __________________ MM BRACKET RACING CREW CO-FOUNDER BAMA Performance Drag Team Founder 2012 300a GT auto

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December 10th, 2009, 10:53 PM	#23
WannaBeGearHead Newbie 2000 Mustang GT Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Lincoln, NE Posts: 33 iTrader: 0 reviews	^^^Yup I hear a lot of problems from the Stage 1s but not so much from the others. Oh and your very lucky how long your tranny lasted with a Stage 3 and the power you were making.

December 12th, 2009, 10:17 PM	#24
competition orange Regular 2004 mustang gt Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: uniontown,pennslyvania Posts: 368 iTrader: 1 reviews	do you think the spec 2+ would slip or would it grip causing tranny to blow if i hooked with stickys?

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