[Justdoit04]

So I grabbed this really good deal on an long block that came out of a 01 GT. My mustang being a daily driver I finally have an opportunity to rebuild a motor. Anyone have any tips on how to get this project started? Design, performance posibbilities, things I should be weary of when working on the engine? I know there are rebuild kits out there maybe someone can point me to a reliable vendor. Thanks for your help guys.

[wishIhada5.0]

what are your end goals for the project?

[Justdoit04]

I'm a complete newb on this so end goals I haven't really factored what type of horsepower I want to draw from this engine or what additional tinkering with the rest of the car I'll have to do to accommodate for the engine rebuild ... Its my daily driver ... I'm not trying to hulk it out and I'm not going to be able to afford a supercharger to throw on it ... it was previously hooked up to a supercharged kit though

[wishIhada5.0]

ok...do you want to stay NA or do you look to go FI further on down the road when you can afford it?

[Justdoit04]

I'll probably FI down the road

[wishIhada5.0]

your gonna be lookin at forgetd internals and somewhat low compression then...

[BakerFX4]

Man.. i just ordered my rotating assembly from MMR and they are very cool guys. Mark (owner) is a super nice guy and their prices are already awesome but they will work with you on them if need be! Their are others but I got a great deal on my goods!

[Eagle2000GT]

Except for the rods and pistons our little motors are pretty solid. The block is good to 1000 hp. With only 60,000 miles it is possible that the cylinder walls aren't hurt so you might get away with honing the cylinders instead of boring them out. If you do not intend to go over 600 hp then you can use the stock crank and just add forged rods and pistons. You won't know what size until you tear down the motor and check the cylinder walls. I would go with the stock compression ratio. Be sure to get it balanced. It never hurts to port and polish the heads. You might select a cam that will work both n/a and FI and go with stronger valve springs so that you can spin the motor to 6500-7000 rpms. The stock intake is also good to around 600 hp. To get there, of course, you will have to go forced induction and that will require fuel system upgrades.

[BakerFX4]

eagle... sell me the 69 camaro man?

[Justdoit04]

Thanks for the info guys +1 to everyone ... the guy said he had the cylinder walls checked out by his shop and there was no defect on them ... he was going to use it for a rebuild but decided to go with an aluminum block instead

[dcook_14]

I'm with these guys. If you're going fi sometime, go with forged internals (I would do the crank just in case also) that have about 8.5 compression in the stock block. That'll do you for the bottom end.

For the top side
-get a nice P&P on your heads,MMR can do them for you
-get blower cams, they'll help a little when you're still N/A and then really shine when you get the blower
-get new valves and springs

I'd stick with the stock intake, tb and plenum until you go fi.

Might as well put on longtube headers while you have the engine out too.

[Eagle2000GT]

Originally Posted by BakerFX4 eagle... sell me the 69 camaro man?

I wish I still had it but I sold it a long time ago. It was bright orange with a black vinyl top, black racing strips and hide away headlights. It had a 350 ci/300 hp motor with a 4-speed transmission. It was a lot of fun to drive but it wasn't that fast. It ran low 15s @ 87 mph. Both my Dodge and my Mustang would have left it far, far behind.